High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #1
High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
First I would like to start by saying thanks to everyone that contributes to making this site a success from administrator and all the way down to the youngest members. This website is very beneficial and contains valuable info. I hope it stays around for a long time.
I am a newbie & I am an owner of an 07 Volvo VNL670 with a 565 HP ISX CM870. I would really appreciate any help on this following matter. The main problem is that when I'm bob-tailing or loaded, and I attempt to take off and start driving, the boost gauge goes up to 20-25 psi and then after a few seconds you hear a loud "pssshhhhht" or you get the whooooosshht sound (as if one of the inter-cooler boots came off or has a loose clamp or it's as if somebody just smashes your inter-cooler with a sledgehammer) and power just drops within seconds and boost gauge drops down to 5-7 psi on my boost gauge within 5 seconds. My EGT starts to creep up to reach 800 to 1000 degrees. I lay off the pedal or else the temperature will just keep on climbing. It will not do this at idling or while revving it up to around 2000 RPM. It has to be in gear and in motion to do all that and that's what makes it difficult to diagnose. I am getting around 3 to 4 MPG at best, which really sucks! All this happens with no derating of the engine and no check engine light. I have also noticed that my fan is always on and does not shut off (all A/C lines have been disconnected when replacing CAC and it is not the A/C line pressure switch). A friend mentioned to me that the line that feeds the fan is the same line that feeds the turbo air control valve for the turbo actuator and the fan may not be getting enough air pressure to disengage it due to some kind of an air leak. I don't know if it is related to my main issue.

I can not find the source of the whooshing sound. I have replaced the inter cooler with a Dura-Lite inter-cooler(best on the market). I have replaced the boots and clamps and pressure tested the system from the turbo outlet to the last boot on the intake, with no air leaks to be found. I thought it may be my turbo actuator, but that is also working fine and moves the way it is supposed to with no air leaks. I have ordered a DORMAN EGR Valve #904-5001 and should be here in a few days.
What can it be? Did anyone ever have any of these symptoms on their truck? pictures are available if needed. I am open to any suggestions or if there is an existing thread that addresses these issue please direct me to it. Any help is highly appreciated!!!
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #2
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
I am no mechanic, but i know first hand rawze the administrator of this forum, hates DURA-LITE. He will tell you to get rid of that piece of junk, duralite. Also you like using aftermarket parts Like Dorman egr, very bad idea. Stay with cummins part's. Rawze will be able to help more with this situation.


User's Signature: It's hard to win an argument with a smart person, but it's damn near impossible to win an argument with a stupid person
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #3
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
(10-07-2016 )VNL670 Wrote:  First I would like to start by saying thanks to everyone that contributes to making this site a success from administrator and all the way down to the youngest members. This website is very beneficial and contains valuable info. I hope it stays around for a long time.
I am a newbie & I am an owner of an 07 Volvo VNL670 with a 565 HP ISX CM870. I would really appreciate any help on this following matter. The main problem is that when I'm bob-tailing or loaded, and I attempt to take off and start driving, the boost gauge goes up to 20-25 psi and then after a few seconds you hear a loud "pssshhhhht" or you get the whooooosshht sound (as if one of the inter-cooler boots came off or has a loose clamp or it's as if somebody just smashes your inter-cooler with a sledgehammer) and power just drops within seconds and boost gauge drops down to 5-7 psi on my boost gauge within 5 seconds. My EGT starts to creep up to reach 800 to 1000 degrees. I lay off the pedal or else the temperature will just keep on climbing. It will not do this at idling or while revving it up to around 2000 RPM. It has to be in gear and in motion to do all that and that's what makes it difficult to diagnose. I am getting around 3 to 4 MPG at best, which really sucks! All this happens with no derating of the engine and no check engine light. I have also noticed that my fan is always on and does not shut off (all A/C lines have been disconnected when replacing CAC and it is not the A/C line pressure switch). A friend mentioned to me that the line that feeds the fan is the same line that feeds the turbo air control valve for the turbo actuator and the fan may not be getting enough air pressure to disengage it due to some kind of an air leak. I don't know if it is related to my main issue.

I can not find the source of the whooshing sound. I have replaced the inter cooler with a Dura-Lite inter-cooler(best on the market). I have replaced the boots and clamps and pressure tested the system from the turbo outlet to the last boot on the intake, with no air leaks to be found. I thought it may be my turbo actuator, but that is also working fine and moves the way it is supposed to with no air leaks. I have ordered a DORMAN EGR Valve #904-5001 and should be here in a few days.
What can it be? Did anyone ever have any of these symptoms on their truck? pictures are available if needed. I am open to any suggestions or if there is an existing thread that addresses these issue please direct me to it. Any help is highly appreciated!!!


YES: The same air supply line that feeds the engine fan circuit on a lot of trucks ALSO feeds the Turbocharger for the CM870's. VERIFY THE PRESSURE with a test gauge while test driving it. 90-PSI is the MINIMUM pressure allowable at any given time.

YES: YOU ROYALLY F##KED UP BY BUYING THAT CRAP JOB OF A DURA-LITE CHARGE AIR PIECE OF SH$T COOLER!!! -- YOU HAVE BEED DUPED BY BAD MARKETING AND BRAINWASHED CRAP AFTER-MARKET COMPANIES!!! --- GET THAT FUEL SUCKING CRAP SH$T OFF YOUR TRUCK ASAP!!!
Dura-CRAP Referenxces:
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...41#pid3441
and...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...94#pid2794
as just a start.

YOU THINK YOU TRUST AFTER-MARKET CAC and EGR CRAP!!?!! -- READ AND LEARN FOR YOURSELF!!!
After-market EGR coolers: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...02#pid2802

STOP JUMPING OVER A DOLLAR TO GRAB A DIME!!! -- THE TRUCKING INDUSTRY DOES NOT ALLOW FOR AFTER-MARKET CRAP, BAD MECHANICS, AND PEOPLE WASTING THERIR MONEY ON IDIOT DECISIONS AND MORON MECHANICS!.

============


Stop guessing at your problems and wasting all your time and money trying to save a few bucks on crap that don't work and morons who don't know how to fix a truck. -- And if you disagree with what I have said here, and are one of those nickel-and-dime mother f##kers who is always trying to "cheat" and save a few bucks above doing the right thing --- Then go back to TTR where you belong and stay off of forums that actually care and try to help people in actual profitable ways. This forum is about doing things the right way and making an actual long term profit,.. NOT about saving a few bucks because some asshole off some XM radio or some ignorant idiot in a truck stop convinced you to buy CRAP!.

**** GET THAT AFTER-MARKET CAC CRAP OFF YOUR TRUCK ASAP!!!-- RIGHT AWAY! And go back to the OEM CAC cooler.
===================
As far as the EGR valve goes,... Either spend the money for an OEM one or get with Unilevers and/or Gearhead on the forum here and get that thing de-mandated the correct way.

==========

As far as your A/C problem goes,.. Draining the systerm to ZERO PSI WILL IN FACT cause the engine fan to run all the time on some model trucks. I am not 100% sure on Volvo in particular, but on a lot of trucks, it needs to see 50-PSI minimum in the A/C circuit to shut off the engine fan. They are that way to protect the truck in case the high pressure switch goes bad and reads zero. You should be able to hook up to the truck with Insite, etc. and see why the fan is on fairly easily.


=============

As far as your boost going to almost zero,.. I HOPE YOUR NOT TRYING TO HAUL FREIGHT LIKE THAT -- IF SO -- YOU ARE COOKING YOUR INJECTORS AND KILLING YOUR ENGINE!!! -- Don't be an idiot,.. then come crying on here later on and asking WHY you got a cracked head and 5 leaky-ass injectors!>

YOu should take the damn thing to a shop that can pressure test the WHOLE ENGINE and NOT just the damn CAC unit etc. -- You will likely find your problems much more effectively. It is not rocket science or some voodoo magic. It is simply a matter of using the right methods for finding your issues. Mr. Hag's shop in Atlanta can do this,..--- hell, I even have the stuff at my house to do this. -- It sounds like you are likely to find that an EGR circuit is your culprit, but no one here has E.S.P..

After that -- DO A LEAK-TEST on your injectors and make sure you ahven't cooked them!. Here is a video on how to do this.




User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: fargonaz
10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #4
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
I have seen something similar to this about 10-12 years ago...
It was also one of those unbelievably wonderful DuraLite ... ahem "Best on the Market" CAC's.
DuraLite doesn't, or at least didn't used to, weld in the cooling tubes. They use a rubber grommet to seal the cooling tubes into the header manifolds. What occasionally can happen is that the grommet gets nicked, the manifold doesn't get cut right, or after time gets weak, and then holds seal until pressure forces it out of place breaking the seal. Breaking the seal takes more pressure than holding it open, which makes it difficult to find without pressure testing the CAC.
DuraLite's used to be made in Calgary, AB and I've been to that facially before they moved the manufacturing to Mexico. The idea of using a grommet is good as it allows the tubes to flex in the manifold without cracking like OEM welded, but the problem is in order to have enough grommet material to hold seal under pressure they have to space the cooling tubes further apart. This means less tubes, which equates to less flow capabilities. Trucks with large CAC's don't show the effects as much trucks with smaller ones. The smaller the CAC, the larger the percentage of drop by the reduced amount of tubes.
We've asked DuraLite to make one for the T800/C500 wide hood. These trucks have massive CAC's. They are designed for heavy loads at slow speed so the CAC in them is probably the same size or bigger than the rad in a VNL, and because our sister company uses the C500 as Prime Movers they flex the crap out of them so they wanted to give this option a try. They won't make it because it can't meet the air volume low speed heat exchange demands required. What does that tell you?


User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..."
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #5
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
(10-07-2016 )VNL670 Wrote:  First I would like to start by saying thanks to everyone that contributes to making this site a success from administrator and all the way down to the youngest members. This website is very beneficial and contains valuable info. I hope it stays around for a long time.
I am a newbie & I am an owner of an 07 Volvo VNL670 with a 565 HP ISX CM870. I would really appreciate any help on this following matter. The main problem is that when I'm bob-tailing or loaded, and I attempt to take off and start driving, the boost gauge goes up to 20-25 psi and then after a few seconds you hear a loud "pssshhhhht" or you get the whooooosshht sound (as if one of the inter-cooler boots came off or has a loose clamp or it's as if somebody just smashes your inter-cooler with a sledgehammer) and power just drops within seconds and boost gauge drops down to 5-7 psi on my boost gauge within 5 seconds. My EGT starts to creep up to reach 800 to 1000 degrees. I lay off the pedal or else the temperature will just keep on climbing. It will not do this at idling or while revving it up to around 2000 RPM. It has to be in gear and in motion to do all that and that's what makes it difficult to diagnose. I am getting around 3 to 4 MPG at best, which really sucks! All this happens with no derating of the engine and no check engine light. I have also noticed that my fan is always on and does not shut off (all A/C lines have been disconnected when replacing CAC and it is not the A/C line pressure switch). A friend mentioned to me that the line that feeds the fan is the same line that feeds the turbo air control valve for the turbo actuator and the fan may not be getting enough air pressure to disengage it due to some kind of an air leak. I don't know if it is related to my main issue.

I can not find the source of the whooshing sound. I have replaced the inter cooler with a Dura-Lite inter-cooler(best on the market). I have replaced the boots and clamps and pressure tested the system from the turbo outlet to the last boot on the intake, with no air leaks to be found. I thought it may be my turbo actuator, but that is also working fine and moves the way it is supposed to with no air leaks. I have ordered a DORMAN EGR Valve #904-5001 and should be here in a few days.
What can it be? Did anyone ever have any of these symptoms on their truck? pictures are available if needed. I am open to any suggestions or if there is an existing thread that addresses these issue please direct me to it. Any help is highly appreciated!!!
Don't take offense to what Rawze said. He just wants you to hear that POP. The sound of your head coming out of your arse. Forget what you have heard and read on other forums, and get to digging on here. Best ISX guys on the planet here. We have all been where you are at, and with this forums help most are back to making money with our trucks again.
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #6
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
I would be willing to bet that sound and boost loss is caused by a collapsing intercooler line .
That dura lite will restrict airflow because, believe it or not, the volume of airflow is less because it's thickness and durability.
Maybe someone else can explain it better but that's what's happening.
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #7
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
Id have to chim in and say this maybe due in part to him having a leak in the egr system to. I have saw in the past when going down the road the egr cycles and will leak exhaust and it sounds like a charge air boot leaking. It has a shield there so its hard to see but take a really good light and look for exhaust soot ....
Or try and unplug the egr (for test purpose only) and see if it still does it then you will know.
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #8
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
Rawze I may not know you as a person, but I appreciate what you do on this forum and YouTube. Sir you have no idea what I am going through financially to get this truck up and running the way it was before this problem started happening. And i am not seeking sympathy! I am seeking knowledge and assistance in this matter. I am receptacle to criticism as long as it is constructive and not demeaning.
With that said, I would like to say that at this point the dura-lite CAC is already in the truck and the Dorman EGR has been ordered and paid for ($1000 for both). All I am trying to get out of the CAC and EGR is 4 to 8 months and then I can switch back to OEM ISX parts as these after-market parts fail. The airline to the fan will be tested tomorrow morning to make sure pressure is at 90 psi or above. The mechanic did mention that insight said it was off and air was coming through the line to disengage it, but I don't know if the pressure was high enough to get it to disengage the fan. I should find out tomorrow. And the A/C will be back in service also by noon. The truck was put out of service immediately when this started to happen so I highly doubt there is any damage to the injectors. It is mechanic and my self that are working on the truck and I live in the DFW area in Mansfield, Texas. It is times like this that I wish I was closer to Atlanta to have you guys check it out.
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10-07-2016, (Subject: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP. ) 
Post: #9
RE: High EGT, No Boost and a major boost leak!! PLEASE HELP.
(10-07-2016 )Mr Hagg Wrote:  Id have to chim in and say this maybe due in part to him having a leak in the egr system to. I have saw in the past when going down the road the egr cycles and will leak exhaust and it sounds like a charge air boot leaking. It has a shield there so its hard to see but take a really good light and look for exhaust soot ....
Or try and unplug the egr (for test purpose only) and see if it still does it then you will know.

Will give it a try tomorrow and update you with the results. Thanks for the tip.
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