Isx wont start

[Waterloo]

ECM perhaps? Have someone get in the truck and turnover the motor and you stand out there and give the ECM a good whack with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle and see what happens.

[tree98]

You need a pop tester like the one Rawze linked in his post above. I don't want to de-rail your thread but all isx liner heights should be not less than 14 thou for it to last much past 500K miles. Something to think about after you get your current problem solved.

[Toddmsc]

Tried a pressure sensor off my other running truck. No go.

Put shop air on each individual feed tube and kept return open..no leaks there.

Cranked with return line off head no fuel leaking out. Which tells me injectors arent leaking into return side. If they leaked that much in cylinders I would assume it would start to hydro lock and doesnt. Checked orings for fuel seepage into head..nothing there either.

[Toddmsc]

Pulled pump head... all looked pretty normal. No scoring no abnormal wear, no metal. It does have the updated steel not ceramic.

The only thing i didnt like was quickserve says blow shop air, watch both plungers come up. Passed. Then it says to remove springs and push plunger down with a finger a few times and if it comes back up then it passes. Did a few times and noticed. The more you do it the more one plunger doesnt come back up. One always goes back to it's up posistion the other gets lower and lower everytime you do it. Could it be a bad seal?

[Rawze]

(01-05-2020 )Toddmsc Wrote:  ...
One always goes back to it's up posistion the other gets lower and lower everytime you do it. Could it be a bad seal?

yup, its bad.

[Rawze]

(01-05-2020 )Toddmsc Wrote:  Yes I've done it all without insite so far. 2350s are min of 7 thou max of 14. No two can be a thou and a half off each other.
...

This is not to beat up an anyone here.. it is about learning and bettering ourselves with what we do...

you need to re-think your way of how these engines work,. what is tolerable and what is not.

the red engine maker has problems with liner height as it is. - When re-building an ISX... ALWAYS, ALWAYS ALWAYS -- EVERY TIME -- COUNTER-BORE IT IF IT HAS MORE THAN 400K MILES ON THE BUILD A----AND ALWAYS ALWAYS SET THE LINER HEIGHT TO NO LESS THAN 0.015" AND NO MORE THAN 0.016" --- I DON'T CARE WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS --


If you want a million mile engine.. that is what you have to do Cm870,
CM871, especially on a C<2250,.. AND -- ESPECIALLY ON A 2350!!!

You are now on a forum with people who know these engines far beyond what the factory want you to know about them ... trust me,.. there IS ONLY ONE WAY TO BUILD THESE ENGINE RIGHT,.. AND ANYTHING YOU DO that is even slightly less then what is recommended here,.... YOUR PISSING UP WIND AND NO ONE FROM THIS FORUM WOULD EVER LET YOU TOUCH THEIR ENGINE BECAUSE THEY ALREADY KNOW BETTER AND HAVE BEEN DOWN THAT ROAD!!!



some HARD FACTS/RULES ABOUT THE ISX...

* the HEAD cannot be re-used if a liner dances in the block, or if it blows a head gasket (only happens if a liner moved). It etches into the bottom of the head a few thousandths of an inch,.. and engine will not last long if it is re-used.

* YOU WILL NEVER SEE A HEAD GASKET FAILURE WITHOUT A LINER ISSUE TO GO WITH IT -- SO THIS MEANS IF HEAD GASKET FAILS FOR ANY REASON --- ITS COUNTER-BORE AND NEW OEM-HEAD! - THERE IS NO SAVING THE HEAD -- IT IS A THROW-AWAY ITEM!


* ANY NON-CERTIFIED ORIG HEAD, OR HEAD THAT WAS RE-BUILT/RE-WORKED BY A SHOP (non cummins certified re-machined head) -- WILL ONLY LAST 250K MILES (1/4 engine life) AND HAVE TO BE REPLACED AGAIN... THIS IS FACT,.. AND I HAVE SEEN IT A HUNDRED TIMES OR MORE-- I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD THAT SHOP SAYS THEY DID ON IT! -- THEY ALWAYS ALWAYS FAIL!!!- NOT WORTH THE FEW BUCKS YOU SAVE NOT ONE DAMN BIT!

* USE ONLY OEM BRAND NEW REPLACEMENT HEAD!! - ALSO head is only good for 450k miles for consideration of re-use. -- AFTER THAT, IF IT COMES OFF THE ENGINE -- IT NEEDS REPLACED NO QUESTION ASKED!!

* LETTING HEAD SETTLE OVER NIGHT before re-torque and final torque of head bolts.


* YOU CANNOT ALWAYS FIND ACCURATELY, THE LINER HEIGHT TO FIND A FRETTED LINER --<-- UNLESS IT IS REAL BAD!!!-- THIS IS A MISTAKE EVERY GODDAMN SHOP MAKES !!! - THE LINERS HAVE TO COME OUT AND THE BLOCK DEPTH CHECKED FOR VISUAL SIGNS OF FRETTING ETC.! -- AND SINCE THIS IS THE CASE -- EVERY DAMN ISX THE HEAD COME OFF OF, IF MORE THEN 1/4 LIFESPAN ON IT, OR IF LINERS ARE LESS THAN 0.014" HEIGHT TO BEGIN WITH, -- THE COUNTER-BORE + RAISED TO 0.014" HAS TO BE DONE OR IT WILL NOT LAST A FULL LIFETIME WHEN IT IS PUT BASK TOGETHER!!!!

* THERE ARE SO MANY GODDAMN BAD PROGRAMS AND BAD TUNING SHOPS OUT THERE FOR THE ISX THAT IT IS NOT EVEN SLIGHTLY FUNNY!!-- DON;T TRUST ANYONE!!! -- ANYONE!!!! -- NO MATTER HOW MUCH THEY BRAG.. NO MATTER HOW MUCH THEY CLAIM THEY ARE GOOD AT IT,.. NO MATTER HOW MANY PEOPLE SAY THEY ARE THE BEST!!! -- NO ONE!!-- NOT EVEN THE PEOPLE OF THIS FORUM WHO I PERSONALLY HAVE NOT REVIEWED THEIR WORK!!!!!! --- LEARN AND EDUCATE YOURSELF ON HOW THESE ENGINES SHOULD RUN AND HAVE ANY CUSTOM PROGRAMMIN CHECKED BY MYSELF, MOMMABURT, OR UNILEVERS ON HERE --- I DO THIS FOR FREE FOR ANYONE WHO E-MAILS ME THEIR FILE OUT OF THEIRE ENGINE -- AND NO I DON;T DO CUSTOM TUNING, SO THERE IS NO PROFIT IN IT WHEN I DO THIS FOR THEM!!! HAVE ALL PROGRAMMING VERIFIED OR LOOSE THE ENGINE PREMATURELY -- IT IS SOMEONE'S LIVELIHOOD AND LIFE YOU YOU ARE SCREWING WITH OTHERWISE!


-- READ, READ, and RE-READ everything on this forum!!--- YOU WILL EVENTUALLY COME TO THE SAME EXACT CONCLUSIONS!!! - there are countless numbers of horror stories about these engine, mechanics who think they know how to build one of these things,.. and only suffered as a result. - the OEM is actually the worst of them all!> and smaller shops know even less most of the time. -- IT IS NOT THAT PEOPLE DON'T CARE--- THEY JUST DON;T KNOW ANY BETTER! and then are too quick to argue with you instead of taking a moment to actually learn someting better for what they do.

WATCH and study my engine rebuild series.. i explain a ton of what i have seen and the right, and wrong ways to build these things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdTXWXKu...Zc_5ZwzDiw

some recent related info: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid46498

[Mr Hagg]

Remove line from fuel pump head . Have someone turn engine over see how much fuel is coming out... Should be a good amount. Tighten line and see what happens. Really need to know what command and actual fuel pressure is. Not sure what all they could have dont for it to not start now unless they started tare down and pulled cam gear off. Or maybe cracked cam sensor but should give fault code for it....It should have a very small amount of fuel returning to fuel tank to so maybe its not building pressure...If you ever see alot of return fuel then more than likely you have a fuel injector tube leaking...

[Toddmsc]

Who ever said I installed sleeves less than 14? Bc that surely wasnt something I said. Just bc spec is 7 to 14. Doesnt mean is go install them at 10. 14 15 is where Im always at if im doing sleeves.

That head I just did on other truck told the guy his sleeves dropped causing the head gasket failure. He declined the correct way of fixing it even though they all measured 10. One 9. Which was the leaky cylinder clearly shown in black and white on gasket. You can lead a horse to water....but he is the moron who chooses not to drink it.

No offense here to anyone I joined to help people and be helped with one problem that just baffles me. And somehow this thread has become a pissing match as to what I know and dont know. I dont have anything to prove. I've done enough, I've fixed enough,and everything I've worked on runs flawlessly. Except that last short lived head job but that wasn't my choice.

My truck currently returned from a shop not running. Was brought in running no codes.
If I took it apart, I would not be in the boat I'm in.

[Rawze]

(01-06-2020 )Toddmsc Wrote:  Who ever said I installed sleeves less than 14? Bc that surely wasnt something I said. Just bc spec is 7 to 14. Doesnt mean is go install them at 10. 14 15 is where Im always at if im doing sleeves.

That head I just did on other truck told the guy his sleeves dropped causing the head gasket failure. He declined the correct way of fixing it even though they all measured 10. One 9. Which was the leaky cylinder clearly shown in black and white on gasket. You can lead a horse to water....but he is the moron who chooses not to drink it.

No offence here to anyone I joined to help people and be helped with one problem that just baffles me. And somehow this thread has become a pissing match as to what I know and dont know. I don't have anything to prove. I've done enough, I've fixed enough,and everything I've worked on runs flawlessly. Except that last short lived head job but that wasn't my choice.

My truck currently returned from a shop not running. Was brought in running no codes.
If I took it apart, I would not be in the boat I'm in.

there is no pissing match...this forum is not a democracy ... IT IS A DICTATORSHIP --- either ALWAYS BE DEDICATED TOWARDS DOING THINGS THE ABSOLUTE RIGHT WAYS AS BEST AS SOMEONE CAN OR GET OFF MY FORUM!!!

and if you were dumb enough to let a truck owner tell you that he wants you to take a bunch of shortcuts --- I WOULD HAVE RAN HIM OUT OF MY SHOP IF I HAD ONE!!!-- YOU SHOULD HAVE TOLD HIM THAT YOU AIN'T NO HALF-ARSSE-IT MAN, NOT ONE DAMN BIT, BECAUSE THAT TRUCK WILL END UP IN RAWZE'S DRIVEWAY AND HE WILL PICK APART EVERY GO%DDMAN THING THAT WAS NOT RIGHT AND POST IT ALL OVER HIS FORUM!!!

I DON'T CARE IF YOUR A DRIVER, MECHANIC, FLEET OWNER, DEALS$IT, OR THINK YOUR GOD HIMSELF!!1-- I WON'T TOLERATE IT!!!


... and if you ARE doing things absolutely the right ways, no shortcuts, no guess-work,.. and using a torque wrench on everything,.. then your at the right place to take whatever you have been doing further if need be, SHARE, HELP. ETC... . -- THERE ARE TOO FEW PEOPLE/MECHANICS these days who could give 2 rats#-Arsses about doing things right any more. - that is why i am quick to run most of them off.