Leaking ProStar sleeper windows...

[Waterloo]

I did this repair myself last year, it works, no leaks. I had a nice write up but it is lost, so this is off the top of my head from memory. Enjoy!

This is a real problem with these trucks, take it to the dealer and they want an arm and a leg and your two front teeth to install a NEW window... You do not need a new window unless it is broken. What you need to do is find and fix/seal the old window. You cannot do this from the outside of the truck, all of the work is in the interior of the sleeper and will take patience as this job is a pain in the ass. And do not drink while attempting this fix, you will appreciate a cold one once this job is finished. It took me roughly 6 hours to do one side. If you are on the road and this leaking window is driving you nuts as it soaks your interior, about the only thing I can suggest short of tearing the truck apart is tape off the window around the gap on the exterior of the truck so that rain cannot get in. Short of that, I know of no other temporary fix. You will see what I mean when you get your window out.

Here is how to fix it yourself.

You will need some tools and a 6' ladder.

Trim removal tools, these will work https://amzn.to/2rQVz2I

I also used a ratcheting wrench, you will need one of these to get the nuts off of the backside of the window! I think it was an 8mm or 10mm. The space you have to work with is going to be very tight, unless you gut the entire interior, which will include removing the bottom bunk. Trust me, you don't want to go there, just go buy yourself a ratcheting wrench! Sears and Lowes sells them. If you do not know what a ratcheting wrench is, here you go, and the shorter the better... https://amzn.to/2r7JFB5

You will also need a 14mm socket/ratchet and extensions. I used a standard 6" one and my two foot extension for the cabinets.

You will also need something to stop the leak, use this product, it is what I used and it works...


https://amzn.to/35CSotM
All of this stuff is available at your local auto parts store if you don't want to order off of the internet. I bought all of my stuff locally at the mom and pop auto parts store in town.

If you have a ProStar mid roof you will need to remove the upper bunk to get to the window, as I saw no way around it. The guys with the tall sleeper, I believe you will not have any issues and can leave the upper bunk intact. I Removed my UPPER bunk by myself and squeezed it out the passenger door. It now resides in my garage. It was a real pain in the ass to get out with one man. If you want to reinstall it, you will need two people if not three. So be aware before you start this project. The bottom bunk stays intact, don't even go there.

If you have upper wall cabinet(s), which you do, they/it will have to be removed too. Once you start the interior panel removal you will see how easy the cabinet(s) come off the wall. You will need a 14mm socket and ratchet extensions. The base cabinets are left in place, you can work around those.

If you have the mid roof, remove the upper bunk. There is a rubber gasket surrounding the window, just pull that off and set it aside. Use those trim removal tools and very carefully start removing all of those little plastic fasteners. On the back wall, I also removed the HVAC control panel. I pulled all of the plastic fasteners on the window side and on that half of the back wall. I did not remove the panels, but got them loose enough to where I could get to the two dozen or so nuts that hold the window in behind the interior paneling. All you are doing is allowing yourself enough room to work behind the panels, they will not come out unless you remove the bottom bunk. Don't go there. And be gentle with the interior wall panels, they are very fragile as you will see. That one wall side panel at the head of your bunk is $800, so be patient.

Undo all of those nuts holding the window in, and be careful not to drop any, or you will be going to the hardware store! LOL! The window latch stays on the window, don't mess with it, as it has nothing to do with the leak and or removal of the window.

When you get all of the nuts off using your ratcheting wrench, go outside the truck and get on the ladder to remove the window. I gently worked the window out. It is plastic, so be patient and take your time! When you get it out, put the glass side down on a towel covered bench so as not to scratch the the glass, scrape off the foam that is on the outside edge of the frame. When you see this foam factory gasket, you will understand why these windows leak. Scrape it all off and clean any old glue off with some mineral spirits or paint thinner. It comes off easily, so no need to get dramatic.

Now, take that butyl 3M window seal and place it where that foam gasket material was. Start at the bottom side of the window at he latch! You do not want any leaks where the ends will meet up. Apply the butyl in one piece, do not cut it or piece it together! Get that in place and reinstall the window. Press it in, the butyl will act as an adhesive if you do not have a helper. Install the nuts, and I would suggest tightening the nuts in a star pattern as you would when installing a wheel on a car. The interior panel of the window is plastic, and I am sure the older it gets it becomes brittle, so take your time and tighten gently.

Now, put everything back together, your leak is fixed! Now you can have that beer, as you have EARNED IT!

Hope this helps!

Tags:

prostar windows, prostar side windows, prostar bunk wet, prostar side leaking, prostar cab problems, window leaks