Isx skipping under heavy oil load and small oil leak
04-15-2021, (Subject: Isx skipping under heavy oil load and small oil leak ) 
Post: #19
RE: Isx skipping under heavy oil load and small oil leak
Retorqe the pan. It's leaking judging by the pictures.

As Rawze asked have the rods and mains been done?
replyreply
04-15-2021, (Subject: Isx skipping under heavy oil load and small oil leak ) 
Post: #20
RE: Isx skipping under heavy oil load and small oil leak
One thing to take into consideration is the front AND rear structure, they are both aluminum and very soft. I believe the torque specs are 27ft lbs, double check quick serve for the correct specs. I can tell you from experience to take it easy up there if you do retorque. Be very gentle, if one bolt just spins, drop the pan and either use a Heli-Coil or a Time-Sert kit, I prefer the Time-Sert over the Heli-Coil. The Time-Sert is more expensive, but was easier to use and came with everything in the kit to do multiple repairs, just a better product in my eyes.

Here is the Time-Sert https://amzn.to/3tpyWNh

Heli-Coil https://amzn.to/3dkSn40

The Heli-Coil kit will require a 13/64 drill bit, it does not come with the kit. Make sure to file down the spur or lip of the drill tip so it does not grab into the aluminum. If not filed down, they will grab the aluminum and you will screw up the hole, as a sharp drill will go through that aluminum like butter.

Either one will work on that front structure if any of the holes are blown out. Don't waste your time with RTV or trying to seal it any other way, fix the hole, and be gentle. Odds are you will need a new gasket if it is old, be gentle removing it and you can reuse it if it is in good shape.

The instructions are on Quickserve on how to remove and re-install the gasket, and yes, there are steps that should be taken, follow the instructions so you only have to do it once. Trust me, it is no fun under there.

And if you have the pan off, it would be a good idea to roll in some new bearings if they have never been replaced, you risk ventilating the block when a wrist pin cuts loose, and they will. If they are the factory originals, it is time. Well beyond time.

Also, that damper, 500,000 miles is their normal life span, as it is loaded with a viscous fluid, over time it hardens, and will and can wreak havoc on your motor and accessories. I would replace that too if you really care about that motor. Go to long with that original, it could cut loose on you, they can and will blow apart, and can seriously damage the motor and surrounding components, like the radiator and front structure... It happened to someone here, the photos were pretty cool, it literally split in half, and only destroyed itself, but did require a tow to a shop. He was sitting in a parking lot when it blew apart on him, lucky guy. Driving down the road, it more than likely would have taken out the motor.


User's Signature: 2008 ProStar, OEM 600hp CM-871, 18spd, 3:42, in framed in Rawze's driveway. Every day is a fresh new episode of, "The Twilight Zone"... Rod Serling lives rent free in my head. I can smell the Chesterfields.
replyreply
 Thanks given by: Running rough , Rawze , SquareOne , JimT




NOTE: Rawze.com is not affiliated, nor endorses any of the google ads that are displayed on this website.