Block cutting |
04-16-2022, (Subject: Block cutting ) Post: #3 | |||
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RE: Block cutting (04-16-2022 )dericson Wrote: What’s going on crew? in reference to the ISX's.. I am not as familiar with other model engine liner heights specifically ... throw that training garbage in the trash can. - Someone is smoking a creak-pipe if they think that 0.007" on an ISX is ok.. or even 0.012" for that mater.. THAT IS TOO LOW FOR AN ENGINE THAT HAS ANY KIND OF AGE ON IT@@@... IT DOES NOT EXTEND THE ENGINES LIFE ONE GODDAMN BIT BY SETTING THEM THAT LOW!!!.. AND ONLY CONTRIBUTES TOWARDS THE TRUCK OWNER HATING HIS ENGINE WHEN THE HEAD GASKET LETS GO AGAIN IN 2-3 YEARS ,,... THIS IS EXACTLY WHY THOSE OEM STEALERS$ITS AND CERTIFIED SHOPS ARE THE MOST HORRIBLE PLACES TO TAKE YOUR ENGINE TO!!!..--- stop drinking their cool-aide.. your only going to accomplish proving how bad those oem places really are! Personally, I prefer brass shims. They are hardened brass.. not soft brass. - You loose about 0.001" of crush/compression when using them and that is perfect actually. (on the ISX's) Set the liner height to 0.016" and it will crush down to 0.015" by the time the head is fully torqued, then re-torqued the next day, a second time like it should be done. - It makes for a second seal against seepage when it crushes, they are far more forgiving for heat expansion cycles over time, and the brass expands at a greater rate than the cast iron with higher heat loads. I have never seen an issue or a liner dropping or letting go prematurely because of the use of brass shimms when the liner height is set to 0.015"+, and head was torqued as recommended on this forum, instead of the shortcut method in the books. Not even with higher HP, 750+ applications, unless the engine was abused in some way to cause it. Therefore, here are my views/thoughts on this... Stainless shimms are far more rigid and it requires the block be cut where the liners are 0.001" lower than you can set the brass shim height to. This is also harder on the block over time with heat cycling and the component that suffers fretting (or potentially cracking) the most is that engine block when using stainless shimms. Makes it far more difficult to correct if there is another inframe+counter-boring needed the next time around. The only time stainless should really be used as a first choice is when there is a special need for it. Like a casting defect, cracked mid-stop to strengthen and support it, of if more then 0.032" of shim thickness is needed because someone cut the counter-bores too deep and its better than scrapping the whole block. Brass shims should ALWAYS be someone's first choice, regardless of power levels, unless there is a specific need for stainless due to some defect, etc. User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!. | |||
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Messages In This Thread |
Block cutting - dericson - 04-16-2022, RE: Block cutting - Signature620 - 04-16-2022, RE: Block cutting - Rawze - 04-16-2022 RE: Block cutting - Agentspd - 04-16-2022, RE: Block cutting - Signature620 - 04-17-2022, |
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