tuning question

[Rawze]

(05-14-2022 )ptlogan77 Wrote:  

(05-14-2022 )windowrattler Wrote:  First thing to do is to pull a copy of the tune and send it over to Rawze to take a look at it. Speaking from personal experience you can have a tune that seems to run ok but is stuck in a warmup mode and sucks the fuel as an example. After a review and a complete retune went from 4.5-5.3 mpgs to 6+.

Ill get a datalink adapter as my Grandview USB Adapter doesn't want to play well.
Any suggestions on which adapter to get? Which programs do I need?
I have a subscription to TeamViewer, so as soon as I get an adapter I'll be ready to go.

just get an iline-6 adapter off of flea-bay or from obd2-com. A china knock-off works just fine for about $300 bucks or so. The software needed to pull the file out of it, etc. is easy enough to get a hold of after that.. it is on the inter-webs for free in a few places.

assume the program is bad.. more than 90%+ or all the hundreds of programs that I review each year are.. because there is mostly nothing but clowns out there doing that stuffs who have no absolute clue how these engines work.. but can only manage to barely jail-break it from showing some faults in the dash ... maybe hack some more power into to it all half-arssed like .. and nothing more... resulting in a severely shortened engine life in exchange for some DPF faults going away.


... and The power is not the issue so much to about 600 HP or so .. but that ISX engine HATES lower RPM and higher torque!... so I would suggest you get rid of that 2050 torque, unless you only want the engine to last half as long... and learn to drive it above 1500rpm and a gear or 2 down, whenever loaded heavy and/or climbing those hills.

The 3.27 rears don't help much in the way of it climbing those mountains out west too. That is not a very good setup for engine longevity at all and would make it work harder than it should all the time. ... and what model tranny exactly do you have that your claiming is a direct?.. maybe look on the side of it at the sticker... post the pic of it here.

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and you are absolutely right.. THAT RED ENGINE IS NOTING WHATSOEVER LIKE ANYTHING OF YESTER-YEAR.. AND ABSOLUTELY A DIFFERENT ANIMAL THAN ANY YELLOW MOTOR!... DO NOT EVEN TRY TO MAKE COMPARISONS.. NOTHING ABOUT IT IS THE SAME AT ALL!> .. not how much boost, or fuel or rpm ranges, or ANYTHING is the same about it whatsoever.

In the mean time, how much boost will it make/ get up to in a hard pull if you give it everything you got while loaded heavy?

And how fast are you driving that flying brick that belongs in a museum... because it is Absolutely a fuel-pig of a truck.. and how much you can manage to SLOW THE HE#LL DOWN BELOW 63 MPH will make more difference than all the magical programming in the world combined.

Get an inline adapter.. copy the program out of it and e-mail it to me for a proper review.. and then you can go from there towards making proper decisions about it.

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Last but not least.. THE OEM HEAD IS GOOD FOR MORE THAN a MILLION+ MILES unless the engine is abused in some significant way!!!>>> and ALL I SEE AROUND HERE, with those aftermarket/reworked heads that you mentioned is nothing but absolute garbage.. you should have put on a BRAND NEW OEM-ONLY HEAD.. and not wasted your time and money on the trash that someone did to it. You need to save your moneys up like mad.. because I guarantee that thing is not going to last but a few years at most before it needs another inframe because of that garbage head that was put on it + whatever other half-arssed things that were done. Was the overhaul kit itself OEM?,, or was it more after-garbage parts too?... and what was the liner height that it was machined to?.. that is just as important... because so far, your descriptions point directly towards a lot of half-arssed, ignorant things done and a bunch of trash.