cm2350 turbo

[Hammerhead]

(08-24-2017 )Unilevers Wrote:  at 30 psi boost your not running 625hp, i can tell you that.

that motor can be made to do what you want, it just costs money.

-lower compression pistons
-fire ring the head
-cryogenic treated head bolts
-hand torqued head with care taken
-he 551ve VGT turbo
-induction hardened rod and crank
-oil pan girdle
-shim the oil pump up
-better flowing intake
-flow the exhaust better and wrap as much as you can
-a auxiliary fuel pump that has adjustable pressure to flood the high pressure pump
-a good tune

that setup will run 700 wheel HP day in and day out for as long as you want, but as you can see its a serious undertaking if you want it to live. the only real weak spot is the head, which will have to be replaced once in its life.

2350's wont survive well past 600HP under high duty cycles in stock form. they just dont.

Ok I'm putting down the beer and popcorn, Uni I have a few questions...

So in a wet liner engine, where are you cutting the fire ring, In the head or the liner?
If your cutting it into the head, where is the ring crushing, the liners top surface or the block deck? Pictures?
Who are you getting to cut these for you?
If it's in the liner, no problem I'll cut them myself in my own lathe.
I built a head centering device to mount Harley heads in my lathe and I cut them for O-ring head gaskets. I have to start with a slightly longer cylinder because you lose the thickness of the head gasket as well the head gets a recess the full diameter of the liner, and the cylinder gets cut below the deck surface so the ductile liner protrudes into the head with .002 interference, and the O-ring groove is cut into the cylinder where the liner ends and the (aluminum for street and steel for racing) begins. Never had a head gasket issue, even when we pushed over 20:1 with nitro.

Where are you getting the rods and crank induction treated, and if your cryo'ing the head bolts, why not the crank and rods as well?