Leaking CAC

[Rawze]

Stop getting duped by aftermarket S#it products.!!! What good is that Duraf#$uck P.O.S. lasting all those years if it is goign to cost you $8,000 / year in fuel maileage and other losses. -- STICK TO OEM!!! when it comes to CAC unit.

Here is a thread on them worth reading through...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...94#pid2794

I have seen a lot of people with them and they do cause a lot of grief due to their very restrictive flow. Count the number of air passages across the CAC unit, then go look at the duras#iet and count them up. (or most other aftermarket units).. and you will quickly find out they are problematic.

Detroit Rad is not much better. Here is one i inspected for someone a while back...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid15105


And don't even get me started on the destroyed engine's that I have seen when people use aftermarket EGR coolers...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...02#pid2802


That out of the way, any leak measurable = fuel mileage losses ... but the general rule of thumb is more than 10 PSI loss on a leak test in one minute. - You should not just test the CAC though,.. you should test the entire engine. Block plate of some sort at the intake of the turbo, and at the turbo exhaust outlet.. pressurize whole engine to 30+ psi. looks for leaks in entire engine ... CAC, compressor, EGR circuits, exhaust manifold, ... anywhere.