Isx help

[W9gator]

Hello everyone new here . I have a 2016 isx cm2350 yes its demandated no I do t want to hear it . I can see on here the feelings of them
Not going to change anything now anyways. I've had the truck for 3 yrs now and it's run great no issues was getting 6 mpg running 3.25 gears 13 spd anyways recently had it at the dealership because regular shop was too busy . They did a dot and a overhead adjust because it was due and also replaced exhaust manifold because it was leaking. Well they found my cac was leaking to so replaced that. Got truck back and have had nothing but issues with it since. This was about a month ago now. I lost almost 2 mpg on fuel and am now running higher turbo boost . Took it back and let them have it
They ran e tire fuel test came back said my fuel pump was the issue amd that when tech ran overhead must've did it wrong because exhaust valves were tight . Their words not mine. Well replaced fuel pump thank God as it had the dreadful ceramic plungers in it and they were still intact luckily. Dealer assured me that would fix my issues well it hasn't. I did pick up about .5 mpg on fuel but haven't gotten back close to the 6 mpg mark. Oh truck is a w9 studio so I'll take 6 mpg all day every day. My question is what to look for next? My tune is not out of a box and the local guy that did it is well known for doing good tunes . He is even recommended by some of the dealers in area. That being said doesn't meanuch in the end. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of this quickly. The dealer wiped out all the active amd inactive codes but the big thing is I never had a light come on or even active codes. It's been a month since they wiped them out amd I still have no codes showing up. So recap I was getting 6 mpg fuel and running between 30 and 38 psi for boost uphill flat ground was 10 to 15 psi . Now I'm at like 4.7 mpg amd 40 to 50 psi up hills amd 20 to 30 psi flat ground. Oil temp is always around 210 215 amd water only hits 210 once in awhile pulling hills. Any help is appreciated even my normal shop is scratching their heads because no codes. Also I pulled map and exhaust sensors amd replaced both . I'm running maintenance free crankcase all new fuel and air filters since it started. My normal shop said engine seems to be strong nothing in oil sample amd checked blowby couldn't even get 7 inches of water out of it. Engine has 745k on it amd has never been opened up except to do overhead .

Thanks everyone [/size]

[marek4792]

Based off your boost levels alone I'd say your delete is bad unless the turbo is stuck in a certain position. Send your file to Rawze and atleast have him look it over. Many new people come here thinking their tunes are good and the parts are garbage when it's the complete opposite...

[SquareOne]

What are you using to monitor boost pressure? Thats a load of boost psi! Are you sure the gauge is accurate?

Also, I know you don't want to hear about the tune file, but that IS most likely your biggest issue currently. Would most likely be a different truck with the proper adjustments.

What are you hauling with your setup? Even though the rears and the big nose are def. hurting you, I can't imagine 6mpg or less as an average being something to be ok with....unless you do oversized or some heavy haul??

[Rawze]

It seems that your first post on this thread has some kind of serious defensive stance towards whoever did your de-mandate programming. That is never a good thing, yet many people who first discover and join the forum here tend to do this. This is usually because they somewhat think that everyone is trying to get something out of them, typically $$$ to 're-do' their delete perhaps?.. who knows... .. but I can assure you this is NOT the case.

Around here, .. I do everything for FREE, therefore there is absolutely no incentive or reason whatsoever for me to go around and tell everyone that comes onto the forum here that they have bad programming. It serves no purpose to do this, so if you have seen thread after thread of me telling people that their programming is in fact bad, and/or me telling them right away to have it reviewed, then that is exactly what it is ... Having it reviewed because 90%+ of all de-mandate programming is in fact very bad. It is an absolute plague in the trucking industry as a whole that is well beyond out of control.

THIS IS A HELP FORUM ... NOT A FORUM THAT GOES AROUND AND TELLS PEOPLE THEIR S$IT IS BAD, SO THAT I CAN MAKE $$$ OFF OF THEM!. ... IT DON'T WORK THAT WAY AROUND HERE!.

This place is for getting genuine help that is not biased toward anything at all except to ACTUALLY HELP PEOPLE WITH THEIR TRUCK PROBLEMS.


Now back to your issues...

Everything that you have described about your engine and its boost levels so far, both before any repairs, and after ... actually directly points towards possible bad delete programming. ... So unless your willing to put aside your closed eyes and stubbornness, .. there is no one on here that can help you.

... And if you have been running that truck for a long time with that kind of bad over-spooling, over-boosting programming that you have described so far, then well, ... I hope like all h#ell you have the moneys saved up for that pre-mature inframe, because progressive damage due to bad programming is a very real thing.

You say it was getting to 38 psi boost before the repairs. - THAT IS VERY VERY BAD for a de-mandated CM2350!!!. it is a clear sign that the turbo is over-spooling and over-boosting, and causing harm to the engine. A clear red flag that something was wrong to begin with... I don't care who made the program. That kind of excessive boost is an engine killer and should have been dialed down RIGHT AWAY and whoever made that program should have been made aware if this.. and should have gone out of their way to help you correct it.

I.E.> A CM2350 ISX-X101 enngine .. even at 600HP+ .. heck.. even at 800+HP.. does not need more than about 34-PSI boost, and cannot take any higher boost pressures than this without A SERIOUS RISK OF HARM to both the turbo and to the pistons. .. So your own post above clearly states that it was severely over-boosting all the time to 38+ after a de-mandate. THIS IS ALMOST ALWAYS A SURE-FIRE SIGN OF IMPROPER PROGRAMMING!.

And AFTER THE REPAIRS, if it is getting to 40+ and higher ... IT IS A WONDER THAT YOU HAVE NOT SPLIT A PISTON IN HALF, or burned a hole thru one yet!.


THOSE KINDS OF BAD BOOST PRESSURES (even at 38-psi) is pure engine abuse! and serves no purpose except to contribute towards an agonizing death to the engine.

So.... yes ....

FIRST THINGS FIRST!!!>.. weather or not that you suspect your programming is NOT the issue, or that it might be, ... the first thing to do is prove, or to disqualify the programming itself, as everything you posted above points directly towards this more-so than anything else actually.

- Like others have already clearly pointed out.. copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it to me so that it can be properly reviewed. If it is not harmful as all h#ell (like the symptoms you describe, both before and after the repairs).. then it will exonerate itself.

And if it is bad ... then that is the first place to start, because otherwise, you are just wasting your time and chasing your own tail on nothing but blind guessing.

It COSTS NOTHING to have the program reviewed ... and IT COSTS NOTHING to even have it straightened out if it is in fact bad, for people willing to do some things like copy their own program in/out of their ecm for themselves,... which quite frankly,.. is not very hard to do.

Copy the program out of the ecm and e-mail it to me for a proper review of what someone did in there.
Info on copying the program out yourself: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid72945

[W9gator]

Let start by saying I apologize if I seemed defensive wasn't my intention. Just didn't want to hear what I possibly expect already amd what seems to consistently be repeated.

... {Part of post removed by rawze} ...

So with the boost before it was demanded meaning fully stock everything intact it was boosting anywhere between 30 amd what I cam tell from gauge 38 as there'd no little marks on my gauge it just reads in 10 psi increments. And it would get that high during a climb pulling a load. Not that tatters with the psi being high as you are saying. I had taken it to the dealership to have
everything gone over told them near 40 psi seemed high they said typical and that's all they said

... {Part of post removed by rawze} ...

Please let me know on how to retrieve that stuff for you and where to send it amd I'll get started on it right away and thank you for the help.

[Rawze]

(05-15-2024 )W9gator Wrote:  Let start by saying I apologize if I seemed defensive wasn't my intention. Just didn't want to hear what I possibly expect already amd what seems to consistently be repeated.

... {Part of post removed by rawze} ...

So with the boost before it was demanded meaning fully stock everything intact it was boosting anywhere between 30 amd what I cam tell from gauge 38 as there'd no little marks on my gauge it just reads in 10 psi increments. And it would get that high during a climb pulling a load. Not that tatters with the psi being high as you are saying. I had taken it to the dealership to have
everything gone over told them near 40 psi seemed high they said typical and that's all they said

... {Part of post removed by rawze} ...

Please let me know on how to retrieve that stuff for you and where to send it amd I'll get started on it right away and thank you for the help.

AGAIN ... YOU ARE NOT LISTENING!!!.

I also deleted most of your last post because it is .. again.. being blinded and stubborn and making excuses. I left part of your post because, there is more that you clearly still do not understand. .. so I will explain.


What you are being stubborn about is mostly the fact that your truck WAS ALWAYS IN FACT SEVERELY OVER-BOOSTING after its de=-mandate... which also keeps leading you down this dumb path in your head somehow of "my old program must not have been that bad" kind of blind mirrored garbage thoughts. I don't know if it is bad or not, BUT IT IS SEVERELY OVER-BOOSTING .. HAS BEEN THE WHOLE TIME IT HAS BEEN DE-MANDATED (well above the max of 34-psi for a cm2350 according to your own posts), MEANING THAT SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE FIXED!. - THAT IS WHY YOU CAME HERE TO BEGIN WITH!.

I will address this, as it is the proper thing to do, since you seem to not understand all of the things that I said above.

YOU ARE NOT CONSIDERING the very real fact that it is perfectly normal BEFORE THE DE-MANDATE that 38+ psi boost IS IN FACT NORMAL... because as much as 40% of this is egr gas, inflating the intake boost readings by as much as 5+psi or more!!!.

Once that egr gas and those cans are removed .. and the engine runs on nothing but clean oxy-rich air. - 38 PSI BOOST WILL OVER-SPOOL THE CRAP OUT OF THE TURBO once that egr is switched off + EVENTUALLY KILL THE ENGINE DUE TO EXCESSIVE COMPRESSION RATIO AND EXCESSIVE FRICTION!!!..

THAT MUCH BOOST ON A DE-MANDATED CM2350 CAUSES HARM TO THE TURBO OVER TIME (over-spooling) .. AND IT CAUSES SEVERE HARM TO THE ENGINE OVER TIME TOO! (progressive damage) ... AND IT EVENTUALLY CAUSES SOME SERIOUS EXPENSIVE FAILURES!!!> like failed turbo.. or blown head gasket (dropped liner) .. or worse!.


SO ... EITHER YOU ARE HERE TO LISTEN AND GET SOME HELP WITH DOING THINGS RIGHT TOWARDS GETTING IT CORRECTED, ... OR YOU ARE HERE TO KEEP DISAGREEING LIKE A FOOL .. at which point I will swiftly KICK YOU OFF HERE to save you from your own damn short sighted stubbornness!!>

WHAT IS IT GOING TO BE!!??./. BECAUSE I HAVE NO PATIENCE FOR PEOPLE WHO WANT TO DRAG S#IT OUT FOOLISHLY AND ARGUE away at things based on bad information they have been fed in the past.

... AND AS FAR AS WHAT THE IDIOTS AT THE STEALERS$IT SAID TO YOU.. THEY ARE BEYOND GODDAM$N CLUELESS!. Those morons don't even know what an engine operating mode is ... Nonetheless know squat about the proper boost levels, or engine operating modes, proper fuel-air-mix, etc.etc.etc.etc. for a de-mandated engine would be. He^ll they don't even know these things for a factory engine!. Or what the he#ell the different engine modes are even for in your model engine (or any other cummins engine for that matter)!. They are not trained to know a damn thing past following a troubleshooting tree that is only about 30% accurate on its best day, and reading a manual on how to change parts! ... EMPTYING YOUR WALLET IN THE PROCESS!!!.


I POSTED A LINK ABOVE on how to copy the program from the ecm. Do that and e-mail it to me for a review.

I hide nothing whatsoever .. so if you want me to go over it LINE BY LINE with you, (translating it into plain damn English for ya) .. I will do so, AND YOU CAN COME TO YOUR OWN DAMN CONCLUSIONS ON WHAT SOMEONE DID AND HOW WELL THEY DID IT IF YOU LIKE!. It don't matter to me ... I do this all the time with people on here.. so don't take my word for it.. LOOK WITH YOUR OWN EYES!. HECK.. HAVE THE GUY WHO MADE THE PROGRAM JOIN IN AS WELL IF YOU LIKE!>

.. but regardless of all of this conversation, something has to give, and to be corrected, to get those engine and turbo killing boost levels under control, first and foremost! .. and since it is demandated.. it has to start by ensuring the programming is 100% correct and set for the make/model truck that you have.

again...
Get that program copied out of that ecm and e-mailed over to me. Buy a cheap-o chineese inline5 or inline6 adapter, and get yourself set up with an old laptop if you need .. or find someone that can help you get it copied out that already has these things, .. I don't care.. but that is what needs to happen next, to move forwards with it.
again, more info on copying it out... ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid72945

[JimT]

You came here looking for help and you're getting it. You may not like the answers, but our engines don't run on good feelings. They run on science and engineering and an ever increasing amount of logic (computer) programming. I've only been on here for 4-5 years and I've seen countless people join, ask for help, then argue that the answers couldn't possibly be right because ... *feelings*. Some will follow through and eventually solve their problems and some others just can't accept that they, or the information they've been given, are wrong - they don't want to learn or grow. Most of the regulars on here, myself included, started out the same way, with a problem looking for help. You won't find the answers to every problem on here, but the collective knowledge and experience is priceless.

Stupid question, I know you said the dealer replaced the exhaust manifold and the CAC, did they use OEM parts or did an aftermarket part get swapped in? Simply fixing your possibly long standing exhaust and boost leaks by replacing the manifold and CAC could account for the higher boost pressures. But if they used a different CAC than what was originally in there then that could be throwing things off too. The ECM is programmed to expect very specific parts and bases many calculations on the parts it expects to be installed. It's one of the biggest problems with the cookie cutter deletes because those programs rarely match all the parts, both inside the engine and out. And that's before any changes need to be made for the actual delete to take place. You would think the dealer of all places would use OEM parts... but it's bad to assume anything these days.

Also, if you go browse through the Bad Delete Collection thread you'll notice that one of the other big reoccurring problems is that many deletes block or hide fault codes from being reported. Not just on the dash but also from diagnostic tools like Insite or JPro or whatever. This leads people to think that everything is fine when in fact it isn't.