replacing valve seals need some insight

[marek4792]

I actually ended up placing an order for the tools 3 of them, pullers, a seal installer and the valve spring compressor.

[Hammerhead]

If you don't have to take the seal installer and remover, you probably don't need them. A good pair of pliers and a little care & attention will work.
The valve spring compressor you do need.

[gearhead]

It may be piston rings. Most of your oil would be coming from intake side not exhaust side because of boost and positive pressure. i would take off intake manifold and look. If it is intake valve seals you will know. They will leak alot and you will get smoke if real bad. If its's piston rings the cylinder that has problem will have signs of oil all the way down where valves seal at head.

[marek4792]

The fact the oil is only coating the top of the exhaust ports and the lower part of the valve shafts are clean besides the thin carbon coating is making me think it's the seals. Am I looking for the same wetness on the top part of the ports basically?

[joed2323]

(11-27-2016 )gearhead Wrote:  It may be piston rings. Most of your oil would be coming from intake side not exhaust side because of boost and positive pressure. i would take off intake manifold and look. If it is intake valve seals you will know. They will leak alot and you will get smoke if real bad. If its's piston rings the cylinder that has problem will have signs of oil all the way down where valves seal at head.

Thanks for this info.


I posted a thread similar and ive been taking notes on this one.

Replaced guide seals on a motor thus far, seems like the ones that are completely crap are just floating around on valves they come clean off with fingers.

Others you gotta use pliers like you guys stated but I seem to think a adj crowd foot or ordinary seal puller both sides prying up on the metal retaining ring works good pushing valve seal off.

Looking at these newer updated seals and the ones that came with these isx motors, plain and simple the ones that came with the isx are complete garbage.

Any isx with these factory seals I would swap them regardless, even for the peace of mind it's well worth it

Still have concerns on lower copper seal for the injector???

Only o-rings that come when you order a kit like this are for the injector and it's the middle o-ring seal.

Ive been cleaning the bottom copper cup area very good and installing the new middle o-ring on the injector itself. Also changing out the injector connector rod o-rings as well since you have to pull them back some, "I just pull them completely out"

I hope this is correct, im learning on the fly with some great help of others on this forum...

Thank you, you guys that give valid insite and guidance are awesome.

[marek4792]

So just thought I'd give an update, some of the seals came off with little effort these new seals seem to better at retaining the actual seal. I also found that one of my injectors had a different shaft on it which I swapped out already the copper shaft with the ridge on the top was the oddball.

[Hammerhead]

That's just an updated design of the load retainer ring. They internals are the same and they work no differently.
8042 had both styles as well when we did his last week, one of each style was leaking as well...

[Rawze]

Just make sure you have all the same model injectors. There are 2 different types depending in your HP and CPL settings. Mixing them or putting the wrong ones in is not good for the engine.

[marek4792]

All of the injectors are the same part number and got the truck running and it actual idles abit smoother. Bad news I might have some bad injector cups with I have very little coolant consumption but I noticed my davco prefilter housing which is connected to my cooling system had abit of coolant in it too so if a new davco doesn't do it, gotta save up and buy a new head possible overhaul kit.. Oh well.