Helping JimT out with an inframe ...

[JimT]

(08-27-2020 )Agentspd Wrote:  Does it have the updated oil filter bypass?

What updated oil filter bypass are you taking about?

For the 2250/2350 they didn't change anything about the oil circuit for the fuel pump. It gets/returns oil through the front gear housing. The X15 pump has the oil isolated, but it's not interchangeable with the older pumps.

[redbeard]

(08-27-2020 )JimT Wrote:  

(08-27-2020 )Agentspd Wrote:  Does it have the updated oil filter bypass?

What updated oil filter bypass are you taking about?

For the 2250/2350 they didn't change anything about the oil circuit for the fuel pump. It gets/returns oil through the front gear housing. The X15 pump has the oil isolated, but it's not interchangeable with the older pumps.

It’s a valve located inside the oil filter housing. If it was updated by a real tech, it should have white paint on it indicating it was upgraded.
As far as I’m concerned, it was a sham to get out of recalling all the ceramic plungers that were destroying engines left and right and get them just past the warranty period.

[Rawze]

(08-27-2020 )JimT Wrote:  

(08-27-2020 )Agentspd Wrote:  Does it have the updated oil filter bypass?

What updated oil filter bypass are you taking about?

For the 2250/2350 they didn't change anything about the oil circuit for the fuel pump. It gets/returns oil through the front gear housing. The X15 pump has the oil isolated, but it's not interchangeable with the older pumps.

this is what he was referring to...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid15246

[Agentspd]

I personally think that the old type bypass always did release pressure too easily. It just took some real damaging material to push it into the spotlight.

[JimT]

Ah. Yeah, there's a paint mark on mine. Didn't realize that was a bypass valve there or that it was updated at some point.

I agree with redbeard, based on the way the oil circulates through the fuel pump and back into the engine, I don't see how an update to the bypass would help with debris from the pump. Only real benefit is that it's more likely to get deposited in the filter, when it flows through there.

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Not too much progress today. Painted some parts, cleaned up a ton of oil/dirt/grime build-up around the fuel pump area (so I don't contaminate anything when I install the new pump), went out to pick up some more minor parts. Spent 3 hours trying to install a damn P-clip on an updated fuel line for the new fuel pump. I'd like to bitch slap the "engineer" who decided to locate the p-clip in the most physically inaccessible location ever. Can't even get my fingers into the tiny cavity and of course the capscrew just won't angle the right way to go through the p-clip and into the block. Eventually gave up. Maybe I'll try again after I get the new pump installed tomorrow.

Don't have any pictures of it, but the area in the front structure where the gear for the fuel pump sits is scraped up really good, all the way around. Must have had some good sized debris come out of the pump and get ground down through the gear in the lower front gear housing. The teeth on the gear from the old fuel pump showed some minor signs of damage too, but luckily no other gears in the front housing show any signs of damage.

Goal for tomorrow is to get the new fuel pump installed, oil cooler replaced and the bottom end finished up (torque the piston rods, install new oil pump, piston cooling nozzles and stiffener plate). Maybe install the new head if there's enough time. Still need to finish sanding down the rust and peeling paint on the oil pan, coroseal, por-15 and then probably hit it with a nice coat of red. Much easier to do it now while it's off and not working upside down.

[snailexpress]

Some tips regarding fuel pump installation.
Fuel pump timing will put one plunger in TDC. Very unstable point.
To prevent gear jump out of timing use two bolts 2.5 - 3 inches longer then original.
Install pump on two upper long bolts, check timing, slide pump into housing. Secure pump with bottom bolt. Remove one by one long bolts and install original.

[Waterloo]

Your oil pan, get that grinder and grind it down to bare metal, Por-15 and a can of Cummins red paint. Several coats over several days of the paint. Mine is still like new after two or three winters... These pans rust, it is worth a few bucks to go the extra mile with the Cummins paint, expensive, but effective. It is not the paint you get at Home Depot.

[Rawze]

I just finally replaced mine with a brand new one (oem oil pan) this week.

I roughed it up and put on ...

* 2 coats of correseal.
* 2 thick coats of por-15.
* Then 2 thick coats of flex-seal (the paint-can version that is much better and thicker than the spray version).

Like Waterloo said .. It took a couple days to get it all on there and to wait for drying between coats. I also put a thin bead of clear silicone in the joints for the drain plugs where they meet the pan and let it dry before painting it so that they did not get welded to the pan by the por-15 before starting the project.


That thing is tough as nails and has a rubber coating that will take a decent impact from road debris if needed. - With all that on it, the thing would likely survive sitting on the bottom of the ocean for a few dozen years, lol.

-- I also am trying something new for the oil pan gasket. Instead of putting permatex or ultra-grey in the 4 corners where the block meets the front and rear housings that mate with the oil pan gasket ... i am trying out using a thin layer of that thick, pasty plumbers thread sealant instead. The thought process is that with the plumbers sealant instead of silicone, the pan gasket can be re-used and not get destroyed if i want to take the pan off it again. That pan gasket is expensive, so if this works out, then the gasket can be re-used easily without the silicone that would normally harm it in the 4 corners of the block. I also am only torquing the bolts to about 36 ft-lbs to reduce gasket distortion and to prevent the threads from weakening in the aluminum housings front and rear. I will keep a close eye on it to see if there are any leaks in the future. This was done with the consideration that the crank case filter is drilled out so there really should be no buildup of higher pressures any more on the gasket any ways.

I also installed a very strong, massive ring-magnet in the forward part/bottom of the inside of the pan a bit away from the drain plugs. Time will tell if this was ok to do or not, I am thiniking this is a good thing.

.. My engine does not have a common rail pump .. but I know if I owned one of those engines with the fuel pump of death, I would want to at least have a powerful magnet in the oil pan to at least catch some of the shavings in case my pump grenaded. It may not catch it all, but may save it from a lot of the circulating destruction.

[Waterloo]

Good idea on the plumbers sealant... And yes, those gaskets are expensive. I bought two, I know.