Water temp problems

[Rawze]

(09-19-2016 )386lover Wrote:  It's always been my opinion that if you lug the motor excessively, the exhaust gas doesn't get pushed out as fast. If you watch your pyro while you lug it, the egt's climb excessively vs revving higher.

Apples, oranges, potatoes, bannanas, grapes,.. etc. etc..

It comes down to a few things. --

* The less fuel and torque you consume = less energy from the engine and therefore less wear over time. LOWER BOOST LEVELS = LESS TORQUE and LESS FUEL at any given moment. It is a mechanical device. It cannot heal itself, and the more you work it, the more it will wear.

* No matter what driving style and technique/ method, etc. you use, if you have a pyro gauge on the OUTSIDE of your exhaust manifold like my videos show, -- THE LOWER YOU CAN KEEP It AND MAKE IT STAY all the time, the less wear and fuel you will use up.

* EVERY TRUCK and EVERY OPERATION is different. Just because one guys truck only gets to 700 degrees on his pyro gauge DOES NOT MEAN that another truck will do exactly the same thing. The manifold temps on a Volvo will heat up and get to 900 degrees while a W900 will barely get to 600, pulling the in exactly same conditions. Different trucks have VASTLY DIFFERENT INTAKES AND EXHAUSTS and this has a HUGE effect on how they operate.

The key is to have the LOWEST boost possible at all times, still getting the job done. -= THEREFORE LESS ENERGY AND TORQUE IS CONSUMED AND REQUESTED.

Lower BOOST does not mean lower RPM!. Lower BOOST is a direct result of YOUR FOOT! and how eager you are to get down the road. It is that nut behind the wheel that is the most stubborn and difficult to adjust at the end of the day (I.E. YOU).

To maintain the LOWEST overall pyro temps at all times too. think of it as the "fire in your furnace".

WHATEVER DRIVING STYLE that helps you to achieve this is what will be the best driving style for you and your particular truck.

A good example of this is my truck. When I am at 80,000 lbs and weight maxed out, running a gear down, letting the engine get up to 1650 RPM and breathe good/move a lot of air works much better than trying to go down the road at 1250 RPM in a gear higher. My overall boost requirement is LESS to keep me going and my pyro drops off by about 100 degrees as a result of LESS BOOST AND BETTER AIR FLOW. On the other hand, when I am really light,.. moving down the road at 1650 RPM in the same gear, the same way,.. my pyro will fall off and the engine will run cooler when I gear UP and let it coast along at 1250 instead of 1650. It is almost the complete opposite effect when I am light vs heavy. Most trucks will act this same same way, but not all. Some just have so much air flow anyways, that it changes the game completely. As well, if your engine is programmed differently, it will be different too. A truck that produces incorrect boost levels at lower RPM, but better ones at higher RPM may always run better in higher rpm ranges, and vice versa.

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Personally, I think that engine life should be measured in fuel consumption over its lifetime, and not miles. This would paint a much more accurate picture of how "old" an engine really is.