Threaded Mode | Linear Mode

Waterloo

I have been having a helluva time with my HVAC blower motor up under the dash. I have been installing one to many as of late. Replaced the blower with an old working one, it died. Then bought a new one at International, it died, replaced under warranty. In the mean time, I replaced the dash control head unit and the linear control module, that is pretty much the entire system that controls the blower motor and door actuators, and it was still not working.

Anyways, I tore the dash apart on Monday, chased the wiring and discovered the plug off the the main harness was melted, and no power was getting to the blower motor. I cleaned up these connectors and got the juice flowing through them to the blower motor plug and then stopped! I was not going to fry another new motor, so I called the dealer. I asked service to check for recalls or a TSB on this overheat issue dealing with the HARNESS. Guess what? He pulled up a TSB. They have a jumper cable, ten inches long, plugs on both ends and a resistor in the middle with two pink wires... This is supposed to fix this issue.

This jumper cable goes in between the main harness off the fuse block that plugs into the harness that connects to the blower, linear power module and actuators. As I stated, this new harness has a resistor soldered in to the blower motor power wire. This is supposed to handle this known overheat issue with these blower motors. If you have a ProStar, and if you have not experienced this overheat issue at the fuse block with tripping breakers and or melting 30 amp fuses, you are lucky.

It is a quick install, and you do not need to pull the entire assembly where the blower motor is located. The harness for you blower motor runs along the floorboard and then comes up into your kick panel by the passenger door, where it plugs into the main harness. If your truck is like mine, you should be able to gain access to this plug by simply removing the kick panel, it should be easy to locate and to install this jumper. You will need a 13mm socket and I think a 30 torx bit to get the door sill up to remove the kick panel.

The part itself was $40 at the dealer and was overnighted from Chicago, where there is a healthy supply. If you look on the internet, I found them for as low as $10 + shipping. I would just go with the dealer, so you know you are getting the correct part and some sort of warranty if this thing goes tits up.

The part number is... 3562102C1

If you have a 2007 or newer ProStar, and are having issues with your HVAC blower, go buy and install this. So far so good on mine, my blower now works, and I left it running for quite a awhile. The last time I installed a new blower, it only took a few minutes for it to short out. I have had the blower running for roughly an hour with no issues. I think this jumper was the answer to my problem. We shall see how it goes today when I go back to work.

Update: On my second day with the "fix", everything is working as it should. So far so good, and as of now, I would say that this in-line resistor did the trick.