How much gear lube to add?

[Rawze]

(07-06-2016 )Brock Wrote:  I questioned the validity of rawzes gear oil claim. I am a synthetic man and run mobil delvac 1 le 5w30 whixh is a full group IV/V synthetic and not one of those "severely hydrocracked" group III b.s. synthetics that most people buy.

The reason I questioned his claims was because I think under the same principle as the bypass oil filter people.... Contaminants are what causes engine wear which is why rawze always recommends a bypass filter. I believed (and still do) That rawzes great success with his engine is due to amazing tuning which has the engine cleaner than ever thought possible, a amsoil bypass filter to take out whatever contaminants do arrive and a very rigorous oil change regiment.... I think personally that this is more to take the credit then the gear lube, He could probably run recycled vegetable oil from burger King and still have a nice looking motor.

But here's where it all changes. I pay $1350 cdn for a barrel of my oil and that's with a great discount, whereas I could fill my barrel with normal delvac 15w40 for $600 cdn.

I don't extend my oil changes just cause I run synthetic soi am spending way way more money on lube yet rawzes engine looked a million times better then mine does. He didn't even need to replace most of the parts he did in his rebuild whereas my motor at a million miles is about ready to explode. Why ever it works, it works and it works cheap.

It's a little late now as this motors nearing a teardown but I have switched to the gallon of gear lube... and I can't believe it cause I am very synthetic!

Results don't lie my friend.

What you may be missing from that equation is the fact that the gear lube add a bunch of zinc, molly, etc. that gearboxes and engine also like. It increases the overall hydraulic pressure rating of the oil without adding too much viscosity, and that reduces wear to many components. It also adds a bit of sulphides (some say thats bad but I have proven otherwise), and the sulphides prevent dry-starts. My old pistons and wrist pins sat in a corner of the shop for 2 months and they were still so slick, just leaning them a very tiny bit to the side, and the wrist pins would slide right out like you had just poured oil all over them again. Other pistons from another engine were there and they were already starting to rust/were dry as a bone.

All I know is that it worked so well for me and my engine, that I would not consider anything else at this point. To me, I think the results were as good or better than anything else I have ever seen anyone do, and 80%~ of every ISX truck owner I have ever met that did high dollar synthetic + extended oil changes, no matter how well they kept after their bypass filters and sampling,.. ALWAYS ended up with chewed cams. The problem is that most of them are too damn stubborn to admit what they are doing is damaging because of all the brainwashing by the people who push that stuff off onto their victims.


Lastly,... here is some food for thought ...

Put your super-duper synthetic engine oil in your tranny or rears instead of tranny lube and see how long it lasts. I bet it does not make it 200k miles without some serious wear issues. -- What would that tell you?