ISX 871 525hp No throttle response

[Rawze]

(03-09-2017 )Biglentil Wrote:  So other day hauling grain on a realively warm day temps around 30f my 2008 kenworth T800 550000 miles Stop Light came on and it went into total limp mode. Got er pulled over just barely shut er down. Shut power off and 5 mins later started her back up. Turned around and she drove home just fine. Was getting a crank case pressure warning on dash. So replaced the crankcase ventilation filter to the open element kind. We had a terrible blizzard so pulled her into the shop for further investigation. Cleaned the IMAP sensor and exhaust pressure sensor. Checked codes only getting one a 4214. Tough to find good info on that one. Also outside air temp not registering on dash tried to find the sensor its not under the mirror i have steel simple ones, and not in the front bumper area. Pulled it out for a test and now stuck in full limp mode no stop light, zero throttle response just idle. Did a forced regen took an hour no improvement. Inspected turbo on intake side seems fine. Pulled egr venturi tube full of coolant explains why truck has been going through some coolant. Egr cooler must be leaking. Could not bust 10mm bolts to egr valve wiggled back n forth for 15mins and stripped the head arghhh. Truck does alot of idling and very short hauls around the grain farm. Ive read the warnings about egr delete but this truck operates in some really cold like up to -40f and hardly leaves the farm. When cleaning grain in winter it has to idle all day. It might get 10000 miles a year and farmers are exempt from safety inspections up here in Saskatchewan. Im leaning towards this delete kit
A local shop called smokem diesel will program Ecu for 2500. Also delete the dpf . What should I do? Thanks in advance!

I have met a hundred drivers or more in your situation... egr cooler leaking,.. facing yet another dpf issue,... some shop with big promises for a few thousand, and a crappy delete kit (if that is what you would call it) ready to destroy your engine in a hurry. -- You,.. I have seen it a hundred times.

Those guys who have posted in this thread warning you are some of those same people and they mean what they say. They have been there.

What typically happens is ... Joe X does not listen very well and is desperate,... they go for the crappy crap dlete kit and the false promises of some crappy dlete from a shop with big names,.. they end up completely regretting it later and having to find someone to do it right,.. paying all over again.

Do yourself a favor. -- Save yourself the first step, wasted money, and destroyed engine parts.... Have some patience and get with unilevers and/or gearhead,... or have someone like Hammerhead or Brock help you a bit, especially since they have offered. Those guys have been in your shoes.

In the mean time, educate yourself on the things you are inquiring about. there is plenty of information and things to know so you don't get burned, because the cards are stacked high against you if that is what you are seeking. Here is some light reading...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...01#pid5901

Maybe gearhead or Uni will see this and respond. Perhaps they have simply been very buisy, sometimes it is just that way. You also have the option to taking it to Mr.Hag down in atlanta if you want to take a trip with it. I visit his shop regularly because i live down the street and can tell you he is top notch too. Can't go wrong there either, but I can tell you for sure. YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE RIGHT THING AND REPLACE THAT EGR COOLER EVEN IF YOU DECIDE TO AXE THE SYSTEM! -- This is because if you use that bulls%#$hit styage crap 2 kit it will unbalance the coolant flow through the engine. The back half of the oil cooler will run hot too. Also, you will get a bunch of head pressure between the water pump and the dead circuit, causing a bit of face-loading. None of these things are a good things at all!. So -- REPLACE THE EGR COOLER and replace the IMAP, Ambient air temp, and exhaust bp sensors like the others are recommending, even if you have delete or not. The engine relies on those sensors for proper combustion and timing offsets. YOU CAN'T JUST GO AROUND AND MAKE THESE NEWER ENGINES DUMB AS A BRICK JUST TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS! .. IT WILL BITE YOU IN THE ARSSE!.

DO THINGS RIGHT -- EVERYONE HERE IS POINTING YOU IN THIS DIRECTION -- OTHERWISE TAKE YOUR COMPLAINTS SOMEWHERE ELSE AND GET TAKEN FOR A FEW THOUSANDS BY A BAD DLETE COMPANY WITH FANCY BIG NAME AND COOL LOOKING WEBSITES leaving you with a crappy running junker of an engine WITH CRAPPY BULL$HIT MODS DONE TO IT. Those shops are everywhere.

Here is a running collection i have started ..
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid13255