2014 KW W9 Requiring Manual Regen Every Day!??

[Trucker Ron]

Hello, I just went owner/operator a month ago. I purchased a 2014 Kenworth W900B. It has so far, eaten me out of house and home, if you will...!!!

But from reading some posts on this site, I see that this emissions CRAP is doing the dirty deeds on a lot of us drivers trying to make some good money. :@

I have put about $6000 into this truck so far and see that another $20,000 will be needed and more down the line.

Let me get to the current issue and ten I can explain some things...

Currently, my truck has been requiring a manual regen between 300 - 400 miles. This for me is Every Day!! The cost for this is $200 - $300 every time, depending on who is doing it.

This in itself is stressing me out badly, not to mention all the other issues that it has.

HOW can I stop this issues dead in its tracks before I run it off a cliff and go back company?
(Not that I ever want to go company again) 8-/

I took the truck to Bosselman's in Utah and they put it on the computer and it had various Inactive faults and required manual regen. While it was in regen, they said all the data looked
good and DPF was good and they couldn't find anything wrong. They also checked the truck over and said nothing was wrong in this regard. THEN WHY THE HELL is it requiring a manual regen every freaking day??

I will say this...
I bought this truck blindly and had to put money down on it before seeing it or the dealer was going to send it to auction. At this point, I really WISHED he had sent it to the auction.

I worked as a company driver for Crete Carrier and they would Not give me time off to go look for a truck. I wanted a W9 and nothing else. I tried getting funding from MANY lenders and one came through for me and said they would loan me up to 60K. So, I searched the net high and low for 2 months. All I found were heavily used trucks with beat up interiors and over a million miles.

Then...
I was about to give up (wished I had, now...) and then one day I took another look at the Truck Paper online and this truck came up. It looked super nice, like it had just rolled off the showroom floor! The interior was also spotless. So I thought... the mechanical's had to have been taken care of , as well. Well... NOT the case and didn't find this out until AFTER I put 15k down on the truck. The dealer said I could walk away from the truck but he takes 10% of the price. This dealer which I WILL mention, in hopes others will stay AWAY from is: BJ Truck Sales out of Farley, Iowa who is also SIMON Trucking.

I had a Crete mechanic go through the truck and he told me this truck looked like it sat in water for a couple of years. Everything underneath is so rusted out. But the dealer took it and painted the entire under carriage gloss black, covering up a lot of issues.

One thing this truck has got going for itself is it was a heavy haul spec'ed truck with dual walled frame. So, the rust it has is not really a factor for the frame. But other things it is.

The mechanic told me the tranny is so rusted out that he recommended I get a reman and install it with a brand new clutch, that it needs.

The biggest BUMMER about this truck is it has 430 gears in the pumpkins! 1750 rpm's at 65 mph!! I had asked the Jerk sales guy several times over the phone to tell me the gear ratio... he would always try to blow it off and one time he said he didn't know. When I finally arrived to see the truck I saw in the door jam it said 4:30 gear ratio. What an A$$ to keep that from me!
But he IS the "Classic Used Car Salesman" that everyone knows about or has experienced at one time or another.

This story goes much deeper... but I really need to fix the issues quickly, especially this regen issue of I'm going to have to shut the doors on my O/O adventure.

I'm currently getting 4.5 mpg and ranges up to 5.0 if I drive it well and not go through the mountains with heavy loads. But Crete keeps giving me 40,000 pound or more loads. Though THAT is also a problem. I usually end up over weight and have to take to a terminal to t-call the load. I almost got caught one time though the spirits were looking down on me and the weigh station was Closed (which is rare for this weigh station). I was 4000 pounds over when I got to a CAT scale to weigh!! So now I told Crete NO loads over 40k or I will need to leave. They don't like that.

Not to mention, I'm running 11R 24.5" tires and makes the trailer sit up higher. I try to stay on the interstates as much as possible and ALWAYS watch the bridge signs for height.

I want to swap gears eventually and put 24.5" Low Pros on.


Well, I will leave it at this for now... PLEASE help me get this truck running without all these regen's so I can actually MAKE some money! I told Crete, who I ended up leasing on to that I am now going into indefinite home-time as I will NOT take this truck back out until I get it working correctly. But I cannot sit for too long as I am running low on funds. 8-/

[Nostalgic]

Seriously?

[Lonestar10]

You bought a w9 to do $1.25 van/reefer freight that's the first sign you did 0 research. You are doomed from the start to make less than cretes company drivers that are making 60c a mile + benefits and 401k. I worked for Crete at north Platte Walmart DC so I'm not pulling anything out my ass.

As far as the regens you most likely have exhaust leaks before dpf, all the sensors on the truck probably need to be replaced imap, egr delta pressure, exhaust back pressure, nox, dpf delta pressure.

Your going to be better off going back company otr or Walmart dedicated than trying to run a heavy haul w9 even if it's running right.

You would have been better off going upstairs in Lincoln by the driver's lounge and talked to the boys and bought one of their 30-40k cascadia or prostars that get 7-8mpg all day long plus they give a 2year drive train warranty.

[Waterloo]

A gallon of gasoline and a Zippo is in order...

[Chamberpains]

I don't wanna kick you while your down or watch people dog pile on you but Unfortunately Trucker Ron, you have made every wrong decision in getting in to the O/O racket and you need an eye opening wake up call. Lonestar10 isn't wrong in the least for what he said. I know your trying to salvage what you can in this venture but you built the foundation of your business in quicksand in the middle of a rainforest and the pit is only gonna get deeper and deeper.

You need to take some time and read very carefully everything in Rawze's book http://rawze.com/book

Take notes, re read everything, compare everything he writes to the decisions you made and are continually making. You need to see your in a losing fight and have all the wrong skills and equipment to even start to fight back. Rawze is leased to a company very similar to the one you are leased to. (A successful big fleet pulling van freight) so as you read the book and learn, keep in mind what you are reading about is your competition and a guy that is very successful in the type of trucking you're doing. It is an "apples to apples" comparison.

I want to help. But I dont see how starting to get your equipment in to decent shape (which I believe is a flood vehicle from a hurricane and is gonna be NOTHING but problems and should be scrapped) is going to fix this for you. My recommendation for your situation is to hit the brakes hard on what path your walking. Take a step back from what your doing and realize your best chance at not going in to complete financial ruin is finding the best exit strategy from this truck. Salvaging what money you can, probably going back to a company position and rebuilding your capital, finding the PROPER equipment to compete in the market you choose and getting a good start on much more solid ground.

Hopefully Rawze's book will help you see what needs to be done and hopefully the great people on this site can give sound advice to you get you out from under this mess. Remember theres always a chance that you can restart someday but if you hang tight to this truck I believe your gonna drown with it.

[Rawze]

YOUR PROBLEM IS NOT YOUR TRUCK -- YOUR PROBLEM IS YOU AND YOUR ENDLESS NUMBER OF BAD DECISIONS!!!!!
and if you do not wake the he@ll up and start coming back to reality real fast, then you are better off going back as a company driver.

-- You have squarely placed yourself in that well known 85%-bracket of first time owner-ops who loose their arsse and do nothing but struggle because of bad decision after bad decision after bad decision. <- this is exactly what you have done to yourself. This is what I see in your post so that you, and others in the future that find this place can learn from it. You can choose to piss it away, argue it and keep that head in the sand and keep making bad decisions,.. or you can take it seriously and lean something. -- SO FAR, you have been living in some kind of pipe dream world of a business model it seems. This does not fly in trucking. There is no room in trucking for "what I want (for whatever stupid reason)" vs... "What is going to make me a decent profit". Especially as your first truck... especially if you do not know what the hell you are doing,. and this is clearly the case. Someone has to be some kind of lunatic to even think so, because what is the number one complaint in trucking these days? --- "RATES ARE AS LOW AS EVER, PROFIT MARGINS ARE RAZOR THIN, AND IT IS HERE TO STAY". This ALONE should have told you that you needed to get whatever crack-pipe smoke you had in your head cleared up because owning a fuel-sucking pig of a truck (A W900 ANTIQUE'S ROAD SHOW OF A FUEL SUCKING TRUCK THAT DOES NOT BELONG ON THE HIGHWAYS HAULING LOW-RENT FREIGHT ) -- THIS ALONE WILL LEAVE YOU BROKE ALL THE DAMN TIME AND WITHOUT ANY KIND OF DECENT PROFITS!

-- Does not matter how it is spec'd ... does not matter how hard you try, you will never get that thing to compete in the dry/reefer markets very well. Even those who do it the right ways do not make nearly the profits they should or could be,.. and for someone starting out who knows nothing about truck ownership -- >> they have less than zero chance!.

At best, they will struggle compared to any of their peers with that pig of a truck. - That truck belongs off-roads hauling logs or in a museum with a caption on it saying "HERE IS HOW TO MAKE THE OIL COMPANIES RICH AND BE A CHROME ADDICTED DUMBARSSE IN TRUCKING!" -- That is what it screams to everyone that actually knows better these days.

-- I see someone with a truck like that pulling a drybox or reefer trailer and I LAUGH MY ARSSE OFF AT THEM AS THEY GO BY!--- it is that ridiculous!--<- That alone was, and still IS your BIGGEST AND FIRST MISTAKE!!!

"If your trying to win the war... you buy a big-ole fuel-sucking armoured Bradley-tank ... If your trying to squeeze a profit out of a washed out trucking market ... you buy a light weight, good on fuel, aero, etcc. vehicle ... BUT YOU DO NOT BUY A LIGHT WEIGHT VEHICLE TO FIGHT A WAR, AND YOU DO NOT BUY AN ARMY TANK TO SQUEEZE OUT PROFITS!!! " --- This is exactly what you did!.-- and the dry/reefer, flatbed and every other market at 80,000 lbs or less --- IS A RACE TO SEE HOW MUCH FUEL YOU CAN SAVE! ... NOT HOW GOOD YOU CAN LOOK,.. NOT HOW MUCH ITS WORTH IN 20 MORE YEARS B'CAUSE SOME OTHER IDIOT WHO IS JUST AS DUMB WANTS IT TOO, ... NOT HOW FAST YOU CAN GO... NOT ANY OF THAT!!!"

Here is the breakdown based on what you have said so far...

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  Hello, I just went owner/operator a month ago. I purchased a 2014 Kenworth W900B. It has so far, eaten me out of house and home, if you will...!!!

.. I wanted a W9 and nothing else...

... I bought this truck blindly ...

Do I even need to point out all these mistakes again?. - For the life of me I cannot figure out why people are so hell bent on owning the least profitable truck on the roads in the 80,000 lb markets ... Then complain like hell they cannot make ends meet because if crappy fuel mileage. - Hell, even the people who re-spec these trucks for all they are worth and get every last drop of fuel to count in them,.. BARELY MAKE DECENT PROFITS... so someone new who is not versed in trucking beyond holding the steering wheel and checking their oil on occasion... THEY HAVE ZERO-NEGATIVE CHANCE OF GETTING ANYWHERE, does not matter how healthy that truck is, or what shape it is in.

-- NEXT--- WHO THE HE#LL BUYS USED CARS,... NONETHELESS A USED TRUCK BLINDLY!!???=== HEY--> I GOT A USED HOUSE TO SELL YOU TOO!-- ONLY $500,000,000 dollars,.. but you gotta wear blindfolds while your living inside it... otherwise you might accidentally be disappointed at it,.. and I would not want you to feel bad, disrupt that complete fantasy you are living in.

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  ... The biggest BUMMER about this truck is it has 430 gears in the pumpkins! 1750 rpm's at 65 mph!! I had asked the Jerk sales guy ... saw in the door jam it said 4:30 gear ratio. What an A$$ to keep that from me!

...I'm running 11R 24.5" tires ...

... I want to swap gears eventually and put 24.5" Low Pros on. ...

-- I need to address this specifically...

FIRST AND FOREMOST--- 4:30 gearing IS NOT NEARLY YOUR PROBLEMS AT ALL,.. NOT ONE GODDAMN BIT!!!!!! --- That is actually a decent spec for a truck,.. HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO BET THAT IF I PUT THOSE REARS IN MY PROSTAR THAT I WOULD NOT LOOSE ANY FUEL MILEAGE.... BUT IN FACT IT WOULD LIKELY GAIN A FEW TENTHS!!!???!!!--- THOSE REARS ARE NOT YOUR PROBLEM!

Optimum for dry/reefer freight is in the typical range of 3.90's - 3.70's. (3.55's is pushing it) Anything much taller that (3.36,, 3.27, 3.08, 2.79, or other ridiculous things), and the truck looses fuel mileage big-time vs. a driver that knows how to drive a truck correctly towards high fuel efficiency. - Going below 3.90's (4.11, 4.36's, etc) .. you fall outside of the optimal is actually not nearly as bad. Would depend on if your running most of your miles in the 60~63ish mph range, or if your a local driver with a lot of stop and go (where 4.36's would be much better than say 3.70's) or if you are a moron and trying to go 65+ all the time everywhere you go with a square-nose truck out of sheer stupidity, and have gears set for the 60-62mph range (3.90, or 4.11's). 4.30's would be the 55-60 mph range and you can make a damned decent profit and dammed decent fuel mileage with those rears, even at 60-62 mph when needed. this is especially considering hauling the heavier end of the dry/reefer loads that are 80,000 lbs all the time. - If your usually heavy like that, those 4.36's, although a bit tall, are still dammed profitable, and over time WILL MAKE THAT ENGINE LAST A LOT LONGER, and this will also make you more profitable long term due to the engine lasting possibly 20-30% longer than it normally would have because your not lugging the snot out of it below 1500rpm's. This is however dependent on how lazy (or not) you are at shifting gears, etc.

<<= that is not opinion .. that is reality .. Take it from someone who busts every bit of 8.5 - 9.0 mpg with 80,000 lbs of Nestle water loads in and out of those damn tall arsse Pennsylvanian hill country about every other week along I-70.

-- You can believe the droves of idiots on social medai, the morons at the truck stop lounge,.. or you can listen to those who are ahead of the pack and have figured it out the right ways,.. (the people on here trying to help you open your eyes). => Your choice. -- TALL REARS ARE FOR SAVING FUEL AGAINST THE TENS OF THOUSANDS OF MORON COMPANY DRIVERS WHO ONLY KNOW HOW TO HOLD THE FUEL PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR!!! -- but they vastly hurt the fuel mileage and the engine's longevity, when comparing it to someone who drives a truck for high fuel efficiency and high profitability. Spec'ing the truck with decent rears for the application and driving it the right ways FAR FAR EXCEEDS spec'ing it for a moron (tall rears) who cannot drive the truck right, is too lazy to shift gears properly, and holds their foot to the floor all day long against that speed governor or that cruise control like a complete idiot.

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  ... But from reading some posts on this site, I see that this emissions CRAP is doing the dirty deeds on a lot of us drivers trying to make some good money. :@

I have put about $6000 into this truck so far and see that another $20,000 will be needed and more down the line.

Let me get to the current issue and ten I can explain some things...

Currently, my truck has been requiring a manual regen between 300 - 400 miles. This for me is Every Day!! The cost for this is $200 - $300 every time, depending on who is doing it.
...
I took the truck to Bosselman's in Utah and they put it on the computer and it had various Inactive faults and required manual regen. While it was in regen, they said all the data looked
good and DPF was good and they couldn't find anything wrong. They also checked the truck over and said nothing was wrong in this regard. THEN WHY THE HELL is it requiring a manual regen every freaking day??

...

.. This screams at me that you have taken ZERO STEPS towards truck ownership.. It screams that you are still a company driver with a company driver mindset.

-- For about $300 bucks or so off e-bay and a used laptop... YOU COULD HAVE SAVE ALL THOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS!!!!.. -- ONE OF THE MAIN ADVANTAGES OF BEING AN OWNER-OPERATORS in today's trucking,,.. IS NOT RUNNING OFF TO AN EXPENSIVE REPAIR SHOP EVERY TIME YOU GET A PROBLEM!!!-- WHAT THE HELL WERE YOU THINKING!!!___???? --- LEARN TO GRAB A FREGGIN' WRENCH... LEARN HOW TO WORK ON THAT THING AND LEARN TO TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR OWN PROBLEMS!!!

HERE IS YOUR STARTING POINT: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=7

and BTW: STOP listening to the droves of moron mechanic(s) who keep telling you there is nothing wrong. THEY ARE JUST AS STUPID! and just as severely under-trained as the idiot mechanics at the truck stealers$its. -- GRAB A WRENCH AND START CLEANING THE SYSTEM OUT and get it back into decent shape! -- <- If you cannot learn to make that pig of a truck run half-way right,.. low profit margin or not -- THEN NO OTHER TRUCK IS GOING TO BE ANY BETTER FOR YOU BECAUSE YOU WILL STILL NOT KNOW HOW TO OWN A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT PROPERLY!

Do you seriously think that I would have those issues?-- Do you seriously think that I would not been able to turn a profit with that thing if I had to?-- Do you think I would be struggling with it? -- NOPE,.. NOT ONE DAMN BIT!!!! -- (I would not own it because there are far more profitable trucks out there).. but IF I CAN MAKE IT WORK,.. THEN SO CAN ANYONE ELSE IF THEY SIMPLY EDUCATE THEMSELVES,.. GET OFF THEIR ARSSE... AND GET DIRTY!!! - That is what truck ownership is all about.

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  -- I had a Crete mechanic go through the truck and he told me this truck looked like it sat in water for a couple of years. Everything underneath is so rusted out.

... mechanic told me the tranny is so rusted out that he recommended I get a reman and install
...

Well,.. at this point you should well know who;s 100% fault that is. IT IS NOT THE DEALERS,... IT IS NOT THE PPL THAT SIOLD IT,.. IT IS THE PERSON WHO WAS BLIND AND DID NOT LOOK PAST THE GLEE AND CHROME AND THE INTERRIOR --- YOU KNOW THOSE THINGS THAT DO NOT MATTER ONE GODDAMN BIT TOWARDS ACTUALLY MAKING A LIVING AND TURNING A HALF-DECENT PROFIT WITH LOW-RENT FREIGHT!!!

And then to make it even worse -- YOU SEEM TO HAVE THIS HABIT OF SHOVING YOUR PROBLEMS OFF ONTO SOMEONE ELSE FOR AN OPINION AND QUICK-FIXES INSTEAD OF TAKING THE TIME TO LEARN HOW TO INSPECT AND SOLVE THE ISSUES PROPERLY YOURSELF!!!- and according to your posts,.. you seem to be hell bent on explaining you took it to this and that person and shop and another person and mechanic after place after place,.. like a blind man, then wondering why you have all the problems that you do. -- Owning a used truck does not work like that!.. Hell,.. owning a brand goddamn new truck these days does not work like that either! -- Only thing that works like that is being a company driver and making all your issues someone else's headaches when things go south.

STOP SHOVING YOUR PROBLEMS OFF ONTO EVERYONE ELSE AND START TAKING YOUR PROBLEMS HEAD ON AND SOLVING THEM --- YOURSELF -- OR GO BACK TO BEING A COMPANY DRIVER!!!

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  ...
This story goes much deeper... but I really need to fix the issues quickly, especially this regen issue of I'm going to have to shut the doors on my O/O adventure.
...

-- You are the only one who can "fix these issues quickly" because the problem is MOSTLY YOU!. Your equipment and your situation is the direct result of this, so don't blame the equipment,,.. blame yourself!.

GRAB A FREGGIN' WRENCH AND GO AT IT!

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  I'm currently getting 4.5 mpg and ranges up to 5.0 if I drive it well and not go through the mountains with heavy loads. But Crete keeps giving me 40,000 pound or more loads. Though THAT is also a problem.

Your fuel mileage is typical of a poorly spec'd fuel sucking pig of a truck, especially for someone who does not know how to drive it properly. I haul heavier loads all day long,.. AND IF YOU THINK THAT ANY COMPANY NONETHELESS A MEGA-FLEET IS GOING TO GIVE YOU LIGHT LOADS THEN YOU ARE SMOKING CRACK-PIPES!!... THAT IS THEIR JOB--- GIVE THE HEAVIER, LESS PROFITABLE STUFF TO THE O/O'S AND USE THE COMPANY TRUCKS FOR ALL THE HIGHER PROFIT LEADS... THAT IS WHAT THEY ARE TRAINED TO DO!!!-- AND IF YOU WERE THE COMPANY OWNER, YOU WOULD TELL YOUR DISPATCHERS TO DO THE SAME -- THAT IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM!!! -- COMPLAINING ABOUT IT IS YOUR OWN IGNORANCE AND IF YOU DID NOT SPEC YOU TRUCK TO DEAL WITH THIS PROPERLY BEFORE BUYING IT THEN WHO'S FAULT IS THAT>??? -- LOOK IN THE MIRROR!

-- I am in exactly this same boat... I haul for the mega-fleets too.. They give me all the loads that they loose money on -- AND I TAKE THEM AND SMILE AND TURN A DAMMED DECENT PROFIT ON THEM, them scratching their heads as to how the hell I do it. (and if one man can do it... so can another. I am not unique, not one bit).

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  ... I usually end up over weight and have to take to a terminal to t-call the load. I almost got caught one time though the spirits were looking down on me and the weigh station was Closed (which is rare for this weigh station). I was 4000 pounds over when I got to a CAT scale to weigh!! So now I told Crete NO loads over 40k or I will need to leave. They don't like that.

if your over-weight, your truck is spec'd incorrectly, is too heavy for the dry/reefer market, is rusted out, is on dire straights, has tall rubber on it (has horrible 24.5's instead of some fuel savings tires), and all things are against you ... AND you have taken zero steps towards getting on top of any of it... IT WOULD BE A LOT CHEAPER TO GIVE UP THE TRUCK AND GO BACK TO BEING A COMPANY DRIVER FOR ANOTHER YEAR OR 2 AND LEAR HOW TO ACTUALLY OWN AND SPEC A TRUCK PROPERLY INSTEAD OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE!.

NO truck repair is going to save you from yourself and your serious lack of education. ONLY YOU CAN FIX THAT!.

Could you make what you already have work properly?-- You could. It would be a serious uphill battle. You will have to start by grabbing some wrenches, buying some tools like a laptop and an adapter, etc. and taking your problems into your own hands like a proper truck owner should,.. you will have to also learn how to drive that truck properly for high fuel economy (driving by boost gauge and pyro gauge and slowing the f#uvck down to 60 mph like you should be doing), etc. to help you get on top of it. You will need to start investing IN YOURSELF AND YOU ABILITIES TOWARDS TRUCK OWNERSHIP real fast. -- If your not willing to do all of this,. then please do yourself a favor .. go back to being a company driver and NEVER EVER LOOK AT OWNING YOUR OWN TRUCK AGAIN because owning trucks these days ACTUALLY TAKES A LOT OF EFFORT FAR BEYOND HOLDING THAT STEERING WHEEL AND RUSHING OFF TO EVERY SHOP WHEN THERE IS A PROBLEM!

THIS WHOLE RANT is not to pick on you .. IT IS TO BRING AWARENESS to help educate anyone who may be just about to buy that first truck and hopefully not END UP ON THIS SAME BAD ROAD you have found yourself on.

Either taking steps to get out from under that truck and either go back as company driver, or put a whole lot more research into how to properly own, inspect, drive for better fuel savings, etc.. invest in the tools needed to own, wrench on, and maintain a modern truck with emissions systems on them, or .. to try to start that uphill battle with what you already have...

* Ordering a win7 laptop from a local used computer store.

* Ordering an inline-6 adapter kit off e-bay.

* Invest in a decent set of wrenches and sockets if you do not already own them.

While waiting for the adapter...

* Grabbing some wrenches and pulling apart every damn egr pipe and sensor and such and cleaning them the hell out, replacing the IMAP, egr Delta-P, and exhaust bp sensors.

* Cleaning or replacement of the Doser injector, DPF delat-P sensor and tubing, etc.

* Pulling the DOC and DPF off that thing yourself,.. taking pics of their faces, posting them here and then taking them to stealers$it for about $300 or so to have them baked, flow tested, de-ashed,.. etc.

* thourough inspection of the decomp tube, def filete screens, def injector, SCR element face, etc.

* Replacing the guts of the fuel pump of the engine has more then 400k miles on it.

*Weighing the truck to see what you can actually carry for weights with it if still not known.

* Installing cheap set of aftermarket pyro and boost gauges if they are not already in the dash.

* Learning how to drive it properly and by your boost and pyro gauges + keepinf it below 62 mph, and refusing any load that required more than 600 miles per driving shift (per driver). (or at least negotiating delivery times to compensate this).

-- And a whole lot more after that as you go along. Eventually you could get there, but it will not be easy at all.

[Trucker Ron]

Crete only paid me .50 per mile and a .01 cent reduction for having an animal on the truck. The ONLY guys making that are the long timers with Crete. Not sure where you get your info from... but I know guys there that have been driving 27 years and getting .48 per mile.

Even with my poor fuel economy, I've been making about $1500 a week net. I wanted a W9 and that's WHY I went owner/op. I don't plan to stay with Crete, I leased on due to knowing how the company runs as a company driver and once I get a little owner/op under my belt I am going elsewhere. Maybe Landstar. There are three other owner/op's running W9's, as well... not to mention Pete 379's and 389's and Freightliner Classic trucks (not sure of models). So, I am Not of the few.

Anyway, I need help with solving the regen, Not replys trying to make me look like a fool. Thank you. I am single with no kids and no personal bills. I can do it.

[Rawze]

There is well known guy on youtube, he used to own a truck that was busting every bit of 9+ mpg. -- He got the big-nose truck fever and traded in what he had for a flying brick. - He lost 2.4+ mpg even after all the mods and never got it back hauling the same exact freight. - Took a huge hit to his wallet and its tens of thousands of lost revenue per year / toll on his family income. They brag about their looks and the chrome and all the glamor and glory of it all like it is something to be proud of. -- I tend to disagree and would rather brag about how much money I kept in my wallet instead. It no longer has a place in trucking any more. The rates simply do not have wiggle room in them for this kind of thinking any more.

Save your chrome and bragging and "but it has higher trade-in value" BS money-losing excuses... this way of thinking is worthless in today's market.. GO BUY A SPORTS CAR if you want something fast that you can brag about... and keep the money-loss-glory-factor separated from the career you feed your family with.

[Rawze]

(03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote:  

(03-15-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  

Crete only paid me .50 per mile and a .01 cent reduction for having an animal on the truck. The ONLY guys making that are the long timers with Crete. Not sure where you get your info from... but I know guys there that have been driving 27 years and getting .48 per mile.

Even with my poor fuel economy, I've been making about $1500 a week net. I wanted a W9 and that's WHY I went owner/op. I don't plan to stay with Crete, I leased on due to knowing how the company runs as a company driver and once I get a little owner/op under my belt I am going elsewhere. Maybe Landstar. There are three other owner/op's running W9's, as well... not to mention Pete 379's and 389's and Freightliner Classic trucks (not sure of models). So, I am Not of the few.

Anyway, I need help with solving the regen, Not replys trying to make me look like a fool. Thank you. I am single with no kids and no personal bills. I can do it.

I guess some people do not want advice that will actually help them and get them pointed in a positive direction. - What a waste.


Lets see now...

* Asking about low fuel mileage is expected from a truck no spec'd for the market your in.
* Complaining that no one is solving the issues, but no info towards taking matters into your own hands properly.

* Pointing out that a lot of mistakes were made during purchase, but suddenly having a poorly epec'd truck that is in not so good shape is all somehow ok because you have idiot friends that running down the roads with horrible-spec equipment makes it all ok too? . not going to fly in my book, I don't care if you have a fleet of 1,000 of the wrong spec'd trucks .. it is still bad business.

-- It was clear from the beginning that all this guy wants is likely a delete for his truck... BUT A DELETE WILL NOT SOLVE YOUR PROBLEMS!!!! -- SORRY TO SAY IT --- BUT THIS IS NOT A DELETE FORUM!!!.

and LASTLY--- I TOLD YOU WHAT TO START WITH if you wanted to take that hard road towards solving it best you can -- MAYBE YOU DID NOT READ IT!?

I will repeat it just in case you did not see it...

Rawze Wrote:* Ordering a win7 laptop from a local used computer store.

* Ordering an inline-6 adapter kit off e-bay.

* Invest in a decent set of wrenches and sockets if you do not already own them.

While waiting for the adapter...

* Grabbing some wrenches and pulling apart every damn egr pipe and sensor and such and cleaning them the hell out, replacing the IMAP, egr Delta-P, and exhaust bp sensors.

* Cleaning or replacement of the Doser injector, DPF delat-P sensor and tubing, etc.

* Pulling the DOC and DPF off that thing yourself,.. taking pics of their faces, posting them here and then taking them to stealers$it for about $300 or so to have them baked, flow tested, de-ashed,.. etc.

* thourough inspection of the decomp tube, def filete screens, def injector, SCR element face, etc.

* Replacing the guts of the fuel pump of the engine has more then 400k miles on it.

*Weighing the truck to see what you can actually carry for weights with it if still not known.

* Installing cheap set of aftermarket pyro and boost gauges if they are not already in the dash.

* Learning how to drive it properly and by your boost and pyro gauges + keepinf it below 62 mph, and refusing any load that required more than 600 miles per driving shift (per driver). (or at least negotiating delivery times to compensate this).

-- And a whole lot more after that as you go along. Eventually you could get there, but it will not be easy at all.

YOU OWN YOUR EQUIPMENT -- STOP ALLOWING IT TO OWN YOU!!!

NOW GET OFF YOUR ARSSE AND WORK TOWARDS THIS OR GO SOMEWHERE ELSE TO COMPLAIN AND PUSH YOUR PROBLEMS OFF ONTO.. BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLACE ON THIS FORUM FOR PEOPLE WHO DO NOT WANT TO BETTER THEIR SITUATION IN GENUINE WAYS AND START DOING THINGS THE RIGHT WAYS FOR THEMSELVES INSTEAD OF MAKING LAME EXCUSES TRYING TO JUSTIFY BAD DECISIONS!


... The movie "Smokey and the Bandit" (or any of the other trucker movies) is NOT an instructional video on how to own or drive a truck!.