Flywheel housing gasket replacement

[Hammerhead]

(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote:  First of all, I’m jealous-of the garage, equipment, knowledge, and time you have to do this. I do a lot of stuff in my residential driveway, but I stop at pulling transmissions, and that. And the truck doesn’t fit in my garage, so not much work gets done outside in the winter (Massachusetts).

I here ya, that's why renting a shop is part of my business plan, it allows me to do stuff like this. As far as the time, I hadn't planned it to take this long, but life has interfered and I am taking/have taken personal time outs because of that and it is making this drag out, but that's ok because she's worth it.

(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote:  But I just arranged to drop off my truck for the very same thing (to a good independent shop).It’s not real bad yet, but I want to catch it before it gets worse.

I hate the fact that I'm a damn perfectionist! I am at the point I've had so much subpar work done, I just don't trust anybody to do a half decent job anymore so that's why I'm doing this, I wish I knew of one I could trust like you.

(01-09-2018 )the missing link Wrote:  Your a good man hammer although I am sure your going WTF right about now , just think of the hack job she would have got not to mention all the shi#t they would have missed just about anywhere up here .

Thanks buddy...WTF is the PG version of how I'm feeling. I've got lots of beer and Forty Creek if you're in the neighborhood...

I'm replacing anything that isn't right. I spent a few hours cleaning last night and again today, so Mrkentee you are far more intelligent than me, I left this for too damn long, it's a mess in here, and I'm paying for it, I don't think my floor will ever be clean again!
Free advise time; don't be a Hammerhead! Replace this gasket at first signs of leakage!
I replaced all the hiem joints on the clutch linkage because a couple of them weren't good, and now is the easiest time.

(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote:  They will do rear motor mounts, and probably rear main seal. My clutch is only two years old. I don’t plan on replacing it. Maybe replace pilot bearing and throw-out bearing. My trans functions ok. I wish I had money to go through it like you are. (825,000 miles).

Rear motor mounts are removed to do this job, so replacing them only makes sense, it adds 0 seconds of labour and only costs the parts, so now is the time. The rear main seal is compromised and is also replaced as part of this job.

I wouldn't reuse the clutch if I was you. It's one thing to reuse a clutch if you have the tools, jacks, and equipment to replace it yourself, then it's just your time & cost of parts when you do have to replace it. However if you are paying someone to go in there for you, then not replacing the clutch is "tripping over dollars to save nickels" as Rawze says. Once again, it must be removed to do the job, so it's only cost of parts and it's about 12 hours of labour to replace it in a year or if you're lucky two. Do the input shaft, clutch shafts and fork, because you're there. If you don't pull over 100k lbs, trannys rarely require any service for well over a million miles, so you're ok not going through it, but I couldn't in good conciensious advise you not to do the clutch.

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I was astonished at how badly my flywheel housing was cracked! It's cracked everywhere! The motor mounts showed wear, but they were by no means collapsed, the bolts seemed tight, I did use an air impact to remove them so I didnt actually feel their torque, but I can't explain all the cracks. My OEM housing is marked "Made in USA" and the OEM one I got from the wrecker is marked "Made in India" and the casting is much smoother, like not even close!
   

So I found a mystery O-ring in the oil cavity at the back of the block pushed partially into the drivers side oil rifle! Talk about feeling jitters! It's clearly been in there for quite a while as it was hardened solid. I have used Baldwin filters for several years and wonder if this is one of the O-rings from the infamous shitty batch of Fleetguard oil filters that were famously coming loose and plugging up piston cooling jet nozzles and taking out motors. I pulled an O-ring out of a Baldwin filter sitting in the waste filter bin, and sure enough I can ply it to match the inner dia of this O-ring. I have no idea what F/G uses now, but the Baldwin filter O-ring is easily twice as thick as this one, so I'm still not 100% sure, but I am 110% sure damn happy I found it when I did! There were wear marks from the machined edges of the oil rifle, and this O-ring would certainly have broken in a matter of time and I'm sure cost me a lot of sadness & money.

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(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote:  What about your oil pump? I was thinking of that, too.
Should I change the oil pump? I think I should probably do the trans also.

I wouldn't worry about your oil pump. The ISX oil pump is just a basic gear pump, and there isn't much to go wrong with them, so I'd leave it until inframe time. Besides, an oil pan can be removed in very little time compared to a tranny, so if it's the funds you're trying to figure, I'd do the clutch for sure, then if funds/time allow the tranny now, and later drop the oil pan if/when you experience oil pressure/flow problems. I've had this truck's tranny out only once before for a clutch job. The oil pan, I've had off about 5 times for routine inspections, it's really no biggie to R&R a pan.