Cm870 low oil pressure

[Rawze]

if you don't go out of your way to build exactly right then your wasting your time. Here is what is recommended ... anything less and your pissing up wind.

There is only one way for building to go for another million+ miles and not half-arssing it ...

* ONLY A brand NEW OE HEAD!~. Not reman, and certainly not after-maggot-junk.

* ALL OEM (factory only components) internals!!!.

* Cunter-bore the block and set liner height up at no less than 0.014" - 0.015" == EVEN IF IT CHECKS OUT OK!... do it any regardless if there is wear or not or your will regret it greatly later on. Not doing this will not extend the life of the engine.

* When installing the head, torque according to the book... until you get to 300 ft-lbs. - Do the 300-ft-lbs, then let it sit over night so the head gasket can properly crush... then the next morning TORQUE IT A SECOND TIME TO 300 FT-LBS... then do the final 90-degrees on the head bolts to bring to its final tightness (close to 500 ft-lbs)... do it by HAND and not with a speed gun... some bolts will go slightly past 90 more than others and you can feel which ones want to go a bit past 90.



* When pulling the rod and main bearings --- MEASURE EVERY ONE OF THEM INDIVIDUALLY!!! -- cummins sometimes uses alternate sizes in engines,.. especially the older 870's and 871's... and you can have one size bearings in the first 2 holes, and a totally different size in the next .... IT IS COMPLETELY RANDOM!. The majority of engines have the standard set size bearings,.. but MANY of them do not!. Put the same size back in that came out for each cylinder and block location.

* Make damn sure you measure those wrist pin bushings on them really well. I think cummins spec has it as being min 2.5020 max 2.5030. When they are 0.001" out of spec (above what quickserv calls for), the engine will only last half million miles and might throw a piston thru the side of the block without warning whatsoever. At 0.002" out of spec, engine will do it at only 250-300k miles, and at 0.004" it is a time bomb waiting to ventilate the block in a hurry. <<- bad deletes and excess added torque + low rpm pulling are notorious to make the wrist pin bushings get out of round, so measure them is several places.


* MAKE SURE you use the correct liners. There are 2 different sizes and it is 60/40 chance it is a 150mm or a 152mm liners. Only way to know is to pull one out and measure it. However, most people claim that if the liner had a "pink" o-ring at the mid-stop, it is the smaller, and if it has a "blue" o-ring it is the larger one, but this is not something you can solely rely on.

* (cm870) MAKE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT TIMING WEDGES for the CPL... there are variations in the CM870's in particular and if you use the wrong timing wedges, the engine will not run nearly as well as it should. ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid29926

* USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON EVERYTHING AND FOLLOW ALL OEM PROCEDURES! -- Speed-gun and air-gun happy idiots are always the early death of an ISX.

Tags:

inframe recommendations, liner height, building an isx, raise liner height, head torque