Exhaust manifold broken bolts

[Lead_sled]

So, I’ve found while searching that this seems to be a common occurrence.

I’ve got the last 3 bolts broken and have of course a squealing noise. Classic symptoms it seems. My question.....what’s the best method to get the broken bolts out? Remove manifold, drill guide hole and use backout bit?

I can only imagine that they’re going to be pretty stubborn to get out. I’ve also run across a kit to get these out, but not willing to pay several hundred dollars for it unless necessary.

And I’m sure it’ll be wise to put all new bolts, spacers, and gaskets to all that is broken loose.

Suggestions?

[Lead_sled]

Also......

What creates the seal on the turbo connections? Is it just the clamp or is there some type of metal seal? I’ve checked quickserve and I can’t find an illustration that shows me clearly. Photo attached showing slight leak and area of concern.

[Waterloo]

Yes, replace the exhaust bolts and spacers, the bolts are one time use, the spacers can be reused. Myself, I replaced both the bolts and spacers when I installed my new manifold. The clamps on the turbo, are just clamps, just make sure they are in good shape when you reinstall.

[Rawze]

(07-18-2021 )Lead_sled Wrote:  So, I’ve found while searching that this seems to be a common occurrence.

...

cummins had an old TSB for this issue.. it is a common problem with older manifolds that are not drilled out quite far enough for proper heat expansion. here is the thread that talks about this and I posted the the proper reemer to use...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...9#pid39699

Also the #1 or #6 likes to snap exhaust bolts if the expansion joint gets severely rusted up and cannot slip in and out under heat loads. That is another common issue.

WHATEVER YOU DO >>>!!!! The best way to prevent exhaust bolts from snapping ... NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER INSTALL THEM WITHOUT A TORQUE WRENCH!!... Always torque them exactly to spec so that they can expand according to specifications.

Personally, I also use a very light coating of anti-sieze on the bolt threads and shanks too, although the procedure does not recommend/call for it. I have always had good luck with them this way, and have not seen one break by doing this. I also use a very light coat of anti-sieze on the gaskets (both sides) too, to help them seal better. When I say "light coating", I mean "very light" coatings... like wiped a tiny bit on, coating everything, .. then off again with your fingers, no excess at all.

[JimT]

Also, use plenty of antiseize. not TOO much on the bolt threads, but paint the mounting surfaces/gaskets for the manifold with the stuff too. The gaskets come with a coating on them already, but it scratches/comes off fairly easily so a fresh coating with help fill in any gaps.

[Chamberpains]

And use the thin film of anti-seize that is recommended from quickserve.cummins.com on the threads of the new bolts.

Often times if the bolts snapped off by themselves then the tips are just floating there. Try a good left hand drill bit and see if they'll come out. If they don't keep drilling though the broken piece and use a good left hand easyout. Drill hog makes a descent set.

[tree98]

^^^^^^^what he said ^^^^^^^^ you might be pleasantly surprised that the broken pieces in the head aren't seized in at all and come right out.

[Chamberpains]

Here's a link to my experience of broken manifold bolts a couple years back. There a lot of really good info from the boys on the forum in this one. http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid49114

[Lead_sled]

Do you guys have an average time and steps to disassemble and reassemble? Excluding bolt extraction.

I just called the local KW shop and they quoted between 10-14 hours @ $160 for labor. I’m thinking I may stop by Walmart to pickup a cheap corded drill and at autozone for a bolt extractor set and torque wrench and do it myself.