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JimT

Ok, got a bunch of small, random questions, figured I'd drop them all in one thread. Maybe others can benefit from the information too. Trying to think of and ask questions now, before I start taking things apart. In no particular order:

(2012 Pete 587 cm2250)

* Doing my own oil/filter change and lube job for the first time soon. Just wondering what tools or supplies I might need. (Besides oil/filters/grease and buckets!) Either required items or things/tools that others have found handy or useful.

* Whats the consensus? Prefill oil and/or fuel filters or not? I know it's been discussed before, but my memory is fuzzy.

* Planning to drop the oil pan, inspect the bottom end, clean up and repaint the pan. Do I need a new, replacement gasket or is it a reusable gasket?

* What things should I look for while the pan is down?

* I want to add temp sensors/gauges for both diffs and the tranny. why? because I don't like guessing and want to make sure I can catch any potential problems before they get bad. So, suggestions for brands of gauges and locations to install them on the diffs/trans? i saw glowshift has a few combo gauges that might work nicely to save space.

* I'm replacing my front (steer) springs (yes, new u-bolts too). Looks pretty simple. Any tips, tricks or videos to help out? They are unpainted, anybody have preferences on paint to use? I have some generic chassis black spray paint laying around.

* Front (steer) shocks are almost 2 years old, no signs of oil leaks. They do need new bushings, which I have. Should I just replace the shocks when I do the springs or just do the bushings? What's the typical lifespan? I don't have a lot of spare money (saving up for an inframe), but if they're due to be replaced soon then now would be the time.

* Oil pressure sensor: It's very hard to see, but it appears I'm leaking oil from the oil pressure sensor. Nothing is hitting the ground, but the starter looks pretty wet, which is how I noticed it. Does this need to be replaced while the oil is drained or can it be done at any time? Also, how the !@#$ do you get back there without removing (in my case) the davco, the fuel filter, the ECM, a ton of wires and, in a perfect world, I'd move the frame rail too! (yeah, I know, thats not gonna happen ;) )

I'm sure there's other things I'm forgetting...

Waterloo

Oil change, big filter wrench is required... I have done the math on this, it is cheaper to go to TA or Speedco, it is not a pretty process... I will never attempt that again. Just not worth it.

I own a grease gun, and that is as far as I will go personally on a PM.

Filters, pre fill, I did, and it was messy.

Oil pan, one time use, and they are not cheap.

Pan is down, not much to look for other than metal, unless you want to remove the bearings and inspect the crank. If you have no reason to pull the pan, like low oil pressure, I would not. But, if you are a glutton for punishment, have at it.

The diff sensors, at the bottom of the pig, about three or four inches from the actual bottom. No clue on gauges, any that are of quality should work. I have GlowShift, replaced a few, not impressed. The best gauges I have owned ar VDO. For what it is worth.

Front springs, if they are deformed, replace. If the bushings are good, why replace? I would leave it alone until it is time, unless you have one million miles or more, then just do the entire front end, king pins, bushings, etc. I plan to do exactly that as a PM, just need to make some money.

Shocks, two years, replace, I use Monroe, they are fine, come with bushings. I buy mine at FleetPride, cheaper than Amazon or any internet retailer.

Oil pressure sensor, pull fuel filter and replace. I believe it is 27 ftlbs of torque on the bolt. Also replace the crank and cam sensor while you are at it. Inspect the Jake brake harness for leaks too. If it is showing signs of weeping, use RTV to seal it up, this will require popping the top... Easy fix, and it works.

Meanwhile

From 2000 to 2008 I worked for a guy who did all of his truck work and I'd help him on the weekends. Now I'm trying to remember how to do a lot of things. I never planned of buying a truck so taking a company job, I did a big "Memory Dump".

I was taught to prefill the filters. We also used a punch to put a hole in the bottom of the filters to drain what we could before pulling them off. A small bucket or a large coffee can usually caught everything.

I put a quick release drain plug in my oil pan so that I could drain it into buckets or jugs easier until I can get a big enough drain pan.

I too have the 2250 and I cannot get a full fuel filter between the engine and frame rail without spilling fuel. (I should've checked that before I tried)

Chamberpains

1. pressure test coolant system up to 20 psi leave it sit for awhile. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times to check for coolant running/dripping from anywhere on the bottom end.

2. Jack the steer tire just high enough to get it off the ground by a hair. Then unbolt and replace the springs. It allows you to roll the axle around a bit to line things up with the hangers when reassembling.

3. Coroseal and por15 are the go to on this site for painting and sealing rusty stuff and stuff you want a permanent seal coat on.

4. Oil pan gaskets are reusable. Except when monkeys hammer them down with an impact gun and squish the gasket in to oblivion.

Waterloo

Be careful with the oil pan gasket... Been there and done that, especially if it has been on for awhile... por15 may not be the best thing to use on metal, it locks in the rust and does not allow the metal to breathe. I say that after researching undercoat treatments for a vehicle I was looking to purchase... I learned quite a bit. Personally, I would not use por15 on rusted or blemished metal, and I have, and it is ugly... Just saying. Coraseal, yes.

JimT

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Oil change, big filter wrench is required... I have done the math on this, it is cheaper to go to TA or Speedco, it is not a pretty process... I will never attempt that again. Just not worth it.

I own a grease gun, and that is as far as I will go personally on a PM.

With Landstar's discount at TA it usually costs me $300 after tax for their "Ultimate PM". With $12/gal delo from walmart, all filters and such it's pretty much break even to do it myself. Biggest reason right now is because I want to drop the oil pan. I started hearing a random 'tink' sound recently, can't say where it's coming from, could just be metal warming up or something externally bouncing around in the breeze from the engine fan. Or it could be something more serious. I did have one of the old ceramic plungers in my fuel pump shrink in size prior to learning about and rebuilding it last year. Either way I'd rather inspect than assume. Figure it can't hurt to look. Plus I get to see anything else there is to see down there and reseal the outside of the pan.

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Front springs, if they are deformed, replace. If the bushings are good, why replace?

At least one of the springs is loosing it's arch, at least according to Rawze. Honestly I have a hard time seeing it, but I believe him. The pin bushings are all shot and popping side to side, on both ends of the springs. It's time.

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Oil pressure sensor, pull fuel filter and replace. I believe it is 27 ftlbs of torque on the bolt. Also replace the crank and cam sensor while you are at it. Inspect the Jake brake harness for leaks too. If it is showing signs of weeping, use RTV to seal it up, this will require popping the top... Easy fix, and it works.

Crank and Cam sensors replaced in Feb on my way down to Rawze's. Overhead was done a year ago, about 75-80k mi ago, but I wasn't present at the time and I have a nagging need to verify the condition of everything in there, so that and the inspecting jake harness is already on my list. Tons of great info and video on that already.

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 1. pressure test coolant system up to 20 psi leave it sit for awhile. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times to check for coolant running/dripping from anywhere on the bottom end.

Don't really have any coolant loss. Maybe add a quart every few months, mostly in the winter when the rubber hoses shrink and expand and leak. Otherwise it's been good. Once in a while the little tube from the overflow looks a little wet, but again, very rare that I add coolant. Used to loose a noticeable amount of coolant until I replaced the pressure cap. Been nearly perfect ever since.

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 2. Jack the steer tire just high enough to get it off the ground by a hair. Then unbolt and replace the springs. It allows you to roll the axle around a bit to line things up with the hangers when reassembling.

nice

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 3. Coroseal and por15 are the go to on this site for painting and sealing rusty stuff and stuff you want a permanent seal coat on.

The new springs aren't rusted yet. Still use coroseal on them first? Would por15 be overkill for springs?

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 4. Oil pan gaskets are reusable. Except when monkeys hammer them down with an impact gun and squish the gasket in to oblivion.

Ok, one vote for replacing the gasket, one vote for reuse!

(07-12-2020 )Meanwhile Wrote: I was taught to prefill the filters. We also used a punch to put a hole in the bottom of the filters to drain what we could before pulling them off. A small bucket or a large coffee can usually caught everything.

I put a quick release drain plug in my oil pan so that I could drain it into buckets or jugs easier until I can get a big enough drain pan.

Got a quick release plug to install with this upcoming service! Got one on my dodge cummins and it's great.

Nice idea about punching a hole in the old filter!

JimT

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Be careful with the oil pan gasket... Been there and done that, especially if it has been on for awhile... por15 may not be the best thing to use on metal, it locks in the rust and does not allow the metal to breathe. I say that after researching undercoat treatments for a vehicle I was looking to purchase... I learned quite a bit. Personally, I would not use por15 on rusted or blemished metal, and I have, and it is ugly... Just saying. Coraseal, yes.

Interesting that you mention this. My Dodge needs some TLC. With all the plowing it's done throughout it's life it's becoming a rust factory under there. Was considering light sanding then using a coroseal/por15 combo to clean up the frame and axle tubes. Guess I'll have to think about that one some more.

Waterloo

"The new springs aren't rusted yet. Still use coroseal on them first? Would por15 be overkill for springs?"

After what I saw, no por15 on my truck... Especially crucial parts like the suspension... Watch this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg&t=81s

tree98

Speedhut brand gauges are top of the line. A little pricey and you might have to wait 4-6 weeks to get them depending on what you buy. I have a pyro and a boost from them, very nice product.
Quick serve should have a procedure for the fuel filter. X15 filters come with a plug for the center of the filter so you can pre fill it and not contaminate the clean side. My 870 filters go on dry and the priming pump fills it per quickserve instructions and a small piece of hose