X15 chuffing through air cleaners at low rpm on jake brake

[PolishHammer]

Did you do the mechanical and electronic calibrations on the turbo?

[Jakt2016]

(01-29-2024 )PolishHammer Wrote:  Did you do the mechanical and electronic calibrations on the turbo?

The actuator was already mounted on turbo. I called manufacturer and they said it's already calibrated. So I installed and verified calibration passed test on insite.

[PolishHammer]

Is it an Oem turbo? I have seen 90 percent of the aftermarket turbos not mechanically calibrated and or the shaft that runs from the vgt to the body of the turbo slip on the cheep 2 piece shaft they use now. Oem and I still chekc myself to see if it's mechanically in the right spot

[Jakt2016]

(01-30-2024 )PolishHammer Wrote:  Is it an Oem turbo? I have seen 90 percent of the aftermarket turbos not mechanically calibrated and or the shaft that runs from the vgt to the body of the turbo slip on the cheep 2 piece shaft they use now. Oem and I still chekc myself to see if it's mechanically in the right spot

No it's not oem.

[Rawze]

(01-28-2024 )Jakt2016 Wrote:  It makes about 31 to 32 psi. Pulling hard.

I'm not sure exactly on the boost when it starts. Seems the one time I caught it it was about 20 psi. When it started. That's in the 3rd stage.
Imap I put in new 170k ago and cleaned it 60k ago.
The back pressure I put in new 170k ago. But haven't cleaned.
Factory cac.
Turbo is {aftermarket}. Yes I know I should of went cummins. Wish I could have.

== 31,32 psi is ok for that model engine.

== 20-psi during enigne brake is ok for on that model engine.


It could be the turbo itself or some other restriction somewhere.

And just to clarify.. what are you calling 'chuffing'?... and are you sure its the turbo doing this?.

Has anyone checked to ensure the engine passes an injector leak-down test?. - It could be a leaky injector causing the engine brake to stutter like that.
(injector leak test procedure): http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid75483

[Jakt2016]

(01-30-2024 )Rawze Wrote:  == 31,32 psi is ok for that model engine.

== 20-psi during enigne brake is ok for on that model engine.


It could be the turbo itself or some other restriction somewhere.

And just to clarify.. what are you calling 'chuffing'?... and are you sure its the turbo doing this?.

Has anyone checked to ensure the engine passes an injector leak-down test?. - It could be a leaky injector causing the engine brake to stutter like that.
(injector leak test procedure): http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid75483

I just did injector leak down it lost about 300 psi. That's all. {name removed} is sending me a new turbo.

[Rawze]

(01-30-2024 )Jakt2016 Wrote:  ...
I just did injector leak down it lost about 300 psi. That's all. {name removed} is sending me a new turbo.

I looked at the program you sent me. It is a bit dated, but is otherwise not harmful at all. One of the few that i see a year that is not a total butcher job.

If you want to see if it is making too much positive pressure at idle, then you can check it like this...

Rawze Wrote:Remove the IMAP sensor from the manifold without disconnecting the wiring from it. Idle the truck, feather the throttle a few times hard to get everything to settle out, then slide the corner of a sheet of paper over the hole. See if the paper is mostly trying to be sucked into the hole.. or if it is mostly only fluttering up and down.. or if it is being mostly blown away from the hole.

- If it is being sucked in, the turbo is not spinning fast enough at idle, needs to be adjusted up,.. if it's being blown mostly away, the turbo positioning at idle can stand to be relaxed a bit, and fluttering only then the turbo is about where it need to be at idle, etc.

ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid77395

[Jakt2016]

Ok Thank you.. I will give that a try.

[Colter]

Everyone is correct that this happens with bad tunes when the VGT vanes start to deform and get hung up on the guide plate.

I would point to the turbo as the issue, aftermarket turbo's here are very common. With a good program and weak or odd jakes it is the issue 95% of the time. The chuffing your getting is most likely the turbo hanging up and getting stuck, the build up of back pressure chuffs back through the engine and out the air cleaners. Overtime it will get worse and usually your boost under load begins to drop as the issues continue.

It's a quality or assembly issue in the turbo, you do save money with aftermarket however you will have issues much earlier then you should or right away. Swapping the turbo (as you stated) is the first thing to try, I wouldn't necessarily recommend replacing right off the hop but if they'll exchange it or some shops carry test turbos it'd be nice to confirm before dropping money on a new one.