Trailer hub bearing torque

[Magard]

All the ones I ever did. After making sure the races are bottomed out I tightened them up to where I could feel good drag from the bearing being to tight. To set the seal on the axle. Then I would loosen it and put a little pre load back on it. I don't have a torque spec. More of a feel. I would guess it would feel right at like 35 ft. Pounds. On the inner nut. And find the spot to put the locking ring on with about the preload I wanted. Careful not to have to much preload. Torque the shi#t out of the outside nut. I'm sure there's a spec for the outside nut but I would guess 100 or allittle more. Most of my equipment is old so I'm not sure on sleeved. If you have to much preload it will destroy the bearings. Sleeve would be there to keep the preload from being to tight. I've done a lot of old school trailer hubs this way and I never actually torqued one. If the bearings and races are wore it will seem fine when you put it together and then the wheel seal will leak and you'll think you did something wrong. But you pull it apart and everything seems fine. If your having wheel seal trouble go ahead and change the bearings to and it should stop the problem unless there's wear on your spindle. This is the redneck method. It's served me well. But I learned it from watching so it's hard to type it out. Right...

P. S. the lock ring I'm talking about has holes that you line up with a bump or nob on the outside of the inner nut. You can turn the lock ring over if it's way off it, will change the way it indexes. I also oil the bearings before I start together with it. Just for good measure.