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JimT

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Oil change, big filter wrench is required... I have done the math on this, it is cheaper to go to TA or Speedco, it is not a pretty process... I will never attempt that again. Just not worth it.

I own a grease gun, and that is as far as I will go personally on a PM.

With Landstar's discount at TA it usually costs me $300 after tax for their "Ultimate PM". With $12/gal delo from walmart, all filters and such it's pretty much break even to do it myself. Biggest reason right now is because I want to drop the oil pan. I started hearing a random 'tink' sound recently, can't say where it's coming from, could just be metal warming up or something externally bouncing around in the breeze from the engine fan. Or it could be something more serious. I did have one of the old ceramic plungers in my fuel pump shrink in size prior to learning about and rebuilding it last year. Either way I'd rather inspect than assume. Figure it can't hurt to look. Plus I get to see anything else there is to see down there and reseal the outside of the pan.

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Front springs, if they are deformed, replace. If the bushings are good, why replace?

At least one of the springs is loosing it's arch, at least according to Rawze. Honestly I have a hard time seeing it, but I believe him. The pin bushings are all shot and popping side to side, on both ends of the springs. It's time.

(07-12-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: Oil pressure sensor, pull fuel filter and replace. I believe it is 27 ftlbs of torque on the bolt. Also replace the crank and cam sensor while you are at it. Inspect the Jake brake harness for leaks too. If it is showing signs of weeping, use RTV to seal it up, this will require popping the top... Easy fix, and it works.

Crank and Cam sensors replaced in Feb on my way down to Rawze's. Overhead was done a year ago, about 75-80k mi ago, but I wasn't present at the time and I have a nagging need to verify the condition of everything in there, so that and the inspecting jake harness is already on my list. Tons of great info and video on that already.

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 1. pressure test coolant system up to 20 psi leave it sit for awhile. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times to check for coolant running/dripping from anywhere on the bottom end.

Don't really have any coolant loss. Maybe add a quart every few months, mostly in the winter when the rubber hoses shrink and expand and leak. Otherwise it's been good. Once in a while the little tube from the overflow looks a little wet, but again, very rare that I add coolant. Used to loose a noticeable amount of coolant until I replaced the pressure cap. Been nearly perfect ever since.

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 2. Jack the steer tire just high enough to get it off the ground by a hair. Then unbolt and replace the springs. It allows you to roll the axle around a bit to line things up with the hangers when reassembling.

nice

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 3. Coroseal and por15 are the go to on this site for painting and sealing rusty stuff and stuff you want a permanent seal coat on.

The new springs aren't rusted yet. Still use coroseal on them first? Would por15 be overkill for springs?

(07-12-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: 4. Oil pan gaskets are reusable. Except when monkeys hammer them down with an impact gun and squish the gasket in to oblivion.

Ok, one vote for replacing the gasket, one vote for reuse!

(07-12-2020 )Meanwhile Wrote: I was taught to prefill the filters. We also used a punch to put a hole in the bottom of the filters to drain what we could before pulling them off. A small bucket or a large coffee can usually caught everything.

I put a quick release drain plug in my oil pan so that I could drain it into buckets or jugs easier until I can get a big enough drain pan.

Got a quick release plug to install with this upcoming service! Got one on my dodge cummins and it's great.

Nice idea about punching a hole in the old filter!