New CPL# for rebuild

[Rawze]

(02-21-2019 )NoTime Wrote:  What is it they should be milling on the block so I can keep my eyes on them? I know about the .014 liner sticking up past top of block but I thought the just shimmed under the liners to get that measurement right.

Also I asked if I should go to a twin element oil cooler and they haven’t answered yet.

I really appreciate the help Rawze I’m just here for help and to help in anyway I can. I’m no power hungry guy by any means it’s just business to me. I have only had 1 quarter on my IFTA over 5 MPG with the 450 and I never had a quarter under 5 with my old 2007 600 2050 870. Unfortunately the company I lease to has yearly requirements on trucks or I would still be in my 2007 that had 1.3 million and never had the head off. Hate technology!!!

Single oil cooler element is fine. Only time second oil cooler may be needed is if the engine spends hours and hours at a constant very high engine load. Decent de-mandate programming also has a lot to do with maintaining proper oil temps. 90% of the time people have high oil temp issues, it is because of bad de-mandate programming most of all.

Counter-boring + shimming the liners is the correct way to set them to 0.014" height. Never machine down the block or head mating surfaces, the front gear train does not have any real allowances for this even if it was done right. I know of people who have been there and tried it already when trying to save etched block or head, the results were not good.

sounds like your trying to over-think it,.. perhps to get something better than what you have,. but really, the best thing to do is go back with all OEM parts + brand new head. -- built it right, hand torque everything. Do all the things recommended by this forum, as there have been hundreds of ppl on here that have already followed these paths and figured all this stuff out the hard way. - Set yourself up, and do all the things for building up it into a true million mile engine, nothing less.

* All OE on the internals/parts.

* ALWAYS counter-bore it and set liner height to 0.014" - 0.015" and within 0.001" error from front cylinder to back.

* The head procedure has steps to torque the head bolts to 300-ft.lbs,.. then to turn the bolts another 90-degrees. -- IT DOES NOT MENTION HOWEVER that a person needs to hand torque the head to the 300-ft.lbs just like the manual says to -- BUT LET IT SIT FOR 24-HRS, and RE-TORQUE IT AGAIN to 300-ft.lbs the next day (some guys report getting as much as another half turn out of the bolts sometimes),.. THEN, only after that second re-torque to 300, do you perform the final 90-degree turn on the bolts. -- Most shops do not let the head sit a day before applying that final 90-degree torque,.. this weakens the head-to-block connection, can lead to a weakened liner crush (fretting later on) or can contribute towards a crack in the head due to uneven pressures. - (call me picky but) I myself, also do the final 90-degree torque by hand instead of with an impact. This is because some of the bolts, you can feel they want to go a bit further than 90-degrees, especially the bolts that are under the cams.

* Shim the oil pump with 6 dimes(if it is the old style), or get the updated one that just came out by cummins that provides the higher pressures. -- 45-48~PSI is where you want to see it going down the road or when engine is cold.

* check and mic all the rod and main bearings as they come out + check their part#'s. They are removed,.. it is random what size bearings you need and it can be different from one cylinder to the next.

* check to ensure you put the right liner size back in it, it can randomly be either 150mm or 152mm liners.

and after---

* 1 gallion of 80/90 Gear lube at every oil change.

* Change oil at intervals based on fuel consumption, not miles.. - I noticed you said you change oil at 15,000 intervals, yet you asay your at 4 mpg,.. this is bad. At 4 mpg, you should be changing that oil every 8,000 miles. (ref at the bottom of this post: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...617#pid617 ).


my engine re-build series is a treasure-trove of info on ISX and how to properly reman one...




-- Watch my engine re-build series, educate yourself, I talk a lot about this kind of stuff. There is a whole lot to building one of these engine the right way but it seems that too many people have lost this skill, or don't want to take the extra time of day for it, and it is a downright shame.

When one of these engines are built the right way, and all OE parts are used for the internals,.. they run, and they run well without any problems for years and years / million miles if cared for properly.