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Rawze

(07-31-2018 )DDB Wrote:
(07-31-2018 )DDB Wrote: Thanks for responding. A couple of questions though:

1) Are the fuel pump issues confined to the 2250/2350, or do they include the 871?

2) 871 engine is found on 2007-2010 model trucks, and 1/2 of the 2011's -- I think. The key is the 871 has DPF but no DEF tank whereas the 2250/2350 has DEF. Is this correct?

edit - looks like some of the 2007's are gonna have 870's (no DPF)

Looking on truckpaper it seems you can find one of these for $15-25k w/650-850k+ miles that are still making money. So I could put it on the road for awhile before the inevitable rebuild. This is definitely an idea to consider.

Even with the cost of rebuilding I'm well below what I currently have budgeted for a truck.

Downside I guess is that everything else on the truck would have more wear and tear, also. So I'll be replacing a lot of other things sooner than I would on a 2014-2015 with 400k miles.

Still, long term I believe this approach would be more economical, all things considered. Especially if it maximizes fuel mileage.

1) -- No fuel pump issues like the 2250/2350's on the CM871's. - On my own truck, although it is likely overdue for some parts replacements, my entire fuel system (IFSM- Integrated fuel system module) is bone stock original with 1.3 million miles on it. This includes the electric fuel pump, solenoids, valves, gear pump,.. every bit of it. Only thing preventative I do on mine is that I use a DAVCO with a 10-mocron filter and big bottle of diesel-kleen about once a month in the tanks religiously (as per this reference: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...622#pid622 ).

2)- you are correct. DPF only engines. They were the worst for DPF problems/ soot buildup in oil leading to chewed cams, but a very well done de-mandate later (if you live in a foreign country that allows it), and they just run without any issues when well cared for.

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As far as reman goes ...

Look at blo-by and also run the overhead adjustment, checking for good detent clearance ( second half of this post: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...66#pid9466 ) while your at it. It is the heads that wear the most.

Also look for oil leaks around behind the front gear cover where it meets the head on the intake side. Any oil leak there and it is a sign of the cam bearings in the head worn to the bone.

An oil leak in the back just below the head is usually a sign of someone driving the snot piss out of the engine in its past, causing the flywheel housing to get warped, leading to the oil leak.

As far as the reman itself, look for signs that the head is worn out., excess blo-by, etc. Look for coolant pressure buildup under full operating torque and when engine brake is on high. Those are signs that a reman is needed ASAP. If all is good, it is like a worn down tire. You don't change it just because it is showing its age. You get a bit more life out of it and look for the signs of it being ready. - Throw a gallon of 85-140 gear lube in it at every oil change and don't drive it hard. Get that last 100+k miles out of it before in-framing it if you can and replace all the other junk like shocks, u-joints, etc.etc.etc. making it into something glorious again.

My own truck has more than a million miles on it and everyone who looks at it and even drives it will swear it has less than 200k. Even the tranny and shifter is tight like a new one after that many miles. I keep after it very very well and it has always been good to me in return.

I would however at a minimum, replace the rod/main bearings as a safety on an older ISX for prevention of a wrist pin failure (recommended at 800k miles). That is what gets many of them when they are neglected, and when it happens the block is trashed.

just my own random thoughts on it at the moment anyways.