Buying a 2012 MaxxForce w/N13? v 2011 FrtLnr w/ DD15

[NoTruckYet]

I AM ON A LIMITED PURCHSE BUDGET. I am thinking of buyin the MxFrc - here's why. - My question: "Is the MaxxForce N13 SO BAD that I would choose a truck like the 500k-600k Freightliner with no maintenance history which may / may not need in in-frame over the International with it's complete maintenance records and oil analysis records for the past 12 oil changes?"

The details:

Truck 1
I have read mostly (95%) bad information about the MaxxForce. The other 5% says is a good value if you can keep the EGR demons at bay.

A local NHRA dragster team has a 2012 MF N13 with 361,000 miles. DPF only, no DEF. They have owned it over 100k and had ECM connection repairs (Diamond renew?) done at International as preventative before they experienced any EGR issue, oil changed every 10k miles, and NEVER let it idle. (It is equipped with an 8kw diesel generator to power auxialliary A/C on top of truck and other electrical items)

Oil GCMS analysis done at EVERY oil change shows soot at 1, no coolant / water, FE, other contaminant issues and withing "NORMAL" ranges.

I took truck on a 100 mile test drive with a 30,000lb trailer. Great power had no problem holding 85 MPH on I-10, and overall fuel economy on dash was 7.3 mpg.

The team is METICULOUS about maintenance. They bought this when their Freightliner ToterHome caugh fire and are now getting a new toter.

The primary driver said that the truck does not regen frequently as I would have expected, rather every 'few thousand miles.' It did REGEN when I parked it. With the low soot measurement, the EGR seems to be working properly. He also gave me a list of what the truck will need in next 25,000 miles including steering knuckle or alignment or tie rod end on front driver side as tire is showing steady even wear 1" in from outside of tire on the first stripe of tread. Rear drives recaps with good tread and even wear but I am concerned about date codes and may need to replace all rear.

Recent repairs include fan clutch, aformentioned EGR wire connections, shocks, 2 new rear tires which were replaced in pairs and placed on opposite sides so even diameter on both sides of axles, cab shocks, front brakes. Started out as a temporary replacement for the TOTER as it was being repaired, but TOTER was totalled and they removed a set of cabinets, installed a toilet, sink, and small fresh and waste water tanks to service them at track. They got tired of no shower at some tracks and going back to the Toter - FYI.
The price is $19,500.

Anecdotally - I met a MaxxForce N13 driver at fuel island. He said that his company has around forty MxFrc N13, 2010-2012 models. They buy them, fix the wiring issue, get a high-flow EGR cooler when the original fails or leaks, always upgrade the EGR valve right away, change the oil frequently and drive them over a million miles. They DO NOT take the trucks to the OEM dealer, and suggested I carry wrenches and not be afraid to learn "how to fix your own truck." I asked "Is your name Rawze?"

Truck 2 is 2011 Freightliner Midroof just under 600k miles on a DD15 which can be had for $24,950 +$5,000 warranty. The Kenworth dealership knows little of the maintenance and suggested I buy a $5,000 bumper to bumper warranty. Super Singles on the rear, no oil sample or maintenance records available. VIN 1FUJGLDR1BSAY5041

I see Rawze drives a similar vintage ProStar with a CUMMINS, and I am better at diagnosing electronics than your average guy. I actually like the way the International drives, quiet, smooth, etc. I was driving a 2019 Peterbuilt as a company driver, and truck kept dying due to apparent manufacturing process errors, air lines and sensors literally falling off. I started having problems in the first 25 miles of stopped driving it with less than 2,000 miles. I thought THAT truck was complete junk and rattletrap.