bought a 2017 kw w900l

[cheepjeep85]

(08-13-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  

(08-12-2020 )cheepjeep85 Wrote:  

(08-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  The only block, would be in the EGR cooler, the exhaust side, a stainless steel plug. If you do not have the proper SS plug, leave it alone. The EGR stays intact, and is closed permanently via the ECM. The motor stays intact, this is all done through software. Of course, hollow out the cans... Most outfits doing this work do everything opposite... Pull systems, plate, block and then turn around and butcher the ECM and never touch the cans... In short time, you have a cooked motor... And most guys will go right back to the same well that destroyed their truck for a fix... Stupid is a funny thing... ;-)

i won't be taking my truck anywhere to have anything stupid done to it, by stupid people. I have no intentions of trying to squeeze more power out of it (that's not to say if it can be done safely i wouldn't be open to a little more power), the goal is reliability. I am here asking questions because i want things done right, and want to learn what i need to know to make this a reliable engine. thanks for all of the replies gentlemen.

Yep, that is the right attitude. Most power issues can be addressed by a gear swap. These dealers order these trucks with some damn silly gearing in them, like 3:05 or 3:25, etc... Those gears beat these EPA motors to death... You are in the right spot.

oh its definitely high geared, their is a shop local to me i've used in the past that i will get to do the regear for me. I can pull the third members, and take them to him and labor runs about $400 per plus parts which isn't too bad. Based on the od of the 18spd, and the fact it has 11r24.5s on it i'm going to with 3.70 rears which will put me right at 1450-1500 at 70mph = sweet spot.

[Squish099]

(08-13-2020 )cheepjeep85 Wrote:  

(08-13-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  

(08-12-2020 )cheepjeep85 Wrote:  

(08-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  The only block, would be in the EGR cooler, the exhaust side, a stainless steel plug. If you do not have the proper SS plug, leave it alone. The EGR stays intact, and is closed permanently via the ECM. The motor stays intact, this is all done through software. Of course, hollow out the cans... Most outfits doing this work do everything opposite... Pull systems, plate, block and then turn around and butcher the ECM and never touch the cans... In short time, you have a cooked motor... And most guys will go right back to the same well that destroyed their truck for a fix... Stupid is a funny thing... ;-)

i won't be taking my truck anywhere to have anything stupid done to it, by stupid people. I have no intentions of trying to squeeze more power out of it (that's not to say if it can be done safely i wouldn't be open to a little more power), the goal is reliability. I am here asking questions because i want things done right, and want to learn what i need to know to make this a reliable engine. thanks for all of the replies gentlemen.

Yep, that is the right attitude. Most power issues can be addressed by a gear swap. These dealers order these trucks with some damn silly gearing in them, like 3:05 or 3:25, etc... Those gears beat these EPA motors to death... You are in the right spot.

oh its definitely high geared, their is a shop local to me i've used in the past that i will get to do the regear for me. I can pull the third members, and take them to him and labor runs about $400 per plus parts which isn't too bad. Based on the od of the 18spd, and the fact it has 11r24.5s on it i'm going to with 3.70 rears which will put me right at 1450-1500 at 70mph = sweet spot.

I would seriously consider either ditching the tall rubber or a deeper gear yet, 3.90 maybe? That's the very bottom of what rpm you want to run..

[Lonestar10]

11r24.5s almost no one takes them in on core trade. hence why i like my 22.5s i can trade them in as retread cores anywhere and i always buy virgin rubber so i always get a core value when i put new tires on.

[cheepjeep85]

The tall rubber won't be going anywhere. I have a brother in law that works for a large tire dist. i get a pretty good deal on tires.

[JimT]

DEF tank has the pump on the bottom. Not sure if it's exactly the same, but underneath there should be a plate held on by 3 bolts. Take one out and loosen the other two, open plate, unscrew cap and access DEF filter. New filter comes with a plastic tool to pull old filter down. When you replace make sure new filter is all the way up. All the way! Otherwise the screw on cap won't close all the way and you'll leak DEF everywhere. Takes a few minutes to build up pressure so it might not leak immediately upon starting the engine. How do I know this? ... yeah ... been there ...