2014 isx vibration

[race7820000]

Ok.... just left cummins...they don't want to mess with timing till put of warenty.

Unfortunately I didn't have a trailer but we Bob tailed and hooked computer up.

Cut out the injectors one by one and they sounded the same.

The boost was around 30 psi Guy said under full throttle in 10th gear.

The dpf does its thing every 100 hours and the back pressure or whatever u call it on it was around 1.3, the same screen showed exhaust engine Temps to be around 550, but I have no clue if that's durning the dpf or what

Guy said Motor sounds noisey and he can feel vibration but to bring truck back with a loaded trailer.

[Rawze]

Stomping the accelerator and watching boost with no load on it as it accelerates will tell you very little. Boost needs to be checked under max torque load and about 1400 RPM or more. On a 2350, it should not exceed 32-33 PSI or so.

you don't need any kind of trailer,.. engine fully warmed up, just put it in 9th, hold the accelerator hard to the floor without letting up, and ride the brakes until it reaches 100% load in insite while watching boost too. Easy as pie to check but you have to remember it is delayed several seconds if your looking at it in insite. Engine boost reading in the ECM is heavily delayed compared to an actual gauge -- about 3 seconds or so typically as it is climbing.

I would trust the pyro reading in insite about as far as I could trust a politician. It is 100% calculated and there is no sensor for it at all. I have seen it read 1400 when the actual EGT's was only 850 or so, and i have seen it read 500 when they were 900. Any one of the several sensors in the engine including fuel temp, egr temp, imap, bp sensor, turbo intake sensor, Delta-P etc. will throw it off if they are not VERY accurate, and they hardly ever are after they have some age on them. How much actual exhaust flow makes a big difference in pyro temps too, and the calculated value it blindly spews out does not compensate for that very well at all.

I am still not 100% convinced it is a timing or boost issue, but it is a good best bet at this point based on what you are posting here. All that wasted time clearly points it into that direction. Because of this, it must be eliminated to move forward, and no one you have been in contact with so far with it has seemed to even touch on it, as they apparently have no clue how to,..-- or how the engine actually operates outside of what they have been brainwashed to believe by the very limited training they get from the engine maker.

So far, there has been no one that has even come close to properly testing for it or proving it plus or minus at all, but sheer blind guessing and parts changing that is doing nothing but continuing to waste time and money. Instead of letting them monkey around in circles with loose, limited data that is mostly irrelevant, you could have installed by now an actual non-computerized pyro and boost gauge that do not have such delay etc. to help the situation, and/or could have driven it to someone who actually knows what is going on inside that thing.

- It is absolutely staggering how many settings there are in the computer. It is upwards of more than 25,000 settings and adjustments alone. That Insite software they use is not only heavily delayed, but will only show less than a fraction of 1% of the more than 12,000 live things that can be monitored to see what is actually going on. Hell, they can't even monitor the very important stuff like actual final timing, live fuel flow into the cylinders, live charge flow error, the multitude of emissions corrections, live changing fuel temp, pressure, etc. -- live timing and injection offsets, and and a whole lot of other things that the engine maker purposefully does not want them to be able to see. -- I.E. -- blind mice, stumbling in around completely in the dark for that piece of cheese.

Come to think of it, are all the injector trims correct? if they are not, it can and will cause problems like you are describing. did they even check for that? or mention it? -- Hell, I have seen some places so dumb, they will tell you it does not matter, or that they do not exist.

All the guidance you are getting on this forum here by myself and others is not just opinion. It is from people who actually understand that thing in all its glory inside and out far beyond any normal person or mechanic would care to know. When it comes to what is going on inside its brain to see what the actual causes are for what you are describing, it will take someone who can see into it on the level I have described above. Forum members Unilevers, Gearhead, and Myself are all full capable of such things easily enough. It is likely going to take moving the factory adjustments around in a safe manner to see how it changes or eliminates the problem. That is the next logical step, and it has nothing to do with it failing emissions standards if that is your concern. Eliminating the possibility of too low final CA and ensuring the engine is not slowly beating itself to death internally should be your next concern. After that, you can make a better informed decision on what to do about it, or to continue further to find the causes if it does turn out to be that.

The dealer is not about to do this,.. they do not even have the ability, nonetheless know how to do it safely. BEFORE resorting to such measures though,.. the boost must be still be checked with an actual gauge at max torque, like I mentioned early on in this thread. After ensuring it is not that, the injection mapping can be rolled a bit to see if the vibration goes away under heavy load. That way you can be at least assured it is not beating up on the crank and hammering out the bearings slowly to a painful pre-mature death due to bad injection offsetting by the emissions system or some other manager that is not happy.

[race7820000]

Were do you live? I'll be there! Lol

Peterbilt had to order the boost gauge, they said it will plug into the factory harness behind the dash or should I not trust that either? I'm going to pick up a Pyro gauge when the boost gauge gets in.

I tried 2 differnt cummins in mean time. There the ones that rode with me.

I am from the quad city area, Moline illinois

I get what ur saying about taking it to someone that knows what there doing, I didn't go to same cummins I went to 2 different ones today in hopes that someone would be smarter than the computer. I was wrong. (So that's 3 total different cummins that can't help me)

I got home took off the engine belt, the alternator bearing is going out as it has play in it. Other than that every thing is tight.

If you search the Internet as I did and ran across you site no one ever follows through with what the solution to the problem was.
Not your website I'm talking in general

I read everything everyone posts on this thread and take it into advisement, but I don't have a computer to mess with programing.So when I go to the powers that be and they look at me like I'm retarded there is not much I can do.

I'm on the same page as you, hell I would still order those magic engine pills from jc whittney and try them if they still sold them.

I will get the gauges installed this weekend.

Thanks for the help. I genuinely mean that.

[Rawze]

Although people do send links to stuff they buy and recommend to others, i allow it within reason as long as it is not an advertising ploy.

No one is allowed to try to sell anything on here, I do not allow it outside of the goolge ads that I have no control over at the bottom of the page. This forum as about helping others as best possible. Most everything I do for people is for free as well, I just do not have the time to work on everyones truck all day every day. I would perhaps take Unilevers up on his offer, or if you can get it to Atlanta, you can stop by and have it checked out by myself, mess with it a bit, and I can at least drive it to see exactly what you are talking about. I will PM you my number.

[Rawze]

If I had a choice, i would get a gauge off amazon for about $50 bucks or so, but factory boost gauge is better than nothing. it would be my second choice.

[snailexpress]

(03-29-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  If I had a choice, i would get a gauge off amazon for about $50 bucks or so, but factory boost gauge is better than nothing. it would be my second choice.

Factory boost gauge share same signal from ECM. If sensor is bad it foolish everything. Nothing better then old manometer like you have youtubed
You can see turbo response in real time. How boost is rising up how it down.

[Rawze]

Talked to him today, he has boost gauge now. It is only peaking about 32 psi. That is good for 2350 and now he knows it is not his problem.

[snailexpress]

(03-31-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  Talked to him today, he has boost gauge now. It is only peaking about 32 psi. That is good for 2350 and now he knows it is not his problem.

Good to know what type vibration he has. Is it high frequency or somehow related with road speed. If it's high frequency like bzzzzzzzz vibration probably fuel pump or power steering pump or their gear.

[race7820000]

(03-31-2016 )snailexpress Wrote:  

(03-31-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  Talked to him today, he has boost gauge now. It is only peaking about 32 psi. That is good for 2350 and now he knows it is not his problem.

Good to know what type vibration he has. Is it high frequency or somehow related with road speed. If it's high frequency like bzzzzzzzz vibration probably fuel pump or power steering pump or their gear.

I'm bad at sound effects but it starts out as a buzz up can feel on pedal,floor,steering wheel,shifter

But then it starts to shake like a out if Balance washing machine until u let off throttle then it goes away only to come back as soon as u press down on pedal again. If ur pulling a load

Then when ur at crusing speed and there's almost no throttle it sounds like there is a flat spot in a front tire, u can feel the noise if that makes sense?