RE: Cm871 hammering, poor thing (10-07-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: I sent you an email, two emails, same thing I have been running in my 871 for a few years without issue. It is the latest incarnation for the 871, and is easy to install, I did mine in the driveway. And to note, I am a truck driver, not a mechanic, I know enough to be dangerous. Keep that in mind...
First thing, get a free account on Cummins Quickserve. That way you have access to everything the dealership does in regards to manuals, parts, the part numbers and repair and trouble shooting procedures. I in framed my motor in Rawze's driveway using Quickserve on my iPhone along with Rawze's video series on the 871 in frame. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html
The inline reader, one of these, pretty much what everyone uses here, comes with Insite, all the cables, etc., that you will need to connect. You will have to find (CT) c@lt erm, it is on the internet for free.
Here is the reader you need... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic-Data...7268ccf60f
And yes, China, they usually get these readers here quicker than the US Mail will get a letter across town.
Pop the valve cover, inspect the cams and the lobes.
Run the overhead, there is a video on how to do that on the top of the page under "Video"
Complete an EGR Tuneup, there is a video for that too. Only use Cummins OEM parts! The two main sensors on the 871 are the iMap (Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor) and the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor. These should be replaced yearly, even on a deleted motor. Your Differential Pressure Sensor, the one with the funny tubes. Inspect the tubes and make sure they are clear. If you are going to delete, I would not mess with this sensor other than to clean it for now. If it is in bad shape, best to replace to rule everything out. Only use Cummins OEM parts, especially these sensors.
If you are going to keep the mandate intact, I would inspect the fuel doser, and drop the DOC and DPF cans to inspect, if keeping them on, if they are dirty, take them in to be baked and de-ashed and reinstall. The fuel doser, if it is gummed up, best to get a new one, and there is a core deposit on the doser. You will need to drain off a bit of coolant to remove that particular doser. You will need Insite up and running if you do bake the cans and reinstall, the ECM will need to be told this work has been completed.
if the belts are slipping and jumping around, that sounds like the damper, only use a Cummins OEM Damper! Sounds like yours is shot. The new one needs to be painted before installing. I use the Cummins brand red engine paint, expensive, but holds up much better than anything you will find at Home Depot. A little bit goes a long way, love that paint.
If you suspect something in the lower end, I would inspect... But, if your oil pressure is actually running up near 40 psi, it sounds like someone may have already been in there, or the motor has fewer miles on her than you think. I would do the overhead first and replace the crankshaft damper before dropping the pan.
Injector blow by test, there is a video for that too, and I would do that. It may also be time for new fuel timing and metering actuators, but do everything else first before replacing these particular parts as the are not inexpensive. Run the injector test first, along with completing the overhead.
To me, it sounds like the damper is shot and she needs an overhead in a bad way. If the truck is using coolant, then I would suspect the head or EGR cooler. If you do drop the pan, pressurize the motor/cooling system to 20psi and let her sit overnight. The following day, get under her with a good flashlight and one of you bar the motor over, if there is a slipped liner, which is what you are looking for, you will hear bubbling and normally find drops of coolant on one of the cylinder walls, normally #5.
As far as the head, if it is slap wore out, only use a NEW OEM Cummins head. Not a reman or aftermarket, a NEW OEM Cummins head, same goes for the in frame kit if you go that route. And you will need to remove a liner and measure it before ordering any kits from Cummins, the same for the rod bearings. Measure first before ordering, it is all explained on Cummins Quickserve under the engine rebuild section along with the parts section.
Right now, to my uneducated simple mind, it sounds like an EGR tuneup is in order, along with a new damper and overhead, that would be my first real concerns along with the inspection of the valves, cams and lobes.
As far as the file on the ECM, I sent you most of what you will need to set up an Inline reader and how to extract a file along with the latest M and M for that motor. Once extracted, put it on a thumb drive, ALWAYS make a copy! Send a copy of that file to Rawze, he will inspect it for you, and he does not charge. He can tell you exactly what you have.
Others will chime in, sounds like you may have a pretty sound rig with a little work. The 871 is a good motor once you change her diapers a few times. And stay away from the clown in town that does that hack programming, but you know that already...
And please, do not contact me in regards to the computer stuff, I use a Mac, I have no clue how any of this stuff works, I had help from other forum members here to get everything set up, which hopefully the email I sent you will solve the issues with setup. Once it is all set up, it is pretty easy to use, and that is where I am in all of this, my computer is set up and I can use it. Waterloo I never received your emails? Maybe I’m doing something wrong. I am still learning this site! Thank you! |
