Smoke from my exhaust ~~~{{{{{{{

[Rawze]

(06-04-2017 )Vlad Wrote:  Hi everyone! I have black smoke from my exhaust. Also my DPF has a soot from outlet. My truck is after rebuild but I didn't change injectors but I wish to try. Nobody knows what course smoke but dealerships and others saying me you have junk DPF if smoke is on outlet of DPF and some issues with engine. My truck has 500,000 miles on it. I drove only 15,000 since I purchased it. Each week I was broke down. I spent 30,000$ already on repairing. Sad story isn't it. But ...who had black smoke? Maybe someone has experience with that. Thanks for your shearing!

First of all, if the emissions system (EGR, DOC, DPF) is all still intact, it is possible to get black smoke past the DPF can and out of the stack but there are only a couple reasons...

1) The DPF can is cracked and failing.

AND/OR

2) The engine is making a LOT of black smoke, so much so, that the DPF cannot trap it all.

If I were looking at one that did this and I owned it, I would ...

**> Do a compete EGR tune-up and replace all the sensors (like IMAP, Delta-P, exhaust bp, & others) that were older then 200k miles. About $300-$400 bucks later, this is cheap insurance for maintaining decent fuel mileage. Lots of sensors will read bad and cause problems/make engine run bad long before ever throwing any kind of faults for them.

**> Pull off the DOC and DPF cans, BOTH and take pictures of their faces. Inspect them for coolant and/or oil intrusion, etc. and check them for cracking or uneven filtration (uneven buildup of soot on the face). I would have them sent off and baked, cleaned, insopected, and flow tested before putting them back on. -- Again, a few hundred bucks later and you know what condition they are in.

**> Pull off the EGR valve and clean it out, ensuring its movement is good and that the actuator is ok. If the EGR valve sticks in an OPEN or somewhat open position, there will be no fault codes for it in Insite.

**> Clean out all the EGR piping, the crossover tubes for the Delta-P sonsor and the crossover tubes for the DPF Delta-P sensor. Replace the Delta-P on the DPF can and rubber bushings for it if old.

**> Replace the Doser injector if it is more than 200k miles old, otherwise, clean the tip very well and ensure it is not covered in soot.

**> Look at the regen history in Insite and see how healthy the emissions system it is.

**> Perform an overhead adjustment if it has been more than 250k miles since last done,.. or in your case, if it was just inframed, do it at about 20,000 - 30,000 miles after the inframe. - And inspect it for cam wear or other problems.

**> Check all the intake and CAC piping and pressurize the whole engine between the air filter and the exhaust of the turbo, checking for leaks in everything from the CAC, the EGR piping, the air compressor, manifolds, etc.etc.etc.

**> do a thorough inspection of the exhaust piping and joints to ensure there are no leaks in the exhaust. This will cause clogged DPF and other problems. Exhaust restrictions will also make engine run bad and make excess black smoke just like intake problems do.

**> Perform a leak test on the injectors, and do an inspection of the fueling and timing actuators.

**> Use Insite to verify fuel pressure and turbo positioning and other things and do cut-out tests to help determine health of the engine.

**> Crank the engine with the doser pipe behind the turbo disconnected so that you can inspect it for fuel and/or coolant leaks and seapage while engine is running. Very common problem that gets overlooked.

**> Perform a forced regen when everything is all back together on the now cleaned and inspected/flow tested DOC/DPF cans to ensure that system is operating properly.

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There are solutions to most problems. It is an engine. It is not voodoo magic,. -- The TROUBLE is that most people are too damn lazy or in a hurry to solve their issues properly, and then complain and get to the point of frustration before they do things right. Stealershits and shops are masters of the "triage" type or repair tactics that only solve half a problem and could care less about how healthy your engine and truck are -- THAT IS UP TO YOU, THE TRUCK OWNER AND NO ONE ELSE!

Don't take shortcut after shortcut and try to guess and dance around the fact that shi#t NEEDS TO BE DONE THOROUGHLY AND CORRECTLY! -- Because when you take the time to do things right,... there is no more guessing and wasting of time and money.

Just my own thoughts on it,.. and BTW: -- This is exactly what I would do to a truck if I had just purchased it, long before putting freight behind it. - I like to know very well what I have when holding that steering wheel and not be wondering when it is going to break or leave me somewhere stranded. No money in that.

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STOP DUMPING shi#t PRODUCTS INTO YOUR FUEL TANKS AND WISHING FOR MIRACLE LIQUID CURES!! -- IT IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN!. -- HERE IS A LIST OF CRAP PEOPLE PUT INTO THEIR TANKS AND HOW MUCH WEAR AND PROBLEMS THEY MAKE!!!!
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...622#pid622