CM871 things to check after purchase?

[RTRUCKING48]

You need to open your valve cover to inspect your valves and injector cams to see if they are in good condition, that's one mistake I did when I bought mine i open it way after I got it and the [/i]injector cam was bad with all of the rollers from the rockers on the injector side

[Rawze]

Buying a used truck with that many miles is like buying a used house --- AFTER it has some tennants in it that abused the hell out of it.

You should have expected to spend about $3000 on repairs just to get it reliable again. Trucks do not get sold because they were still profitable. Expecting it to be profitable out of the gate is a pipe dream that everyone seems to believe after they talk to that salesman.

* Pull the valve cover, run the overhead, and inspect those cams. That will tell you a lot if especially if you pay attention to the lobe wear, etc. and running clearance of the engine brakes to their detent position.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...783#pid783


* Plan on replacing the crank shaft damper very soon, the fan clutch, belts, idler pulleys (if needed) etc, on the front of the engine.

* Pressure test the coolant system to a full 20 PSI, fix and leaks, and drive it hard around the block a couple times to ensure it is not building excess pressure too quickly (bad head/gasket).

* Plan on replacing the batteries soon, especially if they look old, or are mis-matched.

* Run the A/C for at least 30 minutes to ensure it is not faulting out. It takes about 15 - 20 min for the A/C to fault out if the thermistors are bad. Very common problem.

* Plan on re-torquing the axle bearings. It has to be done every 200k and no one seems to ever take the time to do it until they loose hub seals, bearings, and have all kinds of wear problems in the rear axles.

* Check the inside of the crank case filter cover. Look for green or yellow slime (coolant intrusion).

* See if the turbo is still factory red, or if it has been replaced. They only last about 600k miles or so, and if it is still factory red,.. you had better have some money saved up for when it goes out.

* Pressure test the entire engine and fix any leaks like the CAC, intake, EGR circuits, Exhaust header gaskets, etc.

* Fix any leaks in the exhaust piping, especially the flex pipe behind the turbo. It will not regen properly unless it is well sealed.

* Immediately REPLACE the IMAP and Exhaust Back-pressure sensors on it.

* Replace the oil in it after at 3,000 mile intervals for the next couple oil changes. GET THAT SOOT out of that motor.

* Replace the Coolant filter, and replace the oil IN ALL GEARBOXES.




* Have an injector leak test dopne, a cylinder cut-out test etc. and determine health of the injectors and actuators ...

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...619#pid619

AND If you want/plan on leaving the regen system functioning ...
* Pull the DPF and DOC out and take pictures of their faces. Make sure they are BOTH clean. Never take the dealers word for it,. they ALWAYS claim they replace the DPF, It is a selling point and is a useless statement.

* Do a FULL EGR Tune-UP and plan on replacing the EGR valve at 600k miles if it is still origonal. they do not last forever.

* Replace the Doser injector, and the DPf Delte-P sensor too. Clean out all the crossover pipes at the DPF and replace the rubber bushings where they meet the sensor too.

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INSTALL AS SOON AS POSSIBLE! -- Boost and Pyro gauges into that thing.

READ MY BOOK, - Print and FILL OUT THE ENTIRE Maintenence schedule that is there for a Prostar. You will catch a lot of problems before they shut you down by doing so, and you will have a good base-line.

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Sound like overkill? -- You should ask yourself if your in business to actually make money? -- or Lolly-gag around and complain when it goes down on you?. Your choice.

There is a reason why there are so many successful people on this forum. They have already gone through most of this and are now on top of it all.

Tags:

ISX Purchase, Truck Purchase, EGR Tune-up, CM871 Purchase, byuing a truck, buying used truck, used truck, checking a turck

[yamajason]

(03-27-2016 )Hedley Wrote:  2009 Prostars come out with a 14 volt 325 amp alternator from factory, Leece Neville replaces it with a 12 volt 325 amp alternator, if your prostar is plagued with electrical malfunctions including a/c issues then chances are that it was replaced with the less expensive 180 amp model....big mistake.

Didn't Rawze's truck's alternator just fail and they drove it while only having a 120amp apu alternator running. I have ran my truck with the microwave cooking food and voltage down to 12.1V and no problems idling...

[Hedley]

not sure about Rawze's truck but we solved a lot of electrical malfunctions when we installed the correct alterntors, 09 prostars need every bit of the 325 amps.

[yamajason]

(03-28-2016 )Hedley Wrote:  not sure about Rawze's truck but we solved a lot of electrical malfunctions when we installed the correct alterntors, 09 prostars need every bit of the 325 amps.

A line haul 09 Prostar will not need 325 amps!
The Delco Remy 36si 165 Amp Alternator is very popular and reliable.
The electrical malfunctions being eliminated by replacing the alternator were probably due to a failing alternator rectifier pumping voltage spikes into the truck. Check for it with a multimeter on AC Voltage setting like

[Hedley]

nope, all the prostars (I have 28 of them) that had 180 amp alternators had electrical issue which promptly went away when we replaced them with the 325 amp alternator that they were speced with from factory.

[yamajason]

(03-28-2016 )Hedley Wrote:  nope, all the prostars (I have 28 of them) that had 180 amp alternators had electrical issue which promptly went away when we replaced them with the 325 amp alternator that they were speced with from factory.

Which alternator part number are you using?

[Rawze]

I got my truck brand new from the factory. It had a 165 amp alternator on it. I replaced it with a 225 amp when the truck was still fairly new. The 225 held up for more than 800,000 miles of abuse by a 4,000 watt inverter microwave, fridge, etc.

When my truck was purchased, it was done so by a fleet that got 500 trucks in one order. They all had same size alternator (165), were standard fleet spec'd, and none of them seemed to have much problems with them.

With the headlights on and A/C running, a truck will only require about 85 amps from the alternator. -- 325 is usually overkill in most applications unless you have a lot of extra power use. Perhaps he had a bad run of the smaller alternartors? or perhaps a bad run of batteries? who knows for sure. -- I can only tell what my own experience was with it. I have also run my truck for several days at a time with just the 120-amp alternator on the APU unit. Here recently to get the truck home when it went out this time for good,.. and a long time ago when my starter was replaced, and a wire broke a couple days later because of a faulty connector. Truck ran fine for several days, though we did not use the Inverter for those days. We waited until after we delivered our load to get it fixed.

To properly install a 325 amp alternator on a prostar, you will also need to replace the fusible-link (or remove it all together) located in the line just before the starter for that much amperage too if you plan on getting the full 325 amps to the system and down to a big inverter. otherwise, it will eventually melt it and brake the link. I have seen this a few times on other peoples trucks.

13.6 Volts DC is 13.6 Volts DC. Unless you have an alternator that is very noisy, producing spikes or has A/C current spewing out of it. My prostar runs just fine from 14.0 VDC to all the way down to 11.8 VDC with no issues. I know this very well. Below 11.6, the truck throws codes low voltage, and that is when my wife reached back and turned on the APU. it ran for 3 days (day and night both, she didn't shut it off at all) on its little 120-amp alternator while she got delivered and then drove home. voltage stayed at 13.4 on the small alternator wiuth the headlights on, and during the day, it was 13.7

[Waterloo]

(03-28-2016 )Hedley Wrote:  nope, all the prostars (I have 28 of them) that had 180 amp alternators had electrical issue which promptly went away when we replaced them with the 325 amp alternator that they were speced with from factory.

My ProStar had the Leece alternator, and she went teets up around 750,000 miles, and was replaced with a Delco reman from TA roughly two years ago. I still have the Leece as they would not take it in core exchange... I was broke down and took what they had. I don't recall the amperage of either, but I can tell you this, after inspecting and replacing 80 feet of my trucks electrical cabling I can see why they installed a 325 amp alternator!

All of my factory cabling was installed by a moron! When they installed the electrical ends they shaved off allot of the cabling's jacket, leaving bare copper cable exposed to the elements, in one case nearly a foot of cable was exposed. All of my copper was green from end to end, and it was disintegrating when you ran your fingernail across it... This was on both my grounds and power, I was honestly surprised the truck would run, or did not short out and burn to the ground.

I wound up replacing 80 feet of various cabling and all of my electrical problems went away, which I was having allot of. I later installed four new AGM batteries and have never had another electrical issue on this truck. She runs at a solid 14 volts going down the road with no issues. I run the standard appliances, 1800 watt inverter, microwave, built in fridge, laptop, etc., on board along with a 3400 watt stereo 3 amp system with a small isolated AGM battery in the sleeper closet... I also have a TriPac with the smaller alternator with no issues that has also ran for days on end.

Why would we need so much juice for a line haul application?