Lubricating oil pump service life?

[JMBT]

Has anyone heard the expected service life of the ISX lubricating oil pump?

[Signature620]

I've never heard or seen anything about their expected life.

They tend to get noisy with age as the internal idler shaft wears and the gear lash changes Or they produce abnormal pressures due to chaffing of the regulator spring against the body.

I would suggest inspecting them if the oil pan is ever removed but not just replace it for good measure - They last a long time.

[JMBT]

CM2250 764K, So i have removed my oil pump. It is amazingly clean, no soot or gunk in any of the crevices on the case. The pump is clearly marked with a #4 from the factory. When I check the backlash between the drive and idler gears it shows .009, quickserve says a #4 should have .012-.018.

What would make the backlash get tighter?? Mine would only be in-spec if it were a #2 per quickserve.

Another strange thing upon inspecting. The drive gear shaft is supposed to protrude past the gear .003-.006. Mine appears to be flush?

I had no problems with oil pressure when I tore it down.

[Signature620]

You measure the gear lash between the crank and the top gear of the oil pump. Not between the 2 gears of the pump.

[JMBT]

Thanks for the response man, quickserve shows when inspecting the pump off the motor to measure between the two gears on the pump for a result, then after mounting on the motor measuring as you said between the crank and top gear. the measurement off the motor is supposed to correlate with a chart on quickserve based on what number is stamped on the pump. Also the drive gear shaft measurement is throwing me off??

My brother says just put it back on and run it, but I want to make sure it's ok.

[Mattman]

JMBT. Was there a reason you had the oil pan off? Probably a good idea to replace rod and main bearings while you are at it, if they are original.

[JMBT]

(03-24-2020 )Mattman Wrote:  JMBT. Was there a reason you had the oil pan off? Probably a good idea to replace rod and main bearings while you are at it, if they are original.

Mattman, I just pulled it off to change the rods and mains. Rawze recommends 800K, I am at 764K and had the time. Plus knowing the first 600K was with the soot monster in tact, I thought it would be ready. However from what I have seen, I am thinking of putting it back together and pulling it down again at 1 million??

[Waterloo]

(03-24-2020 )JMBT Wrote:  

(03-24-2020 )Mattman Wrote:  JMBT. Was there a reason you had the oil pan off? Probably a good idea to replace rod and main bearings while you are at it, if they are original.

Mattman, I just pulled it off to change the rods and mains. Rawze recommends 800K, I am at 764K and had the time. Plus knowing the first 600K was with the soot monster in tact, I thought it would be ready. However from what I have seen, I am thinking of putting it back together and pulling it down again at 1 million??

You are risking ventilating the block when one of the wrist pins fail. Replace the bearings, and throw in a new oil pump seeing as you are in there and be done with it.

[Signature620]

At the very least, inspect the lower #4 main bearing. It's the first journal to see oil so it will show any signs of contaminated oil.