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(10-07-2016 )VNL670 Wrote: First I would like to start by saying thanks to everyone that contributes to making this site a success from administrator and all the way down to the youngest members. This website is very beneficial and contains valuable info. I hope it stays around for a long time.
I am a newbie & I am an owner of an 07 Volvo VNL670 with a 565 HP ISX CM870. I would really appreciate any help on this following matter. The main problem is that when I'm bob-tailing or loaded, and I attempt to take off and start driving, the boost gauge goes up to 20-25 psi and then after a few seconds you hear a loud "pssshhhhht" or you get the whooooosshht sound (as if one of the inter-cooler boots came off or has a loose clamp or it's as if somebody just smashes your inter-cooler with a sledgehammer) and power just drops within seconds and boost gauge drops down to 5-7 psi on my boost gauge within 5 seconds. My EGT starts to creep up to reach 800 to 1000 degrees. I lay off the pedal or else the temperature will just keep on climbing. It will not do this at idling or while revving it up to around 2000 RPM. It has to be in gear and in motion to do all that and that's what makes it difficult to diagnose. I am getting around 3 to 4 MPG at best, which really sucks! All this happens with no derating of the engine and no check engine light. I have also noticed that my fan is always on and does not shut off (all A/C lines have been disconnected when replacing CAC and it is not the A/C line pressure switch). A friend mentioned to me that the line that feeds the fan is the same line that feeds the turbo air control valve for the turbo actuator and the fan may not be getting enough air pressure to disengage it due to some kind of an air leak. I don't know if it is related to my main issue.

I can not find the source of the whooshing sound. I have replaced the inter cooler with a Dura-Lite inter-cooler(best on the market). I have replaced the boots and clamps and pressure tested the system from the turbo outlet to the last boot on the intake, with no air leaks to be found. I thought it may be my turbo actuator, but that is also working fine and moves the way it is supposed to with no air leaks. I have ordered a DORMAN EGR Valve #904-5001 and should be here in a few days.
What can it be? Did anyone ever have any of these symptoms on their truck? pictures are available if needed. I am open to any suggestions or if there is an existing thread that addresses these issue please direct me to it. Any help is highly appreciated!!!

YES: The same air supply line that feeds the engine fan circuit on a lot of trucks ALSO feeds the Turbocharger for the CM870's. VERIFY THE PRESSURE with a test gauge while test driving it. 90-PSI is the MINIMUM pressure allowable at any given time.

YES: YOU ROYALLY F##KED UP BY BUYING THAT CRAP JOB OF A DURA-LITE CHARGE AIR PIECE OF SH$T COOLER!!! -- YOU HAVE BEED DUPED BY BAD MARKETING AND BRAINWASHED CRAP AFTER-MARKET COMPANIES!!! --- GET THAT FUEL SUCKING CRAP SH$T OFF YOUR TRUCK ASAP!!!
Dura-CRAP Referenxces:
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...41#pid3441
and...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...94#pid2794
as just a start.

YOU THINK YOU TRUST AFTER-MARKET CAC and EGR CRAP!!?!! -- READ AND LEARN FOR YOURSELF!!!
After-market EGR coolers: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...02#pid2802

STOP JUMPING OVER A DOLLAR TO GRAB A DIME!!! -- THE TRUCKING INDUSTRY DOES NOT ALLOW FOR AFTER-MARKET CRAP, BAD MECHANICS, AND PEOPLE WASTING THERIR MONEY ON IDIOT DECISIONS AND MORON MECHANICS!.

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Stop guessing at your problems and wasting all your time and money trying to save a few bucks on crap that don't work and morons who don't know how to fix a truck. -- And if you disagree with what I have said here, and are one of those nickel-and-dime mother f##kers who is always trying to "cheat" and save a few bucks above doing the right thing --- Then go back to TTR where you belong and stay off of forums that actually care and try to help people in actual profitable ways. This forum is about doing things the right way and making an actual long term profit,.. NOT about saving a few bucks because some asshole off some XM radio or some ignorant idiot in a truck stop convinced you to buy CRAP!.

**** GET THAT AFTER-MARKET CAC CRAP OFF YOUR TRUCK ASAP!!!-- RIGHT AWAY! And go back to the OEM CAC cooler.
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As far as the EGR valve goes,... Either spend the money for an OEM one or get with Unilevers and/or Gearhead on the forum here and get that thing de-mandated the correct way.

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As far as your A/C problem goes,.. Draining the systerm to ZERO PSI WILL IN FACT cause the engine fan to run all the time on some model trucks. I am not 100% sure on Volvo in particular, but on a lot of trucks, it needs to see 50-PSI minimum in the A/C circuit to shut off the engine fan. They are that way to protect the truck in case the high pressure switch goes bad and reads zero. You should be able to hook up to the truck with Insite, etc. and see why the fan is on fairly easily.

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As far as your boost going to almost zero,.. I HOPE YOUR NOT TRYING TO HAUL FREIGHT LIKE THAT -- IF SO -- YOU ARE COOKING YOUR INJECTORS AND KILLING YOUR ENGINE!!! -- Don't be an idiot,.. then come crying on here later on and asking WHY you got a cracked head and 5 leaky-ass injectors!>

YOu should take the damn thing to a shop that can pressure test the WHOLE ENGINE and NOT just the damn CAC unit etc. -- You will likely find your problems much more effectively. It is not rocket science or some voodoo magic. It is simply a matter of using the right methods for finding your issues. Mr. Hag's shop in Atlanta can do this,..--- hell, I even have the stuff at my house to do this. -- It sounds like you are likely to find that an EGR circuit is your culprit, but no one here has E.S.P..

After that -- DO A LEAK-TEST on your injectors and make sure you ahven't cooked them!. Here is a video on how to do this.