Prostar Body Controller

[kenno2s]

I am in OZ and have a 2013 Prostar rebadged to a CAT CT-610. It has the 13L Maxxforce engine with dual sequential turbos and EGR (yes with air coolers that are useless), DPF and an 18 spd Ultrashift. It is a dump truck (we call them tippers) that pulls a dog trailer (3 axle trailer with the front axle on a dolly with a drawbar connected to a ringfeeder). I have had this truck since 2016 and have had issues with it from then. I keep getting "Gen Trans Fault" & "Elect Fault". I have had all the gauges go to MAX and then back to normal when driving (which freaked me out) and get the Hill Start Assist light blinking slowly quite often. I have read all 11 pages on Prostar in this forum and couldn't find any thing directly related to my problem. I believe it is the ABS wiring or the ABS Controller making the Hill Start Assist light blink, and the wiring for the Dump & Engine Brake Switches. I recently replaced the fully sealed LED headlights that have all LED lights in it made by TruckLite. To replace them it costs $2,000.00 AUD each. So I thought I would change them to HID from a Prostar. That was OK but the code in DLB made them stay on with IGN on all the time so the LED headlights kept burning out (I had done 2 till now). I got DLB (cracked version which I think lets me program as I have changed things in it and it shows up in how the markers, parkers, taillights and headlights work now) and deleted the code which kept the headlights on all the time and a couple of other things. Now I can't engage my PTO, the Dump Switch and Engine Brake Switch blink slowly and the Dump Switch works in reverse only when the PDL is on. Bizarre to say the least. I believe it is what I have read about the wiring for all Prostar's if I am correct? Please correct me if I am wrong. I have checked the continuity from the ABS Controller to the Body Controller and the plugs and wiring on the Body Controller. Every thing looks OK (a little bit of corrosion on a couple of connections but nothing major) but I still can't get the bloody thing to work properly. I am going into my 4th week off the road now and am pretty depressed about the damned truck. I also have faults saying that certain connections in the J4 plug on the Body Controller have voltage going to them but there is no wire in there and the Body Controller is telling me that. As I said, Bizarre to say the least but from what I have read these Prostar's are TOTALLY BIZARRE. I am meeting with CATERPILLAR this week to discuss options as we have NO support here either from CAT or Navistar or IVECO (who is the dealer for Navistar here). CAT want to help as ever since Navistar scr3&3d CAT and pulled out of the deal they had here every one has just washed their hands of it. Can any one help? Sorry if this is long and drawn out but I wanted every one to have all the data I have.

[tree98]

I don't have any answers for you but I do know that the wiring in those trucks is notoriously awful!!!

[Lonestar10]

Yeah cat trucks were more notorious than Volvo with wiring issues

[Rawze]

Hope your aware that engine is a mostly a failed project of a boat anchor. Even Navistar themselves have campaigns out where they yank those engines out and replace them with a cummins instead of rebuilding them when there is a warranty engine failure.

as far as wiring gremlins go.. the cab controller is not usually flaky. but it is very sensitive to tarnished fuses in the fuse box causing all kinds of ghost problems.

ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...1#pid12861

and as far as using 'cracked' versions of DLB on the cab controller .. if u have re-flashed it with that, then you might want to take it to a real stealers#hip and have the software re-installed/updated to latest with OEM again specific to that make/model engine and setup.

[kenno2s]

Thanks guys. Yes I know of the issues with this engine but I have actually fixed its problems. It turned out to be the plug for the DPF sensors (I changed the sensors twice), the AFI & DSI. I cleaned the EBPV and increased the inner diameter of the (for want of the right name) spark plug steel gasket just before the EBPV and it burns off all the time now on idle and driving. I also found the design of the EGR air coolers was not very well tested and have found the {after-market air coolers} will do the trick. But in the meantime I use XSNANO in the tanks which has helped greatly to regain some semblance of an affordable fuel consumption figure and helped clean the air coolers until I can afford to buy the {after-market coolers} ones (that is a job and half).

I agree with you RAWZE in regard to the cracked version. I haven't been sleeping very well and think about this all the time. So this morning I thought I might change that software and recheck the wiring. I am going to order the blower resistor harness today as well as my wiring is burnt where I soldered the connections that bolt to my Cole Hersee automatic reset circuit breakers (your post on that was great I do appreciate you all and love this forum). I have already checked the wiring as I had to spend $8,500.00 AUD on the transmission late last year as the auxiliary box at the back of the box needed to be fixed after I had changed every sensor, solenoid, XY shifter the year before, XY harness, cleaned all the connections and inserted dielectric grease, cleaned all the connections on the TECU and its fastening nuts & bolts and cleaned all the battery, outer firewall, inner firewall and Body Controller connections. See I am like you RAWZE. Any way I shall keep persisting with this truck as I can't afford to get out of it now as I am too far down the track financially. Apparently CAT here want to help but how I don't know yet.

Thank you all for your help and informative replies. I can't thank you enough.

Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou.

[DVT873]

Post the complete VIN and I might be able to see your set up. Never tried on a CAT. DLB is it's own little world. A slow blink usually means a requirement aka interlock has not been met. The DLB program can open all the details. Find the parameter, click on it then click on "make session". That will show you all subparameters and signals involved.

Is the PTO an air shift? If it is find the trigger air line. It will likely go back to an air solenoid pack on the frame. That solenoid is what DL is controlling. You can bypass it with any air solenoid, a fan clutch solenoid will work fine. You can control it with a toggle switch.

All DL does is allow interlocks and conditions to be programmed in. Example, maybe you want the PTO to disengage obove 32kph. Or Maybe the suspension has to be dumped, or the brake set, or the passenger door has to be open. Whatever crazy shi#t somebody thought was a good idea. But after all those hoops are jumped thru it still comes down to that frame solenoid getting triggered.

Horton makes an solenoid kit that can set up to be Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC)

As far as the other issues you could have disturbed something when you "deleted the code which kept the headlights on all the time and a couple of other things." If all your problems started after that then it likey one of the "other things" you changed is tied in.

The good news is that since you are using a "cracked" version of DLB your changes did not get wriiten to the master file in the NAV cloud. Have never tried on a CAT truck but from what I know about Blue Diamond, and some rebadged Perkins and DD engines NAV has the master file.

[Rawze]

(03-01-2022 )kenno2s Wrote:  ...
I also found the design of the EGR air coolers was not very well tested and have found the {after-market air coolers} will do the trick.
...

I hope that you are aware that those, especially that brand that i removed.. after-market coolers are FAR LESS THERMAL EFFICIENT than OEM coolers. - It is not recommended on here to use them as such. I know you mentioned air coolers, but here is one fine example of this same type of cooler used for the EGR... same principal...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...02#pid2802

Aftermarket CAC coolers have these same type of problems. Most are restrictive as all he$ll and cause big problems with turbo and/or fuel mileage and other losses due to either not cooling the air properly, or being significantly more restrictive internally.. or usually both.

I am not a fan of aftermarket products like that. It is better to find a more proper solution, like preventing the failures to begin with by ensuring the thing is able to properly expand and contract with heat and pressure loads and not to be installed with any kind of tension placed on it or in a bind because all the bolts did not align 100%, or it was not 100% flat to its mounting brackets, etc.

[kenno2s]

I shall do some more research on the air coolers RAWZE and get back to you. As for the VIN here you go $DVT873:

VIN: 1HSKMTKR8DJ311936

Engine No: KBK01830

Chassis No: DJ311936

[kenno2s]

Hi, I don't know if you know $DVT873 but the CAT VIN is different to the Navistar VIN. I did start to use a Navistar VIN I got from a Canadian truck I found on the Web but that didn't help. So I started to use the CAT Chassis Number and that seems to be going OK. However, in saying that it returns a message saying "Unknown Module at address 150" if you know what I mean when I click the Program Test Bench button or the Program Test Bench Module button.

The Canadian VIN may not have a PTO I don't know, I just thought I should use a Navistar VIN. I shall continue on it today. I did know about the air solenoid as I spoke to my auto electrician and he suggested that to me yesterday. I am going to get the parts this morning.

Thank you every one for all your help I REALLY DO APPRECIATE IT. I MEAN THAT as I have had no support here from any one except my auto electrician over the years. I am meeting with CAT next week as the contact contracted COVID19 Delta from his little girl and is laid up in bed for a week.

I shall keep you posted.