ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)

[JimT]

Biggest cost will be the turbo, if it really is leaking as they state. You could save a bit in labor by doing all the work yourself, but the parts list seems fairly accurate. You also need to go through and do the EGR tune-up. Replace those sensors and take a good look at all the air intake and exhaust recirculation parts. Could have an underlying problem that caused your turbo to fail (again, assuming their diagnosis is correct), such as restricted air flow, bad EGR valve, problems with the EGR cooler or just really bad sensor readings.

If you're keeping the emissions system then you'll need to pull off the DPF and DOC, have international clean and flow test it (that was a good price they quoted for that). You will need new gaskets and band clamps for the DPF when you reassemble it. While you're at it might as well replace any other gaskets and clamps between the turbo and DPF to eliminate leaks. Fix any missing or broken exhaust hangers as this will cause leaks around the gaskets. Remove and clean or replace the DPF doser injector, gasket and thermal isolator. That is a huge contributor to low DPF temps during a regen, as is a faulty EGR valve.

All this work can be done yourself, but you will need Insite to reset the computer when you reinstall the cleaned DPF and, if i'm not mistaken, you also need Insite to calibrate the turbo when (if) it's replaced.

As someone else pointed out you'll need to check and clean or replace your CAC if it has been collecting oil from the turbo.

Most folks on here recommend YTS turbo's. I have no experience with them so search the forum for more info.

As someone else pointed out you may want to just take it over to Price Diesel. They might be able to help with a better solution for your emissions problems too.