CM871 things to check after purchase?

[Rawze]

Buying a used truck with that many miles is like buying a used house --- AFTER it has some tennants in it that abused the hell out of it.

You should have expected to spend about $3000 on repairs just to get it reliable again. Trucks do not get sold because they were still profitable. Expecting it to be profitable out of the gate is a pipe dream that everyone seems to believe after they talk to that salesman.

* Pull the valve cover, run the overhead, and inspect those cams. That will tell you a lot if especially if you pay attention to the lobe wear, etc. and running clearance of the engine brakes to their detent position.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...783#pid783


* Plan on replacing the crank shaft damper very soon, the fan clutch, belts, idler pulleys (if needed) etc, on the front of the engine.

* Pressure test the coolant system to a full 20 PSI, fix and leaks, and drive it hard around the block a couple times to ensure it is not building excess pressure too quickly (bad head/gasket).

* Plan on replacing the batteries soon, especially if they look old, or are mis-matched.

* Run the A/C for at least 30 minutes to ensure it is not faulting out. It takes about 15 - 20 min for the A/C to fault out if the thermistors are bad. Very common problem.

* Plan on re-torquing the axle bearings. It has to be done every 200k and no one seems to ever take the time to do it until they loose hub seals, bearings, and have all kinds of wear problems in the rear axles.

* Check the inside of the crank case filter cover. Look for green or yellow slime (coolant intrusion).

* See if the turbo is still factory red, or if it has been replaced. They only last about 600k miles or so, and if it is still factory red,.. you had better have some money saved up for when it goes out.

* Pressure test the entire engine and fix any leaks like the CAC, intake, EGR circuits, Exhaust header gaskets, etc.

* Fix any leaks in the exhaust piping, especially the flex pipe behind the turbo. It will not regen properly unless it is well sealed.

* Immediately REPLACE the IMAP and Exhaust Back-pressure sensors on it.

* Replace the oil in it after at 3,000 mile intervals for the next couple oil changes. GET THAT SOOT out of that motor.

* Replace the Coolant filter, and replace the oil IN ALL GEARBOXES.




* Have an injector leak test dopne, a cylinder cut-out test etc. and determine health of the injectors and actuators ...

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...619#pid619

AND If you want/plan on leaving the regen system functioning ...
* Pull the DPF and DOC out and take pictures of their faces. Make sure they are BOTH clean. Never take the dealers word for it,. they ALWAYS claim they replace the DPF, It is a selling point and is a useless statement.

* Do a FULL EGR Tune-UP and plan on replacing the EGR valve at 600k miles if it is still origonal. they do not last forever.

* Replace the Doser injector, and the DPf Delte-P sensor too. Clean out all the crossover pipes at the DPF and replace the rubber bushings where they meet the sensor too.

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INSTALL AS SOON AS POSSIBLE! -- Boost and Pyro gauges into that thing.

READ MY BOOK, - Print and FILL OUT THE ENTIRE Maintenence schedule that is there for a Prostar. You will catch a lot of problems before they shut you down by doing so, and you will have a good base-line.

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Sound like overkill? -- You should ask yourself if your in business to actually make money? -- or Lolly-gag around and complain when it goes down on you?. Your choice.

There is a reason why there are so many successful people on this forum. They have already gone through most of this and are now on top of it all.

Tags:

ISX Purchase, Truck Purchase, EGR Tune-up, CM871 Purchase, byuing a truck, buying used truck, used truck, checking a turck