| 2014 KW W9 Requiring Manual Regen Every Day!?? |
| 03-15-2020, (Subject: 2014 KW W9 Requiring Manual Regen Every Day!?? ) Post: #6 | |||
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| RE: 2014 KW W9 Requiring Manual Regen Every Day!?? YOUR PROBLEM IS NOT YOUR TRUCK -- YOUR PROBLEM IS YOU AND YOUR ENDLESS NUMBER OF BAD DECISIONS!!!!! and if you do not wake the he@ll up and start coming back to reality real fast, then you are better off going back as a company driver. -- You have squarely placed yourself in that well known 85%-bracket of first time owner-ops who loose their arsse and do nothing but struggle because of bad decision after bad decision after bad decision. <- this is exactly what you have done to yourself. This is what I see in your post so that you, and others in the future that find this place can learn from it. You can choose to piss it away, argue it and keep that head in the sand and keep making bad decisions,.. or you can take it seriously and lean something. -- SO FAR, you have been living in some kind of pipe dream world of a business model it seems. This does not fly in trucking. There is no room in trucking for "what I want (for whatever stupid reason)" vs... "What is going to make me a decent profit". Especially as your first truck... especially if you do not know what the hell you are doing,. and this is clearly the case. Someone has to be some kind of lunatic to even think so, because what is the number one complaint in trucking these days? --- "RATES ARE AS LOW AS EVER, PROFIT MARGINS ARE RAZOR THIN, AND IT IS HERE TO STAY". This ALONE should have told you that you needed to get whatever crack-pipe smoke you had in your head cleared up because owning a fuel-sucking pig of a truck (A W900 ANTIQUE'S ROAD SHOW OF A FUEL SUCKING TRUCK THAT DOES NOT BELONG ON THE HIGHWAYS HAULING LOW-RENT FREIGHT ) -- THIS ALONE WILL LEAVE YOU BROKE ALL THE DAMN TIME AND WITHOUT ANY KIND OF DECENT PROFITS! -- Does not matter how it is spec'd ... does not matter how hard you try, you will never get that thing to compete in the dry/reefer markets very well. Even those who do it the right ways do not make nearly the profits they should or could be,.. and for someone starting out who knows nothing about truck ownership -- >> they have less than zero chance!. At best, they will struggle compared to any of their peers with that pig of a truck. - That truck belongs off-roads hauling logs or in a museum with a caption on it saying "HERE IS HOW TO MAKE THE OIL COMPANIES RICH AND BE A CHROME ADDICTED DUMBARSSE IN TRUCKING!" -- That is what it screams to everyone that actually knows better these days. -- I see someone with a truck like that pulling a drybox or reefer trailer and I LAUGH MY ARSSE OFF AT THEM AS THEY GO BY!--- it is that ridiculous!--<- That alone was, and still IS your BIGGEST AND FIRST MISTAKE!!! "If your trying to win the war... you buy a big-ole fuel-sucking armoured Bradley-tank ... If your trying to squeeze a profit out of a washed out trucking market ... you buy a light weight, good on fuel, aero, etcc. vehicle ... BUT YOU DO NOT BUY A LIGHT WEIGHT VEHICLE TO FIGHT A WAR, AND YOU DO NOT BUY AN ARMY TANK TO SQUEEZE OUT PROFITS!!! " --- This is exactly what you did!.-- and the dry/reefer, flatbed and every other market at 80,000 lbs or less --- IS A RACE TO SEE HOW MUCH FUEL YOU CAN SAVE! ... NOT HOW GOOD YOU CAN LOOK,.. NOT HOW MUCH ITS WORTH IN 20 MORE YEARS B'CAUSE SOME OTHER IDIOT WHO IS JUST AS DUMB WANTS IT TOO, ... NOT HOW FAST YOU CAN GO... NOT ANY OF THAT!!!" Here is the breakdown based on what you have said so far... (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: Hello, I just went owner/operator a month ago. I purchased a 2014 Kenworth W900B. It has so far, eaten me out of house and home, if you will...!!! Do I even need to point out all these mistakes again?. - For the life of me I cannot figure out why people are so hell bent on owning the least profitable truck on the roads in the 80,000 lb markets ... Then complain like hell they cannot make ends meet because if crappy fuel mileage. - Hell, even the people who re-spec these trucks for all they are worth and get every last drop of fuel to count in them,.. BARELY MAKE DECENT PROFITS... so someone new who is not versed in trucking beyond holding the steering wheel and checking their oil on occasion... THEY HAVE ZERO-NEGATIVE CHANCE OF GETTING ANYWHERE, does not matter how healthy that truck is, or what shape it is in. -- NEXT--- WHO THE HE#LL BUYS USED CARS,... NONETHELESS A USED TRUCK BLINDLY!!???=== HEY--> I GOT A USED HOUSE TO SELL YOU TOO!-- ONLY $500,000,000 dollars,.. but you gotta wear blindfolds while your living inside it... otherwise you might accidentally be disappointed at it,.. and I would not want you to feel bad, disrupt that complete fantasy you are living in. (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: ... The biggest BUMMER about this truck is it has 430 gears in the pumpkins! 1750 rpm's at 65 mph!! I had asked the Jerk sales guy ... saw in the door jam it said 4:30 gear ratio. What an A$$ to keep that from me! -- I need to address this specifically... FIRST AND FOREMOST--- 4:30 gearing IS NOT NEARLY YOUR PROBLEMS AT ALL,.. NOT ONE GODDAMN BIT!!!!!! --- That is actually a decent spec for a truck,.. HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO BET THAT IF I PUT THOSE REARS IN MY PROSTAR THAT I WOULD NOT LOOSE ANY FUEL MILEAGE.... BUT IN FACT IT WOULD LIKELY GAIN A FEW TENTHS!!!???!!!--- THOSE REARS ARE NOT YOUR PROBLEM! Optimum for dry/reefer freight is in the typical range of 3.90's - 3.70's. (3.55's is pushing it) Anything much taller that (3.36,, 3.27, 3.08, 2.79, or other ridiculous things), and the truck looses fuel mileage big-time vs. a driver that knows how to drive a truck correctly towards high fuel efficiency. - Going below 3.90's (4.11, 4.36's, etc) .. you fall outside of the optimal is actually not nearly as bad. Would depend on if your running most of your miles in the 60~63ish mph range, or if your a local driver with a lot of stop and go (where 4.36's would be much better than say 3.70's) or if you are a moron and trying to go 65+ all the time everywhere you go with a square-nose truck out of sheer stupidity, and have gears set for the 60-62mph range (3.90, or 4.11's). 4.30's would be the 55-60 mph range and you can make a damned decent profit and dammed decent fuel mileage with those rears, even at 60-62 mph when needed. this is especially considering hauling the heavier end of the dry/reefer loads that are 80,000 lbs all the time. - If your usually heavy like that, those 4.36's, although a bit tall, are still dammed profitable, and over time WILL MAKE THAT ENGINE LAST A LOT LONGER, and this will also make you more profitable long term due to the engine lasting possibly 20-30% longer than it normally would have because your not lugging the snot out of it below 1500rpm's. This is however dependent on how lazy (or not) you are at shifting gears, etc. <<= that is not opinion .. that is reality .. Take it from someone who busts every bit of 8.5 - 9.0 mpg with 80,000 lbs of Nestle water loads in and out of those damn tall arsse Pennsylvanian hill country about every other week along I-70. -- You can believe the droves of idiots on social medai, the morons at the truck stop lounge,.. or you can listen to those who are ahead of the pack and have figured it out the right ways,.. (the people on here trying to help you open your eyes). => Your choice. -- TALL REARS ARE FOR SAVING FUEL AGAINST THE TENS OF THOUSANDS OF MORON COMPANY DRIVERS WHO ONLY KNOW HOW TO HOLD THE FUEL PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR!!! -- but they vastly hurt the fuel mileage and the engine's longevity, when comparing it to someone who drives a truck for high fuel efficiency and high profitability. Spec'ing the truck with decent rears for the application and driving it the right ways FAR FAR EXCEEDS spec'ing it for a moron (tall rears) who cannot drive the truck right, is too lazy to shift gears properly, and holds their foot to the floor all day long against that speed governor or that cruise control like a complete idiot. (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: ... But from reading some posts on this site, I see that this emissions CRAP is doing the dirty deeds on a lot of us drivers trying to make some good money. :@ .. This screams at me that you have taken ZERO STEPS towards truck ownership.. It screams that you are still a company driver with a company driver mindset. -- For about $300 bucks or so off e-bay and a used laptop... YOU COULD HAVE SAVE ALL THOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS!!!!.. -- ONE OF THE MAIN ADVANTAGES OF BEING AN OWNER-OPERATORS in today's trucking,,.. IS NOT RUNNING OFF TO AN EXPENSIVE REPAIR SHOP EVERY TIME YOU GET A PROBLEM!!!-- WHAT THE HELL WERE YOU THINKING!!!___???? --- LEARN TO GRAB A FREGGIN' WRENCH... LEARN HOW TO WORK ON THAT THING AND LEARN TO TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR OWN PROBLEMS!!! HERE IS YOUR STARTING POINT: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=7 and BTW: STOP listening to the droves of moron mechanic(s) who keep telling you there is nothing wrong. THEY ARE JUST AS STUPID! and just as severely under-trained as the idiot mechanics at the truck stealers$its. -- GRAB A WRENCH AND START CLEANING THE SYSTEM OUT and get it back into decent shape! -- <- If you cannot learn to make that pig of a truck run half-way right,.. low profit margin or not -- THEN NO OTHER TRUCK IS GOING TO BE ANY BETTER FOR YOU BECAUSE YOU WILL STILL NOT KNOW HOW TO OWN A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT PROPERLY! Do you seriously think that I would have those issues?-- Do you seriously think that I would not been able to turn a profit with that thing if I had to?-- Do you think I would be struggling with it? -- NOPE,.. NOT ONE DAMN BIT!!!! -- (I would not own it because there are far more profitable trucks out there).. but IF I CAN MAKE IT WORK,.. THEN SO CAN ANYONE ELSE IF THEY SIMPLY EDUCATE THEMSELVES,.. GET OFF THEIR ARSSE... AND GET DIRTY!!! - That is what truck ownership is all about. (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: -- I had a Crete mechanic go through the truck and he told me this truck looked like it sat in water for a couple of years. Everything underneath is so rusted out. Well,.. at this point you should well know who;s 100% fault that is. IT IS NOT THE DEALERS,... IT IS NOT THE PPL THAT SIOLD IT,.. IT IS THE PERSON WHO WAS BLIND AND DID NOT LOOK PAST THE GLEE AND CHROME AND THE INTERRIOR --- YOU KNOW THOSE THINGS THAT DO NOT MATTER ONE GODDAMN BIT TOWARDS ACTUALLY MAKING A LIVING AND TURNING A HALF-DECENT PROFIT WITH LOW-RENT FREIGHT!!! And then to make it even worse -- YOU SEEM TO HAVE THIS HABIT OF SHOVING YOUR PROBLEMS OFF ONTO SOMEONE ELSE FOR AN OPINION AND QUICK-FIXES INSTEAD OF TAKING THE TIME TO LEARN HOW TO INSPECT AND SOLVE THE ISSUES PROPERLY YOURSELF!!!- and according to your posts,.. you seem to be hell bent on explaining you took it to this and that person and shop and another person and mechanic after place after place,.. like a blind man, then wondering why you have all the problems that you do. -- Owning a used truck does not work like that!.. Hell,.. owning a brand goddamn new truck these days does not work like that either! -- Only thing that works like that is being a company driver and making all your issues someone else's headaches when things go south. STOP SHOVING YOUR PROBLEMS OFF ONTO EVERYONE ELSE AND START TAKING YOUR PROBLEMS HEAD ON AND SOLVING THEM --- YOURSELF -- OR GO BACK TO BEING A COMPANY DRIVER!!! (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: ... -- You are the only one who can "fix these issues quickly" because the problem is MOSTLY YOU!. Your equipment and your situation is the direct result of this, so don't blame the equipment,,.. blame yourself!. GRAB A FREGGIN' WRENCH AND GO AT IT! (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: I'm currently getting 4.5 mpg and ranges up to 5.0 if I drive it well and not go through the mountains with heavy loads. But Crete keeps giving me 40,000 pound or more loads. Though THAT is also a problem. Your fuel mileage is typical of a poorly spec'd fuel sucking pig of a truck, especially for someone who does not know how to drive it properly. I haul heavier loads all day long,.. AND IF YOU THINK THAT ANY COMPANY NONETHELESS A MEGA-FLEET IS GOING TO GIVE YOU LIGHT LOADS THEN YOU ARE SMOKING CRACK-PIPES!!... THAT IS THEIR JOB--- GIVE THE HEAVIER, LESS PROFITABLE STUFF TO THE O/O'S AND USE THE COMPANY TRUCKS FOR ALL THE HIGHER PROFIT LEADS... THAT IS WHAT THEY ARE TRAINED TO DO!!!-- AND IF YOU WERE THE COMPANY OWNER, YOU WOULD TELL YOUR DISPATCHERS TO DO THE SAME -- THAT IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM!!! -- COMPLAINING ABOUT IT IS YOUR OWN IGNORANCE AND IF YOU DID NOT SPEC YOU TRUCK TO DEAL WITH THIS PROPERLY BEFORE BUYING IT THEN WHO'S FAULT IS THAT>??? -- LOOK IN THE MIRROR! -- I am in exactly this same boat... I haul for the mega-fleets too.. They give me all the loads that they loose money on -- AND I TAKE THEM AND SMILE AND TURN A DAMMED DECENT PROFIT ON THEM, them scratching their heads as to how the hell I do it. (and if one man can do it... so can another. I am not unique, not one bit). (03-15-2020 )Trucker Ron Wrote: ... I usually end up over weight and have to take to a terminal to t-call the load. I almost got caught one time though the spirits were looking down on me and the weigh station was Closed (which is rare for this weigh station). I was 4000 pounds over when I got to a CAT scale to weigh!! So now I told Crete NO loads over 40k or I will need to leave. They don't like that. if your over-weight, your truck is spec'd incorrectly, is too heavy for the dry/reefer market, is rusted out, is on dire straights, has tall rubber on it (has horrible 24.5's instead of some fuel savings tires), and all things are against you ... AND you have taken zero steps towards getting on top of any of it... IT WOULD BE A LOT CHEAPER TO GIVE UP THE TRUCK AND GO BACK TO BEING A COMPANY DRIVER FOR ANOTHER YEAR OR 2 AND LEAR HOW TO ACTUALLY OWN AND SPEC A TRUCK PROPERLY INSTEAD OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE!. NO truck repair is going to save you from yourself and your serious lack of education. ONLY YOU CAN FIX THAT!. Could you make what you already have work properly?-- You could. It would be a serious uphill battle. You will have to start by grabbing some wrenches, buying some tools like a laptop and an adapter, etc. and taking your problems into your own hands like a proper truck owner should,.. you will have to also learn how to drive that truck properly for high fuel economy (driving by boost gauge and pyro gauge and slowing the f#uvck down to 60 mph like you should be doing), etc. to help you get on top of it. You will need to start investing IN YOURSELF AND YOU ABILITIES TOWARDS TRUCK OWNERSHIP real fast. -- If your not willing to do all of this,. then please do yourself a favor .. go back to being a company driver and NEVER EVER LOOK AT OWNING YOUR OWN TRUCK AGAIN because owning trucks these days ACTUALLY TAKES A LOT OF EFFORT FAR BEYOND HOLDING THAT STEERING WHEEL AND RUSHING OFF TO EVERY SHOP WHEN THERE IS A PROBLEM! THIS WHOLE RANT is not to pick on you .. IT IS TO BRING AWARENESS to help educate anyone who may be just about to buy that first truck and hopefully not END UP ON THIS SAME BAD ROAD you have found yourself on. Either taking steps to get out from under that truck and either go back as company driver, or put a whole lot more research into how to properly own, inspect, drive for better fuel savings, etc.. invest in the tools needed to own, wrench on, and maintain a modern truck with emissions systems on them, or .. to try to start that uphill battle with what you already have... * Ordering a win7 laptop from a local used computer store. * Ordering an inline-6 adapter kit off e-bay. * Invest in a decent set of wrenches and sockets if you do not already own them. While waiting for the adapter... * Grabbing some wrenches and pulling apart every damn egr pipe and sensor and such and cleaning them the hell out, replacing the IMAP, egr Delta-P, and exhaust bp sensors. * Cleaning or replacement of the Doser injector, DPF delat-P sensor and tubing, etc. * Pulling the DOC and DPF off that thing yourself,.. taking pics of their faces, posting them here and then taking them to stealers$it for about $300 or so to have them baked, flow tested, de-ashed,.. etc. * thourough inspection of the decomp tube, def filete screens, def injector, SCR element face, etc. * Replacing the guts of the fuel pump of the engine has more then 400k miles on it. *Weighing the truck to see what you can actually carry for weights with it if still not known. * Installing cheap set of aftermarket pyro and boost gauges if they are not already in the dash. * Learning how to drive it properly and by your boost and pyro gauges + keepinf it below 62 mph, and refusing any load that required more than 600 miles per driving shift (per driver). (or at least negotiating delivery times to compensate this). -- And a whole lot more after that as you go along. Eventually you could get there, but it will not be easy at all. | |||
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