Exhaust paint and/or wrap
04-30-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #1
Exhaust paint and/or wrap
So as I get ready to reassemble the exhaust side of my engine I started to wonder if a high temp header paint (Like VHT or the harder to find Por-15 high temp) might be helpful to prevent or minimize rust on the bolts and manifold. While searching through old posts I didn't see any mention of paint, but I did see exhaust wraps mentioned.

So, would it be useful to paint the exhaust manifold? What about a wrap? Both?

Also, if I have an aftermarket EGT probe clamped to the manifold to monitor heat soak, should that be covered by the wrap or clamped on over the top of the wrap?

Looks and performance gains are not the goal. Longevity, maintainability and avoiding performance losses are the goals.

Any thoughts and/or experiences are welcome!


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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05-04-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #2
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
Just my .02 but what I've been doing is purchasing a new manifold at some point, sending that and the exhaust side housing of the turbo(exhaust housing only!) Out for ceramic coating. I usually do black because I'm not much for chrome and it holds up to the heat alot better. This helps to eliminate some heat soaking of the manifold and turbo hence less thermal exchange of the fresh air flowing through it leading to a lower intake air temperature and higher intake air density. It's only a few hundred bucks and could probably call around and find someone to coat it within a short driving distance. It's worth it for the look and corrosion prevention alone.
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 Thanks given by: JimT
05-04-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #3
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
Thanks. That's good to know.

I've got some VHT flameproof header paint laying around my garage that I'm going to try out on this old manifold. Really have no reason to buy a new one right now and I'm just trying to reduce rust build up, mainly around the bolts and spacers. If it helps great, if not it's no worse than it currently is.

I asked about the wrap since I had seen it mentioned by others in previous topics. Hoping to get some input from some one who's tried it.


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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05-05-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #4
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
The VHT paint works well if you bake it on. I forget what the instructions were on stepping temps and times, but follow them and it holds up well. I used my propane grill.

Just painting it and running it on the truck to bake will not give very good results.

I did wraps on custom headers when I was a kid and the pipes rotted out in less than a year. Probably a lot of issues with everything from start to finish, but the end result was being turned off to ever wrapping anything again lol.
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 Thanks given by: JimT
05-05-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #5
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
From VHT's website:

Quote:Curing FLAMEPROOF™
VHT FLAMEPROOF™ Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).

On the Vehicle:
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minute
Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes

Off the Vehicle:
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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05-05-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #6
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
exhaust manifold can get upwards of 1200+F.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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05-07-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #7
Code scanner with clearing ability
Hello,
Currently use on board Silverleaf and Cummins mini for diagnostics and fault codes. Mini does not
have capability to clear codes.
Any recommendations on code reader/scanner that works with the ISX15 and allows codes to be cleared for transients or after repair.
Thanks
Rick Starzyk
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05-08-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #8
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
(05-07-2024 )ricstar Wrote:  Hello,
Currently use on board Silverleaf and Cummins mini for diagnostics and fault codes. Mini does not
have capability to clear codes.
Any recommendations on code reader/scanner that works with the ISX15 and allows codes to be cleared for transients or after repair.
Thanks
Rick Starzyk

First that question doesn't even remotely belong in this thread. If you want to ask a new question create a new thread in the "ask a question" topic or for something simple you could even try the shoutbox on the main page.

Second I don't know about all the options that are available, but a laptop with Cummins Insite and an Inline 6 adapter is what I have. Not only can I read/clear codes but I can also perform other tests and data monitoring of my Cummins engine.


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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 Thanks given by: Rawze
08-11-2024, (Subject: Exhaust paint and/or wrap ) 
Post: #9
RE: Exhaust paint and/or wrap
(05-05-2024 )JimT Wrote:  From VHT's website:

Quote:Curing FLAMEPROOF™
VHT FLAMEPROOF™ Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to instructions on the can).

On the Vehicle:
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minute
Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes

Off the Vehicle:
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes

This brand makes a 1300° and 1800° furnace paint. I cant vouch for the use on exhaust parts but i can tell you the 1800 is way better than the 1300 at holding up to extreme heat. I have the 1800 on a grill and a coal furnace. Both of the them i baked to these exact specifications as directed using a blow torch, temp gun, stop watch and some finesse. They have both held up incredibly well for years now. The grill sits outside and not a speck of rust and i had both accidently glowing hot. Its definitely some good stuff.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze




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