Shell T4,T5 &T6 Rotella oil analysis

[Rawze]

Obsessing over your oil is completely pointless.

Use a top brand and stick to it... and don't bother wasting moneys on synthetic unless you have a very specific need for it like having to regularly crank the engine in extreme sub-zero temps (northern canada).


What I say towards this sounds a bit counter-intuitive ... but in all reality, I have not seen a single ISX engine yet, that was properly cared for, that needed an inframe because of a worn out lubricated part.

-= It is always a non-lubricated part of the engine that fails.. and no kind of super-duper lube oil special formula on the planet can prevent this. What gets them is things like dropped/fretted liner, worn out valve seats or injector cups in the head, etc.etc.etc., and has nothing whatsoever to do with the oil that you used at all.


And if lubricated components do fail, then it is ALWAYS due to neglect or a form of abuse of some sort .. like over head cams because of neglected crank case filters (or some idiot doing extended oil changes) ,. etc.ec. etc.


Spending more $$$ on synthetic or special oils and obsessing over the oil is completely a waste of time, effort, and moneys. Spend that moneys instead on keeping the engine itself running healthy.

I.E.> Plain ole' Rotella-T, Delo-400, or delvac .. + a gallon (12%) of modern GL-5 or GL-4 gear oil to help with dry-starts and to keep viscosity up for the gear train, etc., and oil change intervals based on average fuel mileage instead of a set mileage or time interval. Combine that with regular tune-up work to keep the engine running healthy + all scheduled and recommended maintenance practices as mentioned on the forum here, and the engine will live a long life. - Add a bypass filter if the thing has EGR active (engine not deleted) to keep soot out of the oil is recommended too, but not extended oil changes.

want proof?...
here it is...