Where to get part numbers ?

[montrose818]

Good folks, where can I get the part numbers besides the dealer, for sensors and such?

2015 M2 106 with a cummins ISL

stuff like NOx, exhust pressure, throttle sensors, and such.
{ ebay link removed}
Sensor looks identical to mine, but not sure if there are internal differences?

Much thanks

[J_Rok]

(02-08-2025 )montrose818 Wrote:  Good folks, where can I get the part numbers besides the dealer, for sensors and such?

2015 M2 106 with a cummins ISL

stuff like NOx, exhust pressure, throttle sensors, and such.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387176453962?ch...d_source=1

Sensor looks identical to mine, but not sure if there are internal differences?

Much thanks

Hello, if you have an engine serial number you can get a free Cummins quickserve account and register that serial number on the online account. You can get all kinds of info on that specific engine. If you want a quick rundown on how to get that you can send me a PM.

[windowrattler]

For parts you don't even have to register an account but it's not a bad idea to get service information also. Otherwise https://parts.cummins.com/home and enter your vin or esn in the search bar and voila, parts lookup by vin.

[windowrattler]

My other comment would be that I'd be very very leary about any sensor on ebay. Majority of the cheap "oem" sensors on there are counterfeit and are complete garbage.

The NOX sensor you linked to should cost at least $500+ otherwise it's a knock off. Even the dorman sensor is over $300.

[Rawze]

(02-08-2025 )montrose818 Wrote:  Good folks, where can I get the part numbers besides the dealer, for sensors and such?

2015 M2 106 with a cummins ISL

stuff like NOx, exhust pressure, throttle sensors, and such.
{ ebay link removed}
Sensor looks identical to mine, but not sure if there are internal differences?

Much thanks

Getting ANY sensor or part off flea-bay or any non-oem site is typically a recipe for problems with these cummins engines, unless perhaps it came directly from a wrecked truck. You don't save ANY moneys in the end.

[JimT]

While I can't prove this, my own experience makes me think that many of these ebay/amazon parts that look identical to OEM parts are either unauthorized production runs by the outsourced asian factories OR they were defective parts rejected by the OEM's QC but someone sold online instead of destroying. I think the latter is more common, but both are known to happen across all industries, especially when they include electronics.

Also, even stingy dealers such as Peterbilt WILL give out part numbers in you specifically ask for them. However if you don't buy at least some stuff from them they aren't going to be as willing to spend their time helping you with anything.

[mikkhh]

Not red engine related, but I bought AFTERmarket exhaust back pressure for my Merc 2.2diesel five years ago, the sensor was reading complete garbage and fluctuating like crazy. OEM sensor costed twice as much, but in the end I still bought OEM.

If you want cheap and good you MUST buy cheap part and also good part.

Big rig parts cost difference is even bigger and so is the temptation. Paccar MX13 aftermarket boost sensor was like 20dollars and OEM was 300. The choice to go is OEM, aftermarket price might be tempting but it is not worth the downtime. I ordered one IMAP sensor from official dealer and second from so called reputable parts store. The one from $tealer is latest revision and part code, but the part that is bit cheaper from parts retailer is older revision new old stock. It is common for aftermarket parts retailers to sell new old stock old part code OEM parts around my area. Probably main dealers are not allowed to sell those parts and so they are sold at a discount to big wholesalers.

There was early 2000s GM car that needed turbo boost pressure solenoid changed. OEM was 300, aftermarket was 30. Well since the car was old I was like okay, let's choose the cheaper option. Turbo underboost codes got replaced with overboost. I checked all the vacuum lines again to make sure I did not mess something up and bought next aftermarket solenoid. Still same story, I was questioning myself after that, but symptoms did change a little bit. Well the third or fourth aftermarket solenoid worked. Those are not merely on off solenoids, but they use PWM signal to control the VNT turbo actuator. Lots of time wasted on troubleshooting and also downtime. On a big rig downtime means lost money and there is no wise reason to pick up a penny and lose a dollar when it comes to cheap parts and long term cost.