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Waterloo

(10-10-2017 )Junjun88 Wrote:
(10-10-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: Sta-Lube GL-5 https://amzn.to/2U2o6Mc

You should use say 1/4-1/2 gallon. I would say 1/4 gal. You do know about the fuel pump on that motor? As far as tuning it, Mr Hagg or Gearhead, where are you located?

You mean the recall?? If its the recall i went by the dealer and checked by vin number and thank God am not one of those am located in FL what about unilevers??

Yes on Unilever, but he is up in the Great White North in Canada. If you are in Florida, I would call Mr Hagg and make an appointment. He is just South of Atlanta. As far as the fuel pump, the recall ended quite awhile ago, but even with the new plungers and tappets the pumps are still failing and taking out motors. They are now a regular maintenance issue, most are recommending around 300,000-400,000 miles to remove and rebuild. Damn ticking time bomb that needs to be monitored, and a criminal act if you ask me.

Hammerhead

(10-11-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: Yes on Unilever, but he is up in the Great White North in Canada. If you are in Florida, I would call Mr Hagg and make an appointment. He is just South of Atlanta. As far as the fuel pump, the recall ended quite awhile ago, but even with the new plungers and tappets the pumps are still failing and taking out motors. They are now a regular maintenance issue, most are recommending around 300,000-400,000 miles to remove and rebuild. Damn ticking time bomb that needs to be monitored, and a criminal act if you ask me.

Agreed with Waterloo, if you're not the rip it apart and get in there to make damn sure type, then get it up to Mr Hagg ASAP.
The XPI fuel pump should terrify you, be very diligent about it or it will sneak up and bite you in the backside...

strydtrans1

I see this as true. My dad use to say when your car starts getting up there in miles you want to use a heavier oil. Why wouldn't you start doing the same thing with your truck!? Curious would you do this from the get go on a brand new truck?

Hammerhead

(01-03-2018 )strydtrans1 Wrote: I see this as true. My dad use to say when your car starts getting up there in miles you want to use a heavier oil. Why wouldn't you start doing the same thing with your truck!? Curious would you do this from the get go on a brand new truck?

I think you need to reread the article, the explanation is in there...
It is because the EPA is making the oil manufacturers lower/remove/eliminate the key additives from engine oil. They have not yet started to do that on gear oil because of two reasons;
1) Gear oil isn't used in the crankcase, therefore eliminating the risk of the additives being burned and "contaminating" the atmosphere
2) Gear oil isn't changed on a regular basis like engine oil because the areas it's being used in aren't full of soot, combustion gasses, etc. so it has a longer life, thus low volumes in recycle depots hasn't caught their attention yet

Rawze

If someone made a readily avail. 90 or 110 wt diesel engine oil with 1440 zinc and the other goodies they stripped out of the crap they supply these days, I would might prefer a gallon of that as an additive that instead of the gear lube. Then again, I like what the small amount of PE additives do too though... I would be up in the air on that decision.

Of course, no one needs to take my word for any of this,.. it is all at someone's own risk. I say that because there is always that nice collection of internet rambo's (trolling) "oil experts" who take blurbs from 15 different articles out of context and claim it is going to destroy my engine. they make claims of "alkaline mixing with acidic" oils that lead to crud buildup of some kind, acid that eats all the various weaker types of metals, and about a thousand other out of context points too.

(BTW: I did look into this a long time ago and chose gear oils that were not rated high acidic like the sta-lube and super-tech specifically)...

According to "them", the situation is worse when heat is applied ... soo .... where is this evidence?? -- Surely it would have been apparent where there is the most heat applied to the engine oil --- The piston rings themselves --- Surely they would have been the place to spot all this problems no?. --- Anyone is welcome to re-watch the tear-down videos I made again and be their own judge.

- For all those rambo's,... They are welcome to come over and show me the evidence of their claims,... surely after a million miles, there will be a whopping amount of obvious evidence of these problems by now ... I am still waiting.

- It is no different than all the crap grief Internet Rambo claims about me running down the roads at highway speeds with my tranny in neutral most of its whole life + shifting in/out of gear 50-200 + times per day. According to the all-mighty internet rambo crowd,.. my tranny should have failed about 200 times over by now. In reality, having it torn down for the very first time in 1.13 million miles and inspected thoroughly revealed LESS wear than most trannies of that age by about 1/3 or more. - I even have a 5-speed toyota pick-up truck and a ford explorer (5-speed as well) that I have shifted that way THAT I HAVE HAD FOR 17+ YEARS and they both drive and shift like a champ with zero issues and zero tranny problems. if fact, every vehicle I own, I have always driven them that way their whole lives and have never seen a negative effect of driving a vehicle in neutral on any of them. That is unless you consider longer engine and tranny life a negative effect I suppose.

-- I know,.. Perhaps the fairy pixel alignment of mars and the moon just happens to be above my truck at all times over the last million miles making its tranny and engine components last longer out of sheer coincidence... Maybe my truckhad less wear in it after doing such nonsense damaging things like running in neutral and using gear lube because of some unknown cosmic force special to my situation? -- Should I expect to see a star wars episode on my truck in the future too?

- sorry, but I am just doing what works to make me a higher LONG TERM PROFIT based mostly on personal experience described above in previous post(s) -- The key and focus being "LONG TERM PROFIT". - will it work for anyone else? -- I can't say that. Maybe they don;t use their truck the same ways,.. but it worked for me, so that is what I do out of my own sheer gleeful ignorance as i deposit my pay in the bank week after week, month after month, and year after year. At this point, it would not even matter if there was a negative consequence for such debauchery on my part,.. it has paid off and I will smile, fix what is wrong, and repeat the pattern that has worked for me so far so that it can live another million before worrying about it again.

Some of the things I have tried have definitely lead to some negative long term consequences (using waterless coolant over a 600k mile span is one of those nightmares), and when I see such things then I will be the first to spout it off so that others can learn by it. I try things based on observation as much as science and have the financial breathing room to do so because I am successful in my own truck ownership. Someone like me is quite often not satisfied with the norm sometimes when there could be potential to have a more positive outcome. i have the means to try new stuff, so I do so at my own peril. Sharing the "result so far" is all I can provide to anyone when asked. I just try my best NOT to do things blindly, or without testing and close observation of possible side-effects. really, that is all anyone can do.

- I am also not a complete moron and unwilling to take suggestion or those "hey that may not work" theories, so yes,.. I watch very closely for those things someone claims will go wrong or change when I try something new, especially if someone has mentioned it and/or there is some evidence somewhere already. The trouble much of the time any more though is that there is a LOT of false, skewed, extremist information on the internet and it should all be taken with a grain of salt. This include what I say too because at the end of the day, I am full of s#$it just like the next guy.

Skman

I bought a pail of BOSS GL-5 80/90 gear lube today at NAPA. But when I got home....I noticed it has Limited Slip Additive added to it.
Not sure if I should return this and look for something else before doing my oil change.
Also, I have a de-mandated 2013 ISX so I wasnt sure if it mattered if I grabbed GL-5 or if I should keep searching for GL-4? Seems hard to find in Canada...

Rawze

(01-19-2018 )Skman Wrote: I bought a pail of BOSS GL-5 80/90 gear lube today at NAPA. But when I got home....I noticed it has Limited Slip Additive added to it.
Not sure if I should return this and look for something else before doing my oil change.
Also, I have a de-mandated 2013 ISX so I wasnt sure if it mattered if I grabbed GL-5 or if I should keep searching for GL-4? Seems hard to find in Canada...

You could always send in a sample to a lab and see what additives it has.

bossboy2

(08-11-2017 )RStewart Wrote:
(08-11-2017 )Waterloo Wrote:
(08-11-2017 )RStewart Wrote: This is great info. I also read the thread about the oil bypass. I was interested in the bypass & extended drain intervals. After reading these two threads I've decided to go ahead with the bypass but keep my regular interval. I have a 2011 Freightliner Cascadia with a DD15 in it. Manufacturers recommends 10w30 oil changed every 50k miles. I've been running 10w30 Delo 400 synthetic blend & I change it every 30k miles. I also thought oil sampling was a great tool but now I'm thinking just sampling for info but changing the oil every 15k-20k miles.

I'm really interested in what weight of oil you use & what gear oil you add. This really makes sense to me.

I run a 2008 ISX, and if I had your motor, I would be running regular Rotella dino in it, don't waste your money on synthetic. As far as gear oil, Rawze did a write uRStewart, have you started this yet? If so, have you noticed any differences?p on this regarding the newer SCR motors and recommended a GL-5 lube over the GL-4 many of us are running in our none SCR motors. I would also recommend oil change intervals of 15,000 miles along with a good oil by pass system if you keep the mandate. No oil bypass, I would be changing oil every 12,000 miles. That soot will eat your motor alive, synthetic or not.

Cool. Thanks. I saw where he recommended the GL-5, just wasn't sure if there was a specific brand.

RSTEWART, have you started this program yet? If so, have you noticed any differences? I'm currently in the process of establishing a good base of oil samples. I currently have four. Next oil change I'll be adding the gear lube.

DLC

As encouraged on this forum I have done my own due diligence and done some more research on the subject.

1. I remember reading in the TDR magazine years back about the newer Diesel engine oil specifications being inferior to older ones because of the removal of the ZDDP/ZDTP anti-wear additives. This was done in 2007 to accommodate the addition of DPFs. Zinc in the additive shortens the life of the DPF.

2. Still somewhat curious about adding gear oil I sought just to find an additive to add to my oil. Just add the stuff I need not a type of oil that may not work perfectly in my engine. ( I have a DT466E with HEUI injection improper oil tends to foam and such)
Yes you can buy several different brands of Zinc additives including Pukas ( more $ on marketing than R and D I suspect). They are not cheap. You need to add a lot of the tiny bottles to our large engines to get enough.

3. I also found information that the zinc/phosphorus additives can harm aquatic life. This was another reason for their removal from gas and Diesel engine oil. Proper disposal is a must.

4. It has been mentioned that a GL-4 oil would possibly be a better choice than a GL-5as it will not harm brass or copper components in an engine. I have found info that newer GL-5s may not cause trouble. I would stick to tracking down a GL-4 IMHO to be on the safe side.

5. If one needs to have their mandate intact specifically the DPF I would be mindful of its operation. Zinc can harm it. Also do not use a 2-stroke engine oil (some have zinc in them) as a fuel additive with a DPF.

Please feel free to check up on what I have added.

I'm off to find a good source of GL-4 gear oil to add to my several pre 2007 Diesel engines...