My Pete rebuild

[Rawze]

(07-22-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
Has anyone found a solution for the OCD people working on these things? Call me crazy, but I really want to look into some kind of conduit for these areas.

do an Amazon search for "raceway duct with cover".

[Nostalgic]

(07-22-2018 )Rawze Wrote:  

(07-22-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
Has anyone found a solution for the OCD people working on these things? Call me crazy, but I really want to look into some kind of conduit for these areas.

do an Amazon search for "raceway duct with cover".

I ruled those out due to the fact they'd collect salt and grit. There's a lot of home runs bundled in that area around the starter, and they bug me haha. I think if I can separate out the fuel and air lines from electrical, and run one group along the bottom of the rail, and the other along the top, it should clean things up a bit. Maybe some short runs of polished stainless tubing or...? I like simple and clean, something that's hard to pull off with today's modern vehicles. But, for example, the power from the battery to the ECM was looped between the block and the starter, with a junction plug just laying on the starter. Who thought that was a good idea? Everything is built and designed around ease and time savings on the assembly line.


Looking back under the cab, I know that I want to pressurize the system before anything goes back in and check all of the air line fittings. Some would be a bear to access with the transmission and engine in the way. I need to do some homework on air systems. It's a maze under there.

I did pull the rod cap and bearings. No intrusion behind the bearing, but I cleaned everything up again, wiped it down with acetone and didn't go crazy with the lube this time.

They say torque plus angle is more accurate for final clamping force of a bolt, but you know, all 4 bolts flashed 106 ft lbs @ 60 degrees? I've had head bolts that displayed 10 lb variances on final angles, but there's no crush factor in a rod cap. Just an observation, I'm curious if the next 20 will be the same.

[Nostalgic]

Picked up an expensive box today, among other things, the updated piston cooling nozzles.

[Nostalgic]

I kept looking at the rods that came with my ebay block, and just didn't like the dings on them or the fact that the oil holes didn't line up in the bushings, so I ordered 3 recon rods from Cummins. Have to say, other than having new wrist pin bushings, mine looked a lot nicer and the rod bolts with them were almost all stretched to the limit. Is there such a thing as a recon part that's actually done with a little pride?

Long head bolts, with doubled up wrist pins worked good to keep the liners from popping out when I spun the crank.



Oh well, everything is in, engine is back to horizontal, and my roll-of-the-dice ebay flywheel housing runs out good and I get to haul my freshly painted one to the scrap yard.



Will pull my housing off one final time, and install new seal. Not sure if I'll put it in the truck before I mount the front cover or not, but I'll have to close shop for a few days until it's buttoned up completely. Not pushing this thing out in the weather half assembled.

[Nostalgic]

I can't count how many times I've heard diesel mechanics say that they hate (or won't) work on autos. I can say that without a doubt, I'm the opposite. As much as I hate VW's maze of nazi engineering, I'd rather diagnose and repair those every single day than have to do this 6 days a week lol.

I took advice from a respected mechanic that he adds a little sealant on the clutch housing gasket - BAD. If it wasn't for my OCD paranoia that caused me to pull it off (again), I would have had a nasty leak in no time. Despite the fact that I put a VERY small film around the oil port section, it was enough that when torqued down, it dislodged and moved the rubber gasket inwards on the tight radius. I'd take a picture, but I may have thrown the gasket a couple of times and then crumpled it up like a pop can lol.

I thought by this point, the feel goods would start as I'm on the home stretch of assembly, but I'm still waiting.



In the meantime, I've been looking at this ugly heat exchanger...



I was going to go with an air cooler, but I would want solid lines running the rail up to the radiator. I wish they made Nicopp lines bigger than 3/8, but for the price of a coil of stainless, and all of the fittings, I'm just going to stick with the liquid cooler and plan on changing it out at 4-500k.

[pearce trucking]

That tranny cooler is the same one I have. I replaced it and painted the new one. Now that I'm doing the motor, I had to pull the transmission. I'm gonna rebuild it while it's out. I replaced all my hoses with blue silicone, and clamps with stainless constant torque style. They say those coolers are transmission killers because they can fill your tranny with coolant if you have a leak. Mine had 697000 on it before I replaced it, so I'll be comfortable with the new one for a while anyway.

[Nostalgic]

This one put around 3? Pints of coolant in the trans. It probably happened while it's been sitting the last 3-4 years. I plan to cut it open to see exactly where it failed. I like the heat exchanger idea since it's a more uniform, consistent temp.

[Rawze]

I have seen a lot of failures and ruined trannies due to those heat exchangers that use coolant. Unless there is a specific reason to use one (regular extreme environments, extreme duty operations, etc.. that may require one) ... I usually tell people to get rid of those type of tranny coolers and replace them with an air-cooled one. The junkyard (kerns) in Atlanta,GA here has an air-cool conversion kit that bolts right to the back of the tranny that works very well for people hauling 80,000 lb freight in highway applicatins. No need to run hoses up to the front of the truck... or it can be mounted up to the front w longer lines if better cooling is needed.

   

Tags:

tranny cooler, tranny air cooler, tranny cooling, kerns tranny cooler, tranny cooler, transmission cooler

[same101us]

Has anybody ever heard of balancing the rods and making them weigh all the same?