Oil pan T joint sealants

[Nostalgic]

(12-25-2021 )Signature620 Wrote:  You can clean silicone mostly off, then add a touch of fresh silicone and reuse the gasket. Don't coat the entire gasket in anything apart from the corners.

Also, why are you removing your pan so often that this is even a concern for you??

Haven't been there yet, but shimming the pressure regulator on one of the new pumps and wanting to make an adjustment?

Or, if you have my luck and install a new strip gasket on your front cover and let the 1.5" piece you cut off slip out of your fingers. Little bugger made a clean shot past all of the gears and straight to the bottom of the oil pan.

[JMBT]

Signature620: My pan has 4 times before. 1st was checking for coolant intrusion with the system pressurized barring the motor, 2nd was changing rod and main bearings and replacing the oil pump, 3rd was swapping the new style oil pump back to a quieter old style oil pump, and 4th was to replace the flywheel housing gasket and rear motor mounts.

This time will be the 5th, and just because it is starting to leak at the corners.

Nostalgic: Does the one minute black give you enough work time to secure and torque the pan? I was thinking the 90 minute??

[Nostalgic]

You want everything clean and ready to go when you apply it, but I think the can says something like get it together within 5? minutes. I like it over the 90 minute because no matter how long you have the pan off or how many times you wipe the drips, there seems to be an endless supply of oil that always seem to want to head to the corners lol. Slower setting stuff give the oil longer to screw up the seal.

Rawze, didn't you try that teflon pipe dope - Rector seal? How did it do?

[JMBT]

That’s makes sense.. I hadn’t thought of that…..

I think Rawze said he had good luck with the Teflon??

I thought maybe the great white pipe dope would be similar to what he had used, but it apparently it was not similar enough!! Lol. I think the great white is too thin.. It worked for a bit…

[Rawze]

this is what i do... it works just fine for me, and I can take my oil pan off as often as I like ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid67358

[kozakvod]

I thought I'd jump in here on this thread as it's in line. I'm getting SOME oil leakage around my pan (not enough that it drips while running) but over a day or so sitting it will have some oil in the front left corner on the ground and the rear left corner also on the ground. I know it's at the pan simply because there's no other leaks on the engine front rear sides or otherwise. My questions are this...

Is replacing the pan something one man can do?

I've honestly never done it before and I'm not afraid to do it, but can I physically man-handle it?

I read guys on here removing and replacing theirs, but it seems it would require an extra set of hands, wouldn't it?

Basically, I don't want to bite off a chunk of something that I can't chew on alone! HAHA

[Nostalgic]

It's not heavy, just awkward, which is compounded by laying on your back and working around the axle. I usually get my wife to help, but aside from avoiding scuffing fresh paint and having free help, a couple guide studs and a precut 2x4 to hold it up would work fine.

[Rawze]

Driving the front tires up onto some wood/6x6's helps with getting at it to.

After I drain mine as much as I can,
I usually remove mine by myself. I just put 5-gallon bucket in the back end and stack some wood so that it only has a few inches to drop in the back, then handle the front by hand. It is not really heavy, but like others said... awkward.

Just remember that some oil will be in the back.. and it will run towards the front as you drop the pan down. It can be messy if your not aware of this.

The engine will also drip oil for a week with the pan off it ... so I usually use a cheap throw-away tarp. thin ply-wood, etc. or something to keep it from getting all over the ground.