No wiring diagram

[Waterloo]

(10-25-2019 )DDlighttruck Wrote:  

(10-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  I have added two separate circuit panels/boxes in my truck. I would do it as it really cuts down on the wiring mess, and you will not have to worry about running out of room or getting creative and causing even more issues. Each panel in my truck is running direct from the battery, each have their own grounds. No issues to date, and they filled up quickly. So, if you think you will need 5 circuits, I would get a box that can handle at least 12.

How are these set up? Are they switchable? I’d like to be able to use the factory fuse/relay/switch to control the skirt lights if possible

Myself, in my truck, I actually had to go this route, as I am out of accessory circuits in my main panel, along with the interference the truck was sending to my stereo.

This may be a bit overkill, and some of you will agree that it is, and it is, but this is what I would do...

Keep in mind too, that you can add extra electronics to this sub panel anytime down the road. It is much easier to wire into these sub panels than to tear your dash apart every time you want to hard wire something. I look at it as future proofing, though it can be a PIA to install if you have never done this type of stuff before or do not have the proper tools and supplies.

For a panel, I like the Blue Sea units, solid construction and built for life in a truck, and there are many options available. Stay away from the cheaper panels, been there and done that, these Blue Sea units are the best I could find after messing with the cheaper stuff. This is the Blue Sea panel I installed...

https://amzn.to/31LzX3l

For the switchable relay, I would use something like this, https://amzn.to/2WhS688
The wiring diagram is in the photo section of the relay I linked to above. Pretty simple stuff, just take your time and terminate the wiring properly. Use the "Normally OFF relay with Positive Trigger" diagram to wire into your truck, that way it will switch on and off with the key. The item marked "Device" in the diagram will be your new sub panel. You can then just wire direct off the new sub panel.

To tap into the ignition so everything works with the key, I had to use the Navistar Bodybuiler schematics to find a switchable wire at the ignition. You can tap into the fuse panel too, find an open circuit that runs off the ignition switch. It was easier for me to find that wire in the dash and tap than to dig into the fuse panel.

For the power feed, I would run 8ga cable, I like to use the car stereo stuff, very flexible and easy to run. Run cable from battery into cab or side box to relay. From the relay run cable to the new sub panel. For the sub panel ground, use 8ga, find a spot near the panel that you can ground to, like the floor panel or firewall, etc. Grind off the paint, use a self tapping screw or ground lug. You will need to ground the relay too, some 14ga or 12ga wire should suffice, terminate with an eye connector, grind off paint, secure with self tapping screw or a nut and bolt.

That relay I posted is good up to 200 amps, so you should not have any issues there either. I would install an 80 amp inline fuse at the battery box too. This one will work, https://amzn.to/2pX41w0

Here is the cable, 8ga

https://amzn.to/2pfQpfc
The above is CCA cable, meaning it is copper clad aluminum. Some guys like pure copper, I don't see the need for this application, and the CCA is less expensive.

Wiring up the lights, you will have a hot wire from the panel to your switch in the dash, and wire out from the switch to the lights. Ground appropriately at the panel or outside the truck to a frame or body ground point.

It looks like a lot of work, but in the end, it really is a time saver to do this depending upon your truck. My ProStar is a PIA to add wiring to, to do it right, like the factory did. And pretty soon, you run out of open spots, which I have.

And remember, you can put that relay anywhere in the truck, along with the panel. Just put them someplace where it is easily accessible and out of the elements.

On a side note, you can probably get away using 10ga cable. I like using the 8ga due to the fact I do not have to be concerned with anything overheating and the inline fuses are much cheaper than the 10ga ones I have looked at in the past. 8ga is just a more common cable for parts and accessories for these applications. Just wanted to mention that if anyone was wondering.

I hope this helps and or answered your question.