Yet another, cm2350 overheating

[Vengeance]

Thanks Rawze,

Just how much would that thermostat seal make a difference? I have not replaced it and I haven't seen any damage, I do however have a new seal at home, and I can make a piece of pipe to tap it in, i probably have a scoket that would work as well. And I'm not really sure how you would install the thermostat in the wrong direction and get the housing cover back on. But I'm sure there is someone out there that had managed to do it, probably more than once. Which is why we have stickers on $&@?# company trucks that say diesel in this hole and DEF in this hole.

The ECM software is up to date, and matches the serial number in quickserv, I verified that myself.

DPF, SCR, DOC are all in good shape, checked and cleaned early in this routine, and I noticed the egr cooler leak when less than a gallon of collant had been lost, I learned a long time ago the hard way about egr coolers and aftertreatment. I just got lucky this time and caught it very early. Dealer checked them when they did the egr cooler, said they looked good. I keep the oem computer set to show the hot exhaust symbol so I know when it is doing A passive regen, once a day or every other day. I can post the aftertreatment history of needed.

Truck rolls fine.

It's been a while since I bared this engine, and the only other engine I've done that on was a DD15. Seemed about the same to me. It starts easy, and I've driven a lot of different trucks, both newer and older, this truck is the easiest I've seen. A second or less on the starter and it going.

I know the fan pulls air toward the engine, I've read across that post on here many times. As far as the fan clutch goes, engine off/key on I can't turn it. It's blows and it's loud and obvious when it's on.

Radiator and CAC are oem, original if I'm not mistaken. EGR Cooler is new, and it better be oem, or MHC in Cheyenne is gonna have a problem. Looks OEM

Fuel economy hasn't changed noticibly, I feel like it actually increased some after the injectors. But I don't have enough time on it to know for sure.

I wouldn't know how to check for a slipped cam, I would assume that would cause all sorts of symptoms. Runs smooth, No changes in sound, vibration, power, etc. Heat is the only change.

I can check the IMAP and exhaust BP today, or at to see if the circuit (tube?) is clogged.

I don't know anyone with a thermal camera, so no, I've changed the coolant filters regularly, and the coolant has been drained several times, either intentionally or unintentionally, plus cutting open and inspecting the inside of the last filter, I haven't seen any evidence of contamination like stop leak. Doesn't mean there isn't anything inside the radiator, restricting flow or heat exchange. Plan to flush it when home.

It losing power or dying, it really has been rare. Might do it every time I stop for a week, then not a single problem for 2-3 months. I found the fuel port to injector 5 last year was lose, tightened it up, and it didn't have a problem for a long time after that.

Yes I'm ashamed to admit it I played guess and hope with the injectors. I dont really have the tools I need to do it, or the money to pay someone to do it. As for as the proper test......well......"Sorry: You do not have Permission to perform that action." The link doesn't work.

Let me know what I missed and I'll check those sensors, wouldn't suprise me if it was something like that. And I'll see about the regen logs