Replaced all 6 injectors, now leak test still fails

[Husky05]

Hello thanks for the responses.

No I did not document the injector information when I replaced them. I know the first 2 might be January or February 2016. The last 4 are March 2016 but one is 2007. When I saw one was 2007, the shop could not get another one in for at least another week. So I just put it in.

The reason of replacing the injectors, the first 2 had bubbles coming out, and pinpointed to 1 and 3. The rear bank had really small bubbles and I was having hard time pinpointing it. So I just did 1 and 3 at that time. Then over the summer, I ran the test again, and I could not pinpoint which one in the rear bank was leaky. So I just went ahead and replaced the rest of 4 just for peace of mind.

The original reason of suspicion was that at idle it was little shaky and it was always smooth since I bought the truck,so that lead me to do leak test.

No I did not run leak test after replacing them. I should have. The test I ran yesterday, shows one bubble per revolution for front Bank, the rear bank shows 2 bubbles per revolution. Bubble size is normal size I would say, kinda like the size of the tube diameter that came with the test kit.

I do have Pyro and boost gauge, I keep my egt 750° or less. I let it go to 800-850 once in a while on some hills. The boost I keep it 20 psi or less most of time on hills and passes. Sometimes I go to its max boost which is 25 psi once in a while.

Yes the egr is unplugged, with it plugged in, the egt gets over 750 so easy and at cruise it can be close to 750. I did not like that so I left it unplugged, it runs much cooler that way and cruise just shy of 500°.

It has stock Cal. No check engine light other than the egr as its unplugged.

The only thing done to motor when I bought it with 894k miles is the lower end was overhauled. The guy gave me the oil sample results when I bought it. I did oil sample again at 1 million, all normal. I just sent in a bottle to be sampled again and should be getting the results this week hopefully.

Head, turbo and pretty much everything engine related is original when I bought it. Turbo is in good condition, no play to the turbine wheel.

How do I check the timing? I know for gas engines I use timing light but diesel is different, and I would like to know how.

Tone wheel on crank??? Timing and metering actuators look good, the fuel cut off solenoid is brand new. How do I check the head for leaks? Is it possible to check without removing the head?

Truck now has 1,068,424 miles. Gets 6.4 mpg average, I get a lot of head winds in the Dakotas and eastern Montana. I run MN or IA to Pacific Northwest and back to MN.

She idles OK, just little skips, a normal person would think it's smooth. But to me it's different from when I bought it, it was so smooth no skips or shakes at all. The rumble is really hard to explain, when I give it throttle it's almost like there is leaky exhaust, kinda like popp, there is vibration felt on the floor and especially the pedals. I've had mechanics ride with Me and said it sounds fine, one said it sounds shaky, but doesn't think something is terribly wrong but should keep eye on things.

I don't lose coolant at all, I lose like 1 gallon of oil every 15k miles. Sometimes less than a gallon.

Where are the crank and cam sensors located? I can pull them and check their conditions.