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Lonestar10 · 04-01-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Atleast your ESA can do something. the only thing i can get mine todo is run the hvac blend door calibration other than that nothin. had kenworth update my CECU and cluster programming 2 weeks ago and thats what gave me the ability to even do that before it was completely useless and wants me to flash to older software versions to gain functionality.

Atleast with the new software i shouldnt break any more blend doors as i had the defrost/feet/vent door break and had to rip the entire dash out to replace it.

Ill have to look into what your doing though i wouldnt mind a dinger for my dump valve as theres been several times ive used it around a customers yard then forgot to turn it off till 50-60miles down the road.

Chamberpains · 04-02-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

I changed the switch for my dump valve to an ultra bright red LED light up switch. It can't go unnoticed for very long.
I also changed my construction strobes switch to a cool dim blue so it doesn't blind or distract me while it's on all day or night but it still gives me a visual reminder they're on.

Lonestar10 · 04-03-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

are these factory spare switches Chamber or aftermarket? I have 2 ken/pete switches labeled Spare 1 for my LED rear flood lights and other i use for my dump valve. i like being able to use the truck specific switches as their prewired into truck and ive got 2 big plugins behind the middle of my dash for Key on power and Constant power for adding to the other spare slots in my switch clusters so the pre engineered power sources for a KW/Pete are nice to be able to use.

Chamberpains · 04-04-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

I used a pull out "spare switch" for the inverter in the bunk. I ordered a very similar switch setup from Del City. I used the pre-wired harness for the one switch. I think the strobe lights because it was just a hot and ground that was laying in the dash. Then for the other switch I took out the Regen override switch and repinned the plug to be correct on the Del City switch. So everything is still using factory ran wires and fuses in the fuse block.

Lonestar10 · 04-04-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Cool thanks Chamber i went to site they do have some similiar switches to the KW/Pete style that i could use when i goto put on my trailer flood lights and some lights inside my headache racks chain storage.

Nostalgic · 04-11-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Just when I thought I'd have a Saturday off...

Made the "mistake" of doing an actual post trip and found coolant about 2 pints low. I thought it looked low the day before during my pretrip, but truck wasn't setting level.

I have been amazed that the original radiator lasted this long - 13 +/- years.

Small crack at the square area for the bleeder nipple. I just wish it had leaked one of the other times I had to pull the cooling pack. Of course, no OE in stock on the weekend, and I didn't want to chance it for the week in case it decided to come apart. Picked up a JTP - we'll see how it holds up.

I showed the dog how to do it this time and told him next one he's on his own.

On a side note, my Dogecoin is up 20% over the weekend. Here's hoping in 10 years I'll be as happy as Rawze with his bitcoin?

tree98 · 04-11-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

I think a lot of us are going to have to make do with parts we wouldn't normally use. Seems everything under the sun is hard to get or backordered for a LONG time. More covid BS for us poor bastards to contend with.

Nilao · 04-11-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

My radiator is a custom 4 row copper core and brass tank setup. Mine started to leak over the winter. It was the rubber bushing had hardened and shrunk allowing it to shift in the cradle. Rubbed 3 holes in the bottom tank. $250 to braze it and clean it and rivet the bushings in place so they wouldn't let it slide around anymore. So.far so good.

Nostalgic · 04-11-2021, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

(04-11-2021 )Nilao Wrote: My radiator is a custom 4 row copper core and brass tank setup. Mine started to leak over the winter. It was the rubber bushing had hardened and shrunk allowing it to shift in the cradle. Rubbed 3 holes in the bottom tank. $250 to braze it and clean it and rivet the bushings in place so they wouldn't let it slide around anymore. So.far so good.

Is it just inside a frame with rubber bushings? Mine just has 8 pins that holds the radiator in the frame. Parts guy at Hunter's made a point to mention how the foam pads were included and installed on the sides of mine... but, they don't do anything lol. The sides don't touch the framework.

Almost all of the pin bushings on mine were wore down. You could flip flop the top of the radiator inside the frame from front to back a good 1/4" or so, which is probably what caused that nipple area to crack. Frame was kind of a pia to get everything aligned right, and I still had to change bushings around a little on my CAC mounting after all was said and done.