CM2350 factory file comparrisons...

[Rawze]

(05-07-2024 )Matrix2613 Wrote:  I do have to check on the rear ends, but this one is set up with an automatic. Drives like a car and my brother in law seems to like it better then the cascadia he was driving before.

You could add more power but it is not going to cure much of anything as long as it has those horribly spec'd rear ends and auto=-s$itter tranny that is h#ell bent on lugging it to death. Most of these auto-s$itter trannies are always trying to keep the engine lugging itself to an agonizing death below 1500 rpm's ... and this also makes starves the vehicle of power, as the engine cannot make full power below 1500RPM or so. A shortened engine life is the result.

So... if the truck owner does not like how it bogs down so easily on the hills and such.. then they should not have chosen such a horribly spec'd vehicle with exceedingly tall rears, and an auto-s$itter hell bent on using the lowest rpm possible for all situations.

Also more HP = more fuel consumption and lower fuel mileage if that power is used. Therefore you cannot expect to turn it up without sacrificing fuel mileage .. and in your case.. longevity too from poor truck specs.

The more power, also, the faster you will have emissions systems issues, as those mid-tier trucks often do not have DPF/DOC units installed on them designed to handle big-tier 500+HP power levels. just something else to consider as well.

Personally.. I would suggest re-gearing the rear ends to something decent for pulling (3.79's or 3.90's perhaps).

I would actually turn the torque DOWN (while keeping a decent HP level) to force that tranny to use higher rpm ranges when pulling hills too. That or somehow get that tranny reprogrammed so that it keeps the engine in the 1500-1900 rpm range all the time. To go with this, disable the gear-down protection, etc. so it can use those ranges in lower gears ... but that is just me.

All that being said... still.. the program HD10313 is absolutely a dog of a program even in this context ... as it is only set for 400HP.

The next step up that is 100% compatible is either going to be a 450HP program, .. or a mostly compatible 500HP program. I would have recommended a 475hp or 485 hp program before going all the way to 500hp on it. There is however no factory pre-made 475HP or 485 HP programs that are 100% compatible with the same vehicle and engine spec requirements as the HD10313.

The 450HP program is HD10317, and is 100% compatible (what I would recommend).

The 500HP program is HD10321, and is 100% compatible,.. but it does have slightly more strict DPF/DOC settings in it before a fault occurs, or a regen is required. Otherwise, even the emissions systems are set the same.

Many of the other programs in the CPL4342 group are far less compatible, as they have different vehicle requirements like different J1939 network expectations, and all kinds of other stuffs that is vehicle make/model/brand specific.

[Matrix2613]

I'm good with 450hp! Not wanting to win any races, but don't want to be the last one up either.

In my view, the more things change the more things stay the same. An N14 set at 460 is a million mile engine, at 525hp your lucky to get 600k.

I'll look into gearing at a later date, most of my flatbed trucks have 3.58s or 3.73s, with my heavy haulers at 3.90 or 4.10.

I prefer manual transmissions as well with everything else in my fleet being 13 or 18 speed, but old school truckers that can row their own (or should I say, can do it well) are getting harder to find.

Appreciate the info, will give the HD10317 program a shot.

Also have it on the to do list to do a decent overhead, egr cleanup, and fuel pump in the near future as it hits 400k

[Matrix2613]

Update, Truck has an hd10696 calibration loaded. It looks like the calibration is obsolete. It is I did update to HD10317. Will let you know of how the truck behaves after a few days!

[Scaner2]

Hi everybody,
I'm new on this forum, already found many interesting things about our trucks. Thank you everybody posting here interesting info.
I have an isx15 cm2350 on a Volvo truck with 700k miles on it. Bought it at 600k miles and not thinking too much about ratio what is 3.42 10 speed manual. Previous truck had 3.90 with 10 speed manual and was perfect for me. I'm not driving usualy more than 65m/h and with actual configuration have a problem... In 9th speed can go max 55m/h at 1600rpm an in 10th one at 1500rpm already 70m/h. This truck working local -regional no mountains and 55-65m/h speed what is usualy required is hard to cover with proper rpm range 1400-1650. If rise rpm more than 1700rpm i don't like engine sound, seems too much... Not ready now to invest in a 13 speed transmision or another diferentials with higher ratio. Thinking first to try maybe another calibration with diferent torque/rpm rate. Right now this engine have ef10053.47 cpl3937 with 450hp/1650rpm all systems in place(not demandated). I need an advice of what calibration else can be used for this engine. Thanks.

[Rawze]

(06-20-2024 )Scaner2 Wrote:  Hi everybody,
I'm new on this forum, already found many interesting things about our trucks. Thank you everybody posting here interesting info.
I have an isx15 cm2350 on a Volvo truck with 700k miles on it. Bought it at 600k miles and not thinking too much about ratio what is 3.42 10 speed manual. Previous truck had 3.90 with 10 speed manual and was perfect for me. I'm not driving usualy more than 65m/h and with actual configuration have a problem... In 9th speed can go max 55m/h at 1600rpm an in 10th one at 1500rpm already 70m/h. This truck working local -regional no mountains and 55-65m/h speed what is usualy required is hard to cover with proper rpm range 1400-1650. If rise rpm more than 1700rpm i don't like engine sound, seems too much... Not ready now to invest in a 13 speed transmision or another diferentials with higher ratio. Thinking first to try maybe another calibration with diferent torque/rpm rate. Right now this engine have ef10053.47 cpl3937 with 450hp/1650rpm all systems in place(not demandated). I need an advice of what calibration else can be used for this engine. Thanks.

If it does not like the higher rpm then its because no one has driven it there much before. You could drive it at 2100 all day long and not hurt it.


Also, with 780k on it.. its time for a lot of maintenance like rod/main bearings and all kinds of other stuffs.


- and if it is de-mandated, then the program needs to be checked out/ reviewed to ensure it is not harmful too... as more than 90% of them are. If it is then copy out the program and e-mail it to me for a proper review of what someone did in there. That would be far more important than anything else actually.

[Scaner2]

(06-20-2024 )Rawze Wrote:  

(06-20-2024 )Scaner2 Wrote:  Hi everybody,
I'm new on this forum, already found many interesting things about our trucks. Thank you everybody posting here interesting info.
I have an isx15 cm2350 on a Volvo truck with 700k miles on it. Bought it at 600k miles and not thinking too much about ratio what is 3.42 10 speed manual. Previous truck had 3.90 with 10 speed manual and was perfect for me. I'm not driving usualy more than 65m/h and with actual configuration have a problem... In 9th speed can go max 55m/h at 1600rpm an in 10th one at 1500rpm already 70m/h. This truck working local -regional no mountains and 55-65m/h speed what is usualy required is hard to cover with proper rpm range 1400-1650. If rise rpm more than 1700rpm i don't like engine sound, seems too much... Not ready now to invest in a 13 speed transmision or another diferentials with higher ratio. Thinking first to try maybe another calibration with diferent torque/rpm rate. Right now this engine have ef10053.47 cpl3937 with 450hp/1650rpm all systems in place(not demandated). I need an advice of what calibration else can be used for this engine. Thanks.

If it does not like the higher rpm then its because no one has driven it there much before. You could drive it at 2100 all day long and not hurt it.


Also, with 780k on it.. its time for a lot of maintenance like rod/main bearings and all kinds of other stuffs.


- and if it is de-mandated, then the program needs to be checked out/ reviewed to ensure it is not harmful too... as more than 90% of them are. If it is then copy out the program and e-mail it to me for a proper review of what someone did in there. That would be far more important than anything else actually.

Thanks Rawze for your response.
It is not de-mandate. Still have on it stock calibration updated to last version and all aftertreatment systems intact, operating ok. I undestand what some work have to be done on it because of 700k miles but still running ok with steady and smooth engine sound. Changing oil(and all oil-fuel filters) every 15k miles. In the last 100k - EGR valve and EGR line-pipe cleaned, all sensors in this line replased, 7th injector cleaned, DEF doser and filter replased, VGT turbo and fuel pump replaced.
Consumming some oil 3-4gal in 15k miles. Next i think to check valve adjustmentg and valve seals.

[Rawze]

(06-20-2024 )Scaner2 Wrote:  ...
Thanks Rawze for your response.
It is not de-mandate. Still have on it stock calibration updated to last version and all aftertreatment systems intact, operating ok. I undestand what some work have to be done on it because of 700k miles but still running ok with steady and smooth engine sound. Changing oil(and all oil-fuel filters) every 15k miles. In the last 100k - EGR valve and EGR line-pipe cleaned, all sensors in this line replased, 7th injector cleaned, DEF doser and filter replased, VGT turbo and fuel pump replaced.
Consumming some oil 3-4gal in 15k miles. Next i think to check valve adjustmentg and valve seals.

- You should do ALL scheduled and recommended maintenance on it regardless of how you 'feel' about it.. or regardless of how often you change your oil. It is not based on opinion, .. it is a mechanical device with well established needs if you want it to keep running and it not put you on the side of the road without warning.

Rod/main bearing are due (first time) at 800k miles.

Fuel pump (second time) re-build is due at 800k miles.

Overhead valve adjustment (shouold be for the third time), is due at 750k miles.

Crank shaft damper due at 500k miles..

.. and the list goes on and on.

== Skimp out on ANY OF WHAT IT NEEDS and you will see, predictably, the expens$ive results will plague it at some point, is what follows.

[Scaner2]

Because of 700k miles already on it, some noticiable blowby, and 1gal oil consummtion at every 3-4k miles i think it's time to be prepared for an inframe. During this inframe i will do also a part o the recommended maintenance listed above to be cheaper all toghever.
Thanks.

[walterk]

Please somebody correct me! Inframe at 700k miles? That's insane! Somebody really, really didn't care about this engine. Does it have a lot of hours?
I had engines that would not take that much oil after over a 1.5 million miles( Detroit 60, Cat 6nz). As a matter of fact, my cm2350 started to really pull good at around 350k-400k miles! That's how much time it took to brake it in!