bad oil cooler

[Roysbigtoys]

(04-26-2017 )Rawze Wrote:  

(04-25-2017 )ktbtrucking Wrote:  have cm 870, removed all parts today, there was no access/ or limited access to top screws of egr cooler so had to remove exhaust manifold to remove egr cooler
put most of screws into diesel overnight was thinking about oil (give advices for next repair)
have most of parts for reassembly tomorrow
will do some more pictures so it might be helpful for others

will use anti-seize compound on exhaust manifold and turbo-manifold screws
please let me know if you have any thoughts regarding assembly

Just a few things to keep in mind. If I were doing this job I would ...

* New bolts for the exhaust manifold if they are old.

* New coolant pipe bushings for the EGR cooler. They should come with new o-rings installed.

* Polish the inside of the EGR cooler pipes and the feed tubes where the egr cooler bushings go to help reduce possibility of a leak.

* Follow torquing procedures and pattern for oil cooler and for egr cooler.

* Take your time.

* Too much anti-sieze on the exhaust manifold bolts is not the best idea. Only use a very tiny amount.

* Polish and re-paint the exhaust bolt bushings with some hi-temp paint and let them dry before re-installing them.

* A light coating of Anti-sieze on all coolant o-rings, gaskets, and banjo fittings.

* Use a torque-wrench for all bolts including any pipe and/or banjo fittings.

* 75 ft-lbs torque on turbo mounting bolts instead of what the book says.

* Don't forget to re-calibrate turbo if the actuator on top was removed from it.

Like I said. Just some considerations on how I would do things. I don't like doing a job twice.

Rawze I want to know the reason why you recommend using only a very tiny amount of anti seize. As a man this goes against everything I know......more is always better...lol.