X15 2350 performance issues.

[Kiko]

Hello to all. I am having some trouble with a x15 2350 in an international truck. First off the truck came in as was told that it was in de-rate and would not idle down in cold weather. It was -20 c here so immediately I figured it was gelled fuel or froze up. I added some 911 to the fuel. Checked the water separator and fuel level was to the top of the glass so I figured that was it. Changed both fuel filters and left truck inside overnight. Took it for a drive the next day but under load it had no power. It seemed to be stuttering and I could hear a popping from the engine. When not driving it runs ok. I checked fuel delivery and had a steady 100 psi. Monitored fuel rail pressure and it stayed between 29 and 30000 when loaded up. Did a cylinder cut kit test and passed. Did a fuel injector by performance test and it passed all segments a few times. It did have an active code for crankcase pressure short. Found wiring at the plug was bad so changed the sensor and repaired wiring clearing the code. No change to performance. Truck idles fine. Read on here about the high pressure leak test so performed it and had 11000 psi drop in 60 seconds. Tested the fuel rail relief and had no fuel at all at 29000 psi. I am suspecting an injector but am waiting on a injector plug off cap which should be in my hands next week

A question is, under insite, it says that you can lose up to 21000 psi on the leak test. I read in here that this is a misprint and according to me Rawze that you should not have more than 4000 psi drop. Is this correct.

Also I have noticed that the engine brake is not working. Cruise control does. It says on insite that the switch and the percent is working ok. Could this also be part of the problem. I haven’t taken the top off yet to inspect the rockers or solenoids.

Does anybody have any thoughts on this. When I first checked this all it appeared the engine was stuttering and popping. Now it’s not doing that but appears to not have any power at all. Also can’t seem to make boost. I checked the turbo and pressurized the intake charge system with air and has no leaks. Turbo looks ok.

[Rawze]

(02-02-2024 )Kiko Wrote:  ...
A question is, under insite, it says that you can lose up to 21000 psi on the leak test. I read in here that this is a misprint and according to me Rawze that you should not have more than 4000 psi drop. Is this correct.
...

yeah.. its supposed to be 4,000 psi on 60 seconds. That is the original spec.. and I suspect the red engine maker changed it to have less warranty claims?.. but one never knows why it was changed to that.

In any event, 21k psi on one minute is a disaster waiting to eat up a cylinder after a while. Seen many cylinder failures due to injector(s) leaking.

- As far as finding out if there something holding the fuel back, Insite is almost useless for this. The Calterm software is needed for actually determining what is going on. Here is a screen file on what to monitor...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid28636

Get some desktop recording software up and going, and then set the screen up in CT. Record it into a video, and then it can be played back moment by moment as it acts up.

The fuel control state and a few others is the thing to monitor in particular. Let me know what the value is while its acting up, and I will tell you what system or circuit is holding the fuel back at that moment.

The next question.. is it De-Mandateed?... and if so... who did it?... as more than 90% of all de-mandates are bad + harmful to the engine. This even before anyone adds any power to it.

Use the CT software to copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it to me for a proper review of what someone did in there. That is how someone moves forward if they have a de-mandate program.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...2#pid68742

[Kiko]

So I think I figured the low performance issues. I blocked off injectors doing a leak test and found that injectors 6 and 3 were leaking. Have ordered some new ones. Thanks Rawze for your help.

I do have another question though. I still don’t have exhaust brake. With insite I monitored clutch switch, working, brake switch, working, exhaust brake switch, working, exhaust brake level, working, cruise control works, removed the valve cover and inspected. All appears normal, wiring is connected, solenoids test ok. When driving and I remove the throttle pedal while monitoring exhaust brake output circuit 2, 2, 3, and 4 and it shows inactive. I believe this is because the ecm is not telling it to come on correct?

Now one thing I did notice was that the throttle pedal on insite is showing 0 and 100 % when pushed but the multiplexed accelerator error limp home switch state is showing accelerator pressed. Can anyone tell me what this is or where. For giggles I plugged in j-pro to see any cab related issues and also saw that the engine desired throttle Valve position was 100 % when throttle is not pushed and throttle position was 100% at an idle. So I guess I’m wondering if this is related to this error limp home switch state and the exhaust brake not working

[Yauchout]

when is the last time you changed the exhaust gas pressure sensor i recently had one fail had no engine codes but lost power and the jakes wouldn't function correctly and when i looked at the live sensor data it wouldn't read over 10.5 inhg

[Kiko]

(02-07-2024 )Yauchout Wrote:  when is the last time you changed the exhaust gas pressure sensor i recently had one fail had no engine codes but lost power and the jakes wouldn't function correctly and when i looked at the live sensor data it wouldn't read over 10.5 inhg

Well that’s a good question. I’m not sure if it’s ever been changed. Do you know what it should be reading. Didn’t know it could effect the exhaust brake but I guess it makes sense. I’ll have a look on Monday and let you know. I’m waiting on injectors that are supposed to be here on Monday.

[PolishHammer]

Engine brake is temp sensitive of engine not at operating temp no jakes. Do you have a temp issue ? What's the coolant temp saying on insite ? Maybe truck wasn't warmed up enough.

[Techmech]

(02-10-2024 )Kiko Wrote:  

(02-07-2024 )Yauchout Wrote:  when is the last time you changed the exhaust gas pressure sensor i recently had one fail had no engine codes but lost power and the jakes wouldn't function correctly and when i looked at the live sensor data it wouldn't read over 10.5 inhg

Well that’s a good question. I’m not sure if it’s ever been changed. Do you know what it should be reading. Didn’t know it could effect the exhaust brake but I guess it makes sense. I’ll have a look on Monday and let you know. I’m waiting on injectors that are supposed to be here on Monday.

The Exhaust Gas Pressure should roughly read 30 InHg +/- Key on engine off. Should be almost identical as your Barometric/Atmospheric pressure sensor reading. Also when you take that sensor off make sure to start the engine and see if there is exhaust gas flow. I have seen it plugged shut multiple times.

[Kiko]

(02-10-2024 )PolishHammer Wrote:  Engine brake is temp sensitive of engine not at operating temp no jakes. Do you have a temp issue ? What's the coolant temp saying on insite ? Maybe truck wasn't warmed up enough.

Thanks that’s also good to know. I think it was working ok when I was checking things but I’ll have to double check.

[Kiko]

(02-10-2024 )Techmech Wrote:  

(02-10-2024 )Kiko Wrote:  

(02-07-2024 )Yauchout Wrote:  when is the last time you changed the exhaust gas pressure sensor i recently had one fail had no engine codes but lost power and the jakes wouldn't function correctly and when i looked at the live sensor data it wouldn't read over 10.5 inhg

Well that’s a good question. I’m not sure if it’s ever been changed. Do you know what it should be reading. Didn’t know it could effect the exhaust brake but I guess it makes sense. I’ll have a look on Monday and let you know. I’m waiting on injectors that are supposed to be here on Monday.

The Exhaust Gas Pressure should read 30 InHg +/- Key on engine off. Should be almost identical as your Barometric/Atmospheric pressure sensor reading. Also when you take that sensor off make sure to start the engine and see if there is exhaust gas flow. I have seen it plugged shut multiple times.

Thank you for the specs. I’ll try it on Monday and have a look.